YotaJunky

Sheesh,

My ride at about 55 mph and over was wobbly, just lots of vibration. After having read a number of threads about overtightened lug nuts, I rotated all 4 tires and retorqued them. The front ones were so tight that I had to kick the lug wrench supplied with the truck very, very hard before they would even loosen up. Anyway, the vibration was eliminated after retorquing all the nuts correctly to 100 ft-lbs.

I put some anti-seize compound on the nuts before reinstalling them. Does anyone know if that's ok or will it somehow compromise the tightness?

Troy

jimbo74

normally it is advised to not put on antiseize as this reduces the effectiveness of the torque and gives a false torque reading if not properly done... some even say its supposed to never be done... i used to work in the tire industry and it was commonplace to use antiseize, only if there was a bad problem with the studs or nuts being really rusty to avoid further issue, however if everything was in good condtion to begin with you are not supposed to put anti seize on... its actually a very controversial issue in the auto world. and i m sure you will get very differnt opinions on it

YotaJunky

Hmmm,

Thanks for the input. The nuts and studs were in good condition, no sign of rust. I know my owner's manual recommended torquing between about 65 to 80 ft-lbs. I also heard that steel rims should be torqued to 100 ft-lbs. I went for the 100lbs.

Is there any documentation out there which supports the idea of not using antiseize on lug nuts/bolts? Also, you indicated that there is a "right" way to torque them if antiseize is used. Would you elaborate on the "right" way?

TIA, Troy

YotaJunky

Yikes,

I've been reading threads on other forums and they specify that if antiseize is used, the torque value should be about 25% less than the recommended torque. I'll do them again tomorrow...

jimbo74

the right way isnt something htat i can tell you about its jsut something thats learned and its not the way of torqueing it, its the amount of antisieze.... when you apply antiseize most people just glop it on and tighten, this is wrong, because what happens is the nut bottoms out on the stud against the rim, but has a false reading and is not tight because of hydralic pressure that the extra goop just provided, it doesnt compress like air does and the goop will leave a big pool that the nut cannot tighten against properly and give you a false torque reading.. meaning it will be undertorqued eventhough the torque wrnech says its good... you want an almost tranlucent coating on the threads of the stud if anything when you use antiseize... there is tons of stuff online about the antiseize useage or oil or anyhting otehr than a dry stud... fyi torque values are provided by the manufacturer for stock rims on a stock vehicle with dry nuts and studs....

YotaJunky

Thanks again jimabena74. I'll do some due diligence.

Troy

leebee

if you have steel or chrome wheels, you 'shouldnt' have an issue with wheels sticking to the rotors/drums. the alloy wheels seem to heat weld themselves to the rotors/drums. i took a brass scrub brush and cleaned up the rotors and drums then painted a light coating of anti-seize on the face and threads. i used the same brush to clean up the mating surfaces on the alloy wheels and painted another light coat of anti-seize on them.

i check my lug nuts once a month for proper torque and i have had no problems removing the wheels since cleaning and coating. previously, i had to take a sledge and 2x6 to beat the wheels off due to them heat welding in place. as jim stated, a light coating is best as a little goes a long way.

lee

YotaJunky

What torque value did you tighten them at with the antiseize compound applied?

leebee

i have mine torqued to 85 ft/lbs for the alloys. check them at least once a month, it only takes a few minutes and it gets you in the habit of doing a quick inspection that otherwise you wouldnt do. dont rely on anyone else to check the little things on your rig, ie: tire guys, mechanic, pump jockeys. get a chiltons or hayes manual or look around on here for someone that has an fsm, see if they will send you a copy. it may look daunting when you try your first repair job, read all you can, search on here, pick other members brains, ask the parts guys or techs at the stealer for info on stuff you want to do. then, take your time and try to have a buddy that is mechanically inclined help you. nothing feels better than completing a repair with your own two hands, even if its doing the rear diff breather extension or the air box mod!

lee

YotaJunky

You make good sense to me lee, thanks for the helping hand.

leebee

no worries mate, there are very knowledgeable members on here that are willing to help. i am fortunate in having a brother in law that is very handy with cars and trucks, he has helped me on a number of projects that i wouldnt have attempted on my own. check and see who lives near you, ask them if they can help you do some minor mods to get your hands dirty and learn. offer to help someone else, even if its just handing them wrenches. ask plenty of questions and get dirty! the folks on here are top notch, you are in good hands.

lee

YotaJunky

awesome ideas!! Thanks again.