Gregery

I have an '88 MT, 3VZE Pickup. A few weeks ago I rebuilt my Starter & Solenoid. The Starter itself was fine, but the Solenoid seemed to be my issue, On cold mornings it wouldn't get any contact, At all! I replaced the contacts and the plunger. I get better contact for starting.. but it stopped getting the same cranking power on the starter. Which really seems like an old Battery issue. Been wanting a bigger better battery for a while, and finally pulled the trigger. But upon replacing the battery I noticed a melted wire at the Positive Battery connector. .. The Red Wire is my Stereo. The Black/Red one leads to at thick white wire, which is at least 10 Gauge, it then leads to a Black Female Fuse in the Relay Block #2. The Fuse has not been tripped, but does seem to be welded in there!! What is that fuse is for??

And, is this light gauge wire supposed to be this way?? The Connection between the thinner and thicker wires Looks OEM. But the reduction in gauge seems weird to me.
I don't see anything in the Service Manual about it. I also don't see anything in the Service manual about that Fuse OR The Relay Box as it pertains to the 3VZE.

85TRD4runner

Hello Gregery, The melted wire in your photo is supposed to be the fusible link. It looks to me like it tripped in its former life and someone tried to "replace" it. The half that is coming out of the fuse box looks factory, but that join in the wire halfway to the battery is not a factory job. The fuse you are pointing to in your picture is the 80amp main fuse for the charging system/battery. It is held into the fuse box itself with a plastic clip. In addition to that, the wires going to that fuse are bolted on. Grab a flathead screwdriver and pop the tab back and push the fuse down out the bottom of the fuse box then simply unbolt and replace.

Gregery

Aah I See, Thanks.

Charchee

Do a search for some of the mods people do with that wire. I have upgraded mine. Lots of good write-ups on that topic.

Gregery

Not seeing any photos of that mod.. Is that mod simply replacing the wire with a bigger one?

L5wolvesf

FWIW, I tried to find the fusible link mod too and couldn't find a thread that specifically address it.
Of course now that I say that . . .

RAD4Runner

GUYS, PLEASE DO NOT "UPGRADE" (UPSIZE) the fusible link. It is there to protect the stock wiring from overloads/shorts, like the condition that cause the stock on to melt. UPgrading ur FL means DOWNgrading your circuit protection.
If u plan to add load to ur battery, supply it with proper auxiliary distribution box wired directly to the battery and protected with separate fuse. If anything happens to the aux circuits, stock circuits and wiring will still be protected by stock FL. Your sub woofer or off-road lights may not work but circuits critical to running the truck will still work.

L5wolvesf

I agree with this. I'm asking because I don't think my truck has the FL and the wiring around that area has been changed. Including some of the A/C wiring being cut.
The OPs pic reminded me of mine. I would love to see what it should look like and understand what a mod does.

RAD4Runner

Restore to stock.
Find schematic for ur truck,
find out what current FL wire is rated at, Need to know what size.
Summit Racing has FL wire . People there shud be able to help.
Philbert has thread on FL wire.

Gregery

That was my original idea. I do have the Factory Service Manual, As well as the Haynes. (haven't looked at the Haynes.) The FSM doesn't show a wiring diagram. But.. I'm sure that white wire is OEM. Anyone have a photo or know for sure?

Gregery

Ok, so The Fusible link wire would be that White Line right??
In that case, My Fusible Link would still be good.

Should I just remove the hacked B-R Wire and connector?

clip at the end of the white wire, and replacing the burnt wire with a short piece of regular 10 Gauge Copper Primary Automotive Wire? Using a Crimp And a bit of solder?

L5wolvesf

I found a few pics on a couple threads here.

This one has pics of the link > https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...attery-262260/

This one shows how to repair > https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f127...cement-228833/

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

The OEM link assembly is no longer available, you'll have to replace the fuse wire section. There are detailed instructions here somewhere with photos.

Your printed FSM should have a fold out at the back with a schematic, check it wasn't torn out by the previous owners. AutoZone has them online free of charge after you register, aswell your Haynes should have a printed section.

L5wolvesf

Here is a pick of mine. The white goes to the underside of the fuse/relay box.

But it seems to be non-stock so I don’t know if it is right. Input on that would be greatly appreciated.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Oem pics in the battery shorted thread

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure if you want to try to replace the whole wire (not sure what all is connected to the oem wire), but I have an 86 pickup I've been parting out and I think the starter cable/harness isn't hacked up. The sensor/engine harness is hacked up though. I don't know this gen as well so not super sure which harness the FL relates to.

Charchee

Man, replace that sucker with a good heavy wire and life will be good. It's already going into a fuse but install an inline fuse in it if you are nervous about not having the fusible link. 20+ year old FLs are known to deteriorate over time and give you reduced current to all of your accessories.