Joker149999

So I'm Looking in to Swapping out my IFS and rear axle out, here is my question what kinda axle's will be good, too do this with? Eventually I want a full blowen rock crawler, but Still be Able too Cruise it around town every once in a while or too drive it too near by trails too crawl on so I don't always have too load it on a trailer. So what's a good gear ratio and axle's too put underneath my ride? any help would be great, thanks

AppleJack

Well a lot will depend on your tire size. You did say that at some point you would like to have a full on Crawler so......36's? At least. A Chevy D44 front axle keeps things simple, but your pushing the limits of it's strength. Maybe a Ford 9in. rear. As for ratios, I think your best bet would be to double up your t-case, but even still you may be looking at 5.29's. Just make sure the ratios you want, are available for both axles, sometimes they're not.

AxleIke

If you want a crawler you'll want dana 60's minimum. Dana 44's are about the same strength as a toyota axle, a little weaker actually.

Or custom.

Get full width, or minimum 66" WMS to WMS

Cromoly everything, this is going cost you some serious coin.

To make it streetable, it will cost you major coin.

Have fun.

dirtoyboy

I say keep it Yota....

Swap in a junkyard toy axle, longfields, hub gears, hydro assist, hub studs, gusseted, armored.....you should be gravy

Rear axles are virtually indestructible...I wouldnt sweat it

Joker149999

So ya I was thinking of going with like a Chevy 1/2 ton axle's, and beefing them up too handle the stress and stuff, but then I have read on people just sticking an older toyota solid axle under the front and building that up along with the rear axle, so I don't know what too do, lol, I want it too be durable and hold up, so I guess it really just comes down too me and what I want in there I guess, What have you guy's put underneath your's?

AxleIke

Early toyota stuff is fine, but narrow. Makes it one tippy biatch if you want to run big tires and a big lift.

Wider allows you to fit bigger tires, without the need for huge lift.

This truck is running custom diamonds, 67" or 68" WMS to WMS, I can't remember.



However, its got a 10k suspension under it too, and those housings aren't cheap.

But, you get the idea. He sits about 3" lower than a Trail Gear kit truck on 35's. He's running 37's.

4Mogger

what kind of budget do you have?

Joker149999

Well pretty much like all of us, Not a huge one,I'm not just gonna drop 50 k right now, but willing too spend what i need too get quality stuff ya know? I dunno I guess the real question, since I'm just kicking off this build up, should I just got with a toy SAS at first, build it with like 5:29 Gear's and get stronger axle shaft's? And as stuff become's available (money) lol, or I start breaking the axle's switch too heavier duty, or just put heavier axle's under it now and not even worry about the toy front axle SAS

AxleIke

Something to keep in mind with a SAS.

You are upgrading the front end to an 8inch unit from the 7.5. Its stronger. However, not a common break point. It happens, but not often.

You are upgrading your steering. A more common break point on IFS, but extremely quick and easy to fix. With the SAS, you really don't have to worry about it until you start really rock crawling.

Axles. Stock birfields are anywhere from equal strength as CVs to weaker than CV's, depending on who you listen to. Either way, they are about the same. A CV takes roughly 10-30 minutes to change on the trail, depending on how fast you are. A birfield takes likely an hour if you are superman. I'm sure some can do it faster, but not many.

Axle shafts are a fairly commonly broken part.

So, it makes little sense to swap in all that money to get something weaker, and harder to fix than before.

My suggestion would be, if you feel you absolutely MUST have a SAS, is to use toy stuff. the front axle is easy to come by and very cheap, the kits are affordable, and make it extremely easy, while being pretty quality, and have a good amount of support online, since EVERYONE has done this mod. By that I mean, you can get help if you get stuck.

Run longfields and a toyota elocker in the front, either elocker or autolocker rear. If you want the best, put in ARB's both ends. Thats a lot of coin, however.

With longs, a selectable front locker, and a rear locker of some sort, your truck will be capable, strong, and simple. You could likely do all of that for a good bit under 3k.

toyyota

I agree with AxleIke, While you are building that front housing, add the gusset kit. The toyota housings tend to bend.

Pedram88

I agree.. Keep it Toy. They are the best way to go if you are in a budget like everyone else. Cheap and easy is always good. Now when you get into the habbit of breaking things.... which you will.... Then you can upgrade to what ever fits your needs. I think I'm keeping mine all toy.

The set up I want to do is the High pinion 5:29 with ARB's in front and 5:29 ARB in the rear. That will get you any where you like. I did some research myself and it's going to cost close to 3 grand. I'm going with air lockers because you are able to turn them off and on where ever you are.

I was thinking about doing the e-lockers, but I think the air is the better way to go. Less things to break on the rocks. And yes do get the gussets. Cheap maintenance.