Clearancing SFA for High Pinion 3rd member
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Clearancing SFA for High Pinion 3rd member
So i know i need to clearance my axle housing to fit my new high pinion third into it. I just wanna read someones elses write up before i go grinding away. Yes i searched everywhere marlin site TG site here google ZUK just cant find pics or anything on someones axle housing clearance job.
Last edited by Tofer; 06-23-2009 at 03:26 PM.
#2
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No problem putting one in my '85 front axle. At the most you may need to slightly enlarge (grind) the top and bottom notches in the housing to allow the gear teeth to fit through. Some gear ratios and brands have slightly taller teeth and need a little extra room.
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it needs to be ground down also around the bearing caps. they hit before they are even half way in. the gears are huge compared to the notches in the housing. They are 529 yukons and it has an ARB.
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i see. the way TG routed the copper line i had to clearance for it also. it was a pita grinding and checking and grinding and checking... etc....these 3rds are heavy, and those lines are fragile. Nevr the less. i m pretty sure its ready. im gonna wait for mornig to install it cause i really wanna be careful so i dont pinch the copper line.
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well if i ever get one for the rear i'll spend the extra 100$ and order it from marlin instead of TG. the routing on the copper is ridiculous beyond close to the axle housing, it touches everywhere!
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could'nt find what i was lookin for so i just went at it by myself. here are some pics
I had to grind the housing on the sides to clearance for the large bearing caps on both sides. not too much but a good 1/8th inch or so. Also had to widen the ring gear channel about 1/2 to 3/4inch wider. And a lil grinding on the top right where the copper air tube was routed around the bearing caps.
You can see where the housing is not round anymore between the 3 studs. this is so the bearing caps would fit.
ring gear channel you have to do the same on top and bottom
Lil bit of grinding for the copper line/ between the two studs
Finally after grinding and checking over and over i got it ti fit just right.
I had to grind the housing on the sides to clearance for the large bearing caps on both sides. not too much but a good 1/8th inch or so. Also had to widen the ring gear channel about 1/2 to 3/4inch wider. And a lil grinding on the top right where the copper air tube was routed around the bearing caps.
You can see where the housing is not round anymore between the 3 studs. this is so the bearing caps would fit.
ring gear channel you have to do the same on top and bottom
Lil bit of grinding for the copper line/ between the two studs
Finally after grinding and checking over and over i got it ti fit just right.
#9
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I had the same problem with mine (reg diff not HP) and ended up tweaking the copper line. I didn't have to grind mine anywhere near what you did, just at the notches for the ring gear. Discussion here at post #155:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f66/...72/index7.html
When ZUK and I looked it over we spent a lot of time test fitting it into a housing he had on premesis. He also mentioned that he thought the copper routing was new since the new bearing seal design from ARB. In the end I was just probably careless when I installed the diff in the first place as I didn't have to grind any additional material off the housing to get it in.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f66/...72/index7.html
When ZUK and I looked it over we spent a lot of time test fitting it into a housing he had on premesis. He also mentioned that he thought the copper routing was new since the new bearing seal design from ARB. In the end I was just probably careless when I installed the diff in the first place as I didn't have to grind any additional material off the housing to get it in.
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#12
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I had the same problem with mine (reg diff not HP) and ended up tweaking the copper line. I didn't have to grind mine anywhere near what you did, just at the notches for the ring gear. Discussion here at post #155:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f66/...72/index7.html
When ZUK and I looked it over we spent a lot of time test fitting it into a housing he had on premesis. He also mentioned that he thought the copper routing was new since the new bearing seal design from ARB. In the end I was just probably careless when I installed the diff in the first place as I didn't have to grind any additional material off the housing to get it in.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f66/...72/index7.html
When ZUK and I looked it over we spent a lot of time test fitting it into a housing he had on premesis. He also mentioned that he thought the copper routing was new since the new bearing seal design from ARB. In the end I was just probably careless when I installed the diff in the first place as I didn't have to grind any additional material off the housing to get it in.
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Hmmmm, hi-pin with yukon 4.88's and an ARB. 1981 housing. No grinding. Just went right in?
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Last edited by neoworm0; 06-24-2009 at 03:33 PM.
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At first I run a 4.88 OEM HP Diff from a 70 Series Land Cruiser on my front axle. Didn't have to clearance anything. It's exactly the same than the ones found on open diff 80 Series LC.
Now I've a fron HP E-Locker with the same 4.88 gears and only had to clearance the locker fork zone like on the rear when retrofitting a regular E-Locker and change a bolt of the locker motor.
Will see what happens when I put 5.29's (Made the auto conversion later).
David
Now I've a fron HP E-Locker with the same 4.88 gears and only had to clearance the locker fork zone like on the rear when retrofitting a regular E-Locker and change a bolt of the locker motor.
Will see what happens when I put 5.29's (Made the auto conversion later).
David
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