tkcmkerch

I have a 2001 Sequoia Limited, and need to change the front, and maybe read brake pads. Does anyone have instructions on doing this, or a link?

Thanks!

Mohamed

Well I can try to explain it but without pictures, it might be a little hard.

Basically the Tundra and Sequoia are a 4 piston caliper design (meaning two pistons on each side of the caliper) on the front and the Sequioa has a one piston caliper in the rear. Obviously, the simple includes loosen wheel lug nuts, jack your Sequoia up, remove wheel lugs, then front wheels. I would recommend work one side at a time to use other side as reference.

Next step depends on what kinda of tools you have which would be to compress the caliper in their bore to make room for new pad. The guys in my brakes class where real messy and didn't care to take some fluid out of the master cylinder, but do yourself a favor and take an old turkey baster and suck a good amount of fluid out and dispose of it properly (2/3 is a good amount). If you don't, brake fluid will splurt out of the master cylinder as you press in the pistons in the calipers.

Look at the top of the caliper, it should be open try to use a plier and squeeze the pads to kinda help press the pistons back into their bore (both sides of the caliper).

The pads are attached in place with a sliding pin ontop and a retaining clip on the side to hold the pins in place. Take out the clip out of the sliding pins. Next there is an anti-rattle spring ontop of the caliper. Carefully remove this, taking note to memorize how it was orginially in place (the ends of the spring will fit into tiny holes on the sides of the top of the caliper). After the spring is removed, the pads should just be able to come out the top, try wiggling them to side and wiggle them out if they don't slide out.

Now you want to press the pistons even more so that they are all the way back in their bore. I personally would take the large pliers and try to squeeze the pistons back (some people stick a large pry bar to squeeze the pistons back but you risk scoring your rotor this way). Work each piston one at a time and make sure the piston is ALL the way back, you won't have enough room if they are not.

At this point, you have two choices, if you want, you can remove one of the caliper bolts (bottom one) and lift caliper up to make room to remove the rotor off and take it to a Kragen's or Chuck's or whatever they call it in your state and have them resurface the rotors for $10.

Or if you are not going to remove the rotor, after you take out the old pads, take your new pads and grease the back of the pad with "anti-squeal" compound (this stuff does work!) and then put on the shim (either a new or the old one will work).

Carefully slide the pads back into place and put the sliding pins in place and then the anti-rattle spring (this might be a b*tch to put back in, but be patient). Afterwards attach your retaining clip to the sliding pins and put the wheel on and lugs. Retorque wheel lugs to 83 ft-lbs.

Work other side the same way and after you are done, get in your vehicle and pump the brake pedal a few times to seat the pistons against the back of the caliper. After this step is done, then I recommend bleeding your brakes. Make sure you fill your MC with fresh fluid. Work your way from the passenger rear bleeder screw, to driver's side rear bleeder screw, then the front passenger, then front driver. Make sure you check the Master cylinder level every so often so you don't go bone dry on that guy.

Rear is very similar but easier, I will explain a bit later, but I gotta do some shopping right now.

Good luck!

tkcmkerch

Thank you so much for the great advice!