was on craigslist a second ago and found this supposed 84 toyota diesel, its supposed to be in great shape blah blah blah.... ok its an 84 right? its 4x4, right? solid axle right? nooooo, its an ifs truck? but its not a 2lt? its just a regular older toyota diesel without a turbo? to my best of knowledge toyota never put a turboless diesel in a 4x4 truck, all the 4x4s came with a turbo, and 84 it should have been sfa, right?

http://neworleans.craigslist.org/cto/3398690710.html

tell me if im wrong here but this isnt right, and its def not a 6k truck...

 

Possibly a Katrina fatality revived and pieced together.

 

The pics look like IFS from what I can see. Toyota makes alot of different trucks that we will never see. I was in Guatamala and seen 92-94 quad cabs with solid axles all day long. I have seen 2nd and 3rd Gen Runner with more being diesel powered then gasoline.

We had an 84 diesel powered truck like that in this area and I tried my best to get ahold of it. Guy finally sold it when I was overseas. Grrr... I have seen a few without turbo and they say they are a little weak. I did get to drive a 97 or 98 with diesel and the mileage was great along with great power as well. We are missing out big time over here.

 

You're wrong.

You could only get a diesel 4WD truck/4Runner with a 2L engine in 84, and in 85 you could only get one with a 2L-T(in the US).

It's not an 84 chassis(frame). It's an 86+ frame(obviously...since it's IFS).

Maybe you missed this:

I like how he thinks he lifted the body, but not with a lift kit. Like there's some magic way you can do it that doesn't require a kit/mod of some sort. Maybe he went and did it the hard way by cutting/extending/rewelding the body mount brackets on the frame(or by some other unknown configuration managed to lift the body). But if he did, he wasted his time and money. Because there's nothing gonna do it any better than a cheapo Roger Brown(4Crawler) body lift kit(spacers w/longer bolts).

 

I wonder if the engine is leaking oil or the front diff..

2wd diesel toys are commanding a premium lately..a good diesel 4x4 will too...

 

I would love to have a diesel toyota, but I feel like parts would be a mother to find here in the states.

 

yeah mud hippy got me i def missed that part, but frame swapping cab swapping, blah blah, illegal? i dont think its 6k worth, def a cool truck, but not 6k worth....

 

I don't know about illegal, but it might not qualify as an antique. Since it's not all original equipment for that year(just an 84 body and engine really, the rest could be from 86+).
Not even close to it...

 

$6000 is not a bad place to start with a 4WD Toyota diesel 4x4-IF it is running good and the frame isn't swiss cheese..

Maybe these are easy to find somewhere in the world-NOT in North America! Good luck finding ANY 4 cylinder diesel 4x4 truck in the US!!!

But the problem with the 2L is parts. Andlours is right. I could not find main/rod bearings for mine. I've done the head (all new valves), but having a hard time finding bearings, pistons, rings (stock or overbore-just made of unobtainium). Anyone have a source?

 

Seriously? You must not have looked very hard. RockAuto has almost all of that stuff(exc. the pistons). I did find those elsewhere though. And it looks like every part imaginable for the 2L(T) is still available from Toyota(including pistons in STD and O/S 0.50 sizes).

For the part diagrams: http://www.toyotapartszone.com/
For the FULL part numbers: http://www.toyotapartseast.com/
For the best deals: http://parts.tituswilltoyota.com/

 

For enough money...anything's possible.

http://www.importperformanceusa.com/...-diesel-swaps/
http://www.importperformanceusa.com/...-diesel-swaps/

 

I wonder why all of the parts stores say they can't get them?

Many of those listed parts at alibaba are Chinese suppliers, and many have minimum orders like 300, 100, and frankly, I've never bought parts like that.

So it can be done. But there are two things to consider for most of us... 1. I have a full time job, with kids and stuff to do at home at night as well., and 2. Money. Any combination of the time and money problem here fits!

I guess the thing to do is make a list, comprehensive. Then cut it back to what's absolutely required. Maybe I can reduce the cost by combining parts with one supplier when possible.

I'd like to hear from forum members that have bought parts from the Chinese auto parts store supply warehouses/factories. I see payment by western union, bank transfer, and other methods that would take some research. Any experience with this?

Can you go to your local parts store and ask them to order stuff from these international parts suppliers? Will they just say no?

How about quality, warantee?

 

How about just ordering OEM parts from Toyota(for pistons), or non-OEM parts from RockAuto(for anything else)? The link to the foreign suppliers was just for example of how the parts can be had in the 1000s(somewhere in the world).

Granted, $193 for a set of OEM pistons and pins is a little expensive. But if you can't readily get them anywhere else, and the quality won't be any better if you can, then maybe it's worth it? The rest of the parts are probably going to be cheaper if you buy non-OEM, which are readily available online.

http://www.toyotapartseast.com/Page_...1435,1436,1437
http://RockAuto.com

Don't be such a quitter...

 

3 slot grill started in 87..

 

Incorrect. 2 slot grille started in 87...3 slot grille was 84-86...
http://www.toyotareference.com/truck/1984-1988

 

well still for 6k and its not even a turbo, of sfa for that matter, or sr5, for 6k i could most likely get a clean one and mercedes turbo diesel it for cheaper....

 

The price isn't all that far off considering the fact that it is ready to drive away. But I see some ragged edges on the frame under there (rust out), and that plastic bed liner is probably hiding more.

I guess parts can be found (Mudhippy!), but if that won't fix a rusted out frame or bed. Close inspection might prove me wrong, and if I didn't have a 82 diesel pickup (no title, for the engine/wiring), I'd look into it. But that kind of thing needs inspection, in person!

But this has me getting more motivated to complete the 2L rebuild! I need an 8th day every week to spend in the shop!

 

Hijacking thread (sorry). Can't pm Mudhippy.

Toyotamotorparts has different piston sets. Some appear to be oversized (what I want-will have block machined). $200 might be a little high for a set of pistons, but OEM oversized would be ideal. Also, rod bearings and other bearings show 0.5 O/S as well. This block has 170k on it. I will have all machining of journals possible. I have asked if these are 0.5mm oversized. I've decided to go ahead and go for it.

FYI-LC Engineering told me they could find NO parts except valves (they already did the head).

 

You can see in the second to last pic what his sketchy body lift is made of, the two flat straps with holes in them. If thats what the front looks like, i'd be scared to see how the cab mounts to the frame.

 

It'll be well worth the money in the long run. You'll be glad you did it.

BTW, the threadjack is probably my fault on this one(on a number of levels). You were just making a statement. I was the one who decided to pursue the subject further.

Though it's not the approach I would have taken, from what I can see of it, that bit looks to be more than sturdy enough. For the intended purpose that is. Which is just to hold the bumper up.



I would have reused the upper bumper mounting brackets(as most body lift kits do). Instead of just hammering them out of the way like that. Atleast cut them off if you are going to do that...that looks stupid. But considering the fact that he used what appears to be atleast ⅜" plate for the extension pieces, and then welded one edge to the frame(plus reusing the lower bumper mounting bolt in the original location). I'd have to say he did more than enough to keep the bumper in place(under most circumstances).

I can imagine the way he lifted the body 3", without a kit. All you'd really would need would be a welder, hacksaw and/or angle grinder(with a cutting wheel), maybe a drill(with bits), the appropriate number of 3" sections of suitable diameter steel pipe(or tubing), and some longer hardware to bolt it all together. Plus some time on your hands...of course.

EDIT: I just noticed that it looks like he forgot to drop the radiator 3" too. But maybe that was out of necessity(because of the engine's position). Or maybe he did drop it a little bit(hard to tell). But that's definitely not as low as it was stock.