Rear e-locker in fjz 80 axle not disengaging
10-30-2012, 01:10 AM
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Rear e-locker in fjz 80 axle not disengaging
Hi there!
My first post on these forums, not actually a Toyota owner but we will get to that
Big in to off road and being from Ireland the natural vehicle of choice was always a Land Rover Defender. The Defender has now been retired to be my tow truck and I have a dedicated offroader instead. My offroader is mostly put together by parts, mostly Range Rover parts. Isuzu engine but it is running of a set of fjz80 axles with e lockers front and rear. Stunning piece of kit if I may add
Generally going out I would engage the center and rear diff locks and when needed also engage the front one. At the end of the day before rolling up on the trailer I'd disengage the lockers. Last time out, no such joy.
First of all there was a battery drain, suspected it being from the locker as that was the only thing that had "changed" status since last.
I removed the actuator from the rear axle and charged the battery. With the engine running giving the actuator power through the regular switches the solenoid part off the actuator gets REALLY hot, fast. It makes no noise or make no attempt to move at all. This is with the actuator on the floor doing zero work at all.
This is what brought me to this fine site to begin with. I found a few articles on here how to refurbish the actuators. Will get on to following these over the week as time allows. But my question is - could there also perhaps being a mechanical seizure in the diff? Could that have caused the actuator to fail?
I was laying under the truck trying to move the fork with a screw driver. First of all I don't know how much travel it has. Second I don't know how tough it should be to move it?
If the diff itself is stuck what is the best way of diagnosing? Are there any "quick fixes"?
My first post on these forums, not actually a Toyota owner but we will get to that
Big in to off road and being from Ireland the natural vehicle of choice was always a Land Rover Defender. The Defender has now been retired to be my tow truck and I have a dedicated offroader instead. My offroader is mostly put together by parts, mostly Range Rover parts. Isuzu engine but it is running of a set of fjz80 axles with e lockers front and rear. Stunning piece of kit if I may add
Generally going out I would engage the center and rear diff locks and when needed also engage the front one. At the end of the day before rolling up on the trailer I'd disengage the lockers. Last time out, no such joy.
First of all there was a battery drain, suspected it being from the locker as that was the only thing that had "changed" status since last.
I removed the actuator from the rear axle and charged the battery. With the engine running giving the actuator power through the regular switches the solenoid part off the actuator gets REALLY hot, fast. It makes no noise or make no attempt to move at all. This is with the actuator on the floor doing zero work at all.
This is what brought me to this fine site to begin with. I found a few articles on here how to refurbish the actuators. Will get on to following these over the week as time allows. But my question is - could there also perhaps being a mechanical seizure in the diff? Could that have caused the actuator to fail?
I was laying under the truck trying to move the fork with a screw driver. First of all I don't know how much travel it has. Second I don't know how tough it should be to move it?
If the diff itself is stuck what is the best way of diagnosing? Are there any "quick fixes"?
10-30-2012, 06:11 PM
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It may be impossible to manually shift the fork while the vehicle is sitting on its wheels. I suggest jacking up one rear tire and then try the fork again. It should move fairly easy once the splines are lined up
10-31-2012, 12:21 AM
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I opened up the actuator and found that the magnets had all come dislodged in the motor. This would explain why nothing was happening and the thing just getting hot.
The locker stopped working all at once after having been working without any delay or hesitation so I think what happened was that one or two magnets were loose already and then when the next one came loose it all stopped working.
So I have cleaned out the motor housing and cleaned the magnets off of old glue. Will put it together and test now without worrying about a mechanical failure in the diff. Likely with this kind of failure that only one thing failed.
Thanks for replying!
The locker stopped working all at once after having been working without any delay or hesitation so I think what happened was that one or two magnets were loose already and then when the next one came loose it all stopped working.
So I have cleaned out the motor housing and cleaned the magnets off of old glue. Will put it together and test now without worrying about a mechanical failure in the diff. Likely with this kind of failure that only one thing failed.
Thanks for replying!
11-05-2012, 02:11 AM
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So an update of this.
Good news is that with one wheel in the air I can engage and disengage with just my finger.
I cleaned out the motor housing and glued on the magnets - I found a guide where they should be placed and in what direction. The problem remain though, when giving the motor a bit of current it just gets hot.
The truck is a pure offroader and I trailer it to the muddiest places we can find. I'm in Ireland and here's wet!
So having a electric locker may not be such a good idea. Not to mention that a second hand one is virtually impossible to get hold of and a new one is crazy money.
The plan is to fabricate air actuators now. Will be more of a fit and forget solution. Always handy to have on board air as well.
Good news is that with one wheel in the air I can engage and disengage with just my finger.
I cleaned out the motor housing and glued on the magnets - I found a guide where they should be placed and in what direction. The problem remain though, when giving the motor a bit of current it just gets hot.
The truck is a pure offroader and I trailer it to the muddiest places we can find. I'm in Ireland and here's wet!
So having a electric locker may not be such a good idea. Not to mention that a second hand one is virtually impossible to get hold of and a new one is crazy money.
The plan is to fabricate air actuators now. Will be more of a fit and forget solution. Always handy to have on board air as well.
11-19-2012, 10:22 PM
#7
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It appears to me......that your E~Locker Motor is Dirty on the Inside!
Look up my E~Locker Install. My E~Locker Motor was stuck also. It was sent out to an automotive electric shop. They cleaned it! And it works Perfect!! So then I had it installed!
The internal contacts can get corroded and cause the connection and motor to not work.
You must make sure that you have a total waterproof system, and you will be fine!
The Toyota E~Locker is the best thing that ever happened to Off Road!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/.../#post51810153
.......Carry On!.......
.
Look up my E~Locker Install. My E~Locker Motor was stuck also. It was sent out to an automotive electric shop. They cleaned it! And it works Perfect!! So then I had it installed!
The internal contacts can get corroded and cause the connection and motor to not work.
You must make sure that you have a total waterproof system, and you will be fine!
The Toyota E~Locker is the best thing that ever happened to Off Road!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/.../#post51810153
.......Carry On!.......
.
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