FIAMM HiWay Blasters
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FIAMM HiWay Blasters
Hi, I was looking at these http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...952033/c-10101 and I was wondering whether anybody could reccomend a decnent setup. I was wondering whether 1- to go with this FIAMM horn for a good loud sound, and 2- what frequency to go with, 1 low, 1 high or 2 of the same, I need 2 total. I searched, but couldnt find anything relevant, other than they were loud. Thanks,
Jason
Jason
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heres the relay http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...002549/c-10101
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central jersey here, piscataway, if your looking for a set of 4 coke bottle rims or running boards, I have a deal for you, or hit me up if you wanna go wheeling some time, PQJ on AIM. Thanks for the info too!
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#9
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the relay is easy to hook up you have 3 prongs on it one is for a hot from the battery and ....one for the horn and... one for the old horn wireing and it keeps it from blowing fuses and melting the wiring
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heres a writeup https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...orns/corey.htm
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thanks, kinda makes sense, you can't possibly just splice them into the wires that are allready there, I understand the circuit is switched in the ground part, but in theory if you just cut out the old horn, and slpice the new ones in place, shouldnt that work, or am I missing something. Thanks for your patientce, just think Im missing something here.
#12
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Originally Posted by JHupp
thanks, kinda makes sense, you can't possibly just splice them into the wires that are allready there, I understand the circuit is switched in the ground part, but in theory if you just cut out the old horn, and slpice the new ones in place, shouldnt that work, or am I missing something. Thanks for your patientce, just think Im missing something here.
The standard wiring is 20gauge, which is fine for the stock vibrators, but the Blasters will suck more current. You _can_ use these as just a splice & go, but one long blast and you'll be cooking the lead wires.
#14
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The relay would work as a trigger point to switch the higher current load.
Keep the original 20ga wire; use it to trigger the NO relay; the relay (being either a 20A or 30A part) then handles the load. It saves having to run higher gauge wire from the existing horn relay in the fuse block.
Keep the original 20ga wire; use it to trigger the NO relay; the relay (being either a 20A or 30A part) then handles the load. It saves having to run higher gauge wire from the existing horn relay in the fuse block.
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ya, you really should run a relay. when i first hooked up my horns, i hooked them directly to the power from the old horn, they were very underpowered. then i hooked up a relay, what a night and day difference. you can get a 4 prong, 30 amp auto relay at Radioshack for like 6.50.
alright, a relay works this way. it has two circuts, a low amperage circut and a high amperage circut. When the low amperage circute has anywhere from 6-12 volts, it will trigger the high amperage circut. I ran my low amp circut directly off the old horn wire. the low amp circut will normally (read: always) be labeled 85 and 86 on the relay. when there is power through 85 and 86, then 87 and 30 (i didnt make the numbers up, thats whats on the relay itself) will be triggered. if you get a 5 prong relay, just ignore the middle prong, i think it's labeled 87b. it switchs on a circut when there is no power going through the switching circut, and switches off when power is applied to the switching circut. i will attach a very simplified wiring diagram. note this diagram will only work if you have a single wire horn, which i believe toyota used in 91 and newer, so you're good.
if you need any more clarification, let me know
those two circles on the right, they are the horns. i should have labeled them. also, i used 12 gauge wiring for my wire from the battery to the relay, and from the relay to the horns.
alright, a relay works this way. it has two circuts, a low amperage circut and a high amperage circut. When the low amperage circute has anywhere from 6-12 volts, it will trigger the high amperage circut. I ran my low amp circut directly off the old horn wire. the low amp circut will normally (read: always) be labeled 85 and 86 on the relay. when there is power through 85 and 86, then 87 and 30 (i didnt make the numbers up, thats whats on the relay itself) will be triggered. if you get a 5 prong relay, just ignore the middle prong, i think it's labeled 87b. it switchs on a circut when there is no power going through the switching circut, and switches off when power is applied to the switching circut. i will attach a very simplified wiring diagram. note this diagram will only work if you have a single wire horn, which i believe toyota used in 91 and newer, so you're good.
if you need any more clarification, let me know
those two circles on the right, they are the horns. i should have labeled them. also, i used 12 gauge wiring for my wire from the battery to the relay, and from the relay to the horns.
Last edited by L33T35T 4Runner; 12-30-2005 at 07:36 PM. Reason: adding some stuff on the bottom
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Thanks for the info, learned a little bit about this in my EE lab last semester, I forgot about wiring from the fusebox back, JC whitney advertises a FIAMM relay for 3.99, Im gonna order all of this next week, Ill let you know how it turns out, I have to post new pics of my runner, but Ive been waiting to get everything done, this should be my last mod, for now anyway. Thanks again!
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Sorry to be such a P I T A, but I was wondering, if I get a 3 prong relay, how will that differ, the only one on JC Whitney is a 3 prong, or if you can reccomend a good 4 prong, I will definately go with that. Thanks yet again,
Jason
Jason
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I have no idea how a 3 prong works. im guessing it just grounds itself out for terminal 87. just hit up radioshack, they have them in their little drawers
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