magentawave

I have an 82 Toyota pickup (its actually a motorhome) with rust I need to remove. See images below.

The worst of the rust is in the panel located at the bottom of the windshield and in bottom corners of the windshield.

1) I assume that panel can't be replaced, right?

2) Am I correct in thinking that I would need to remove both fenders and windshield to be able to get to the rusty parts?

3) How difficult is it to remove a windshield without breaking it?

4) Normally for most rust in easily accessible areas I would grind it off and bondo it, but that may not work with the panel below the windshield so I'm wondering how you would deal with that area?

5) How difficult is it to remove the fenders off of an 82?

Thank you.

Steve

donomite49

have not tried it myself but i hear POR 15 is the best on rust. google it.
fenders are not hard to remove, better get some PB blaster for the rusty bolts though.

magentawave

Thanks!

Have you found PB Blaster to be better than WD-40 for loosening gnarly rusted nuts and bolts?

95yoter8

i would sand all of that down. every thing there is removable

magentawave

I was thinking of sanding/grinding that stuff off and then I'll coat it with some stop-rust stuff and then fill in the holes or whatever with JB Weld (which is epoxy) and then sand it fine for the primer. I'm concerned about removing the front windshield without breaking it. Does anyone know how to do that?

Thanks

Scirocco16v

I wire brushed my rust (wirewheel on drill)__ treated it with rust converter (kleanstrip) & painted

warpigg

i think this stuff called zep 45 is better then pb and wd-40 and it comes in really big cans, i think the pb stuff smells bad and doesnt work fast enough for me and ive nver liked wd-40 because its always been more expensive.

Toyota~Boy

iTrader: (2)

To answer your questions:

To remove a fender you must unbolt it. You have a few bolts in the top of fender under the hood. 2 bolts behind corner light of fender. 2 bolts on bottom of fender next to door. One hidden bolt on top of fender but behind door. Next to top door hinge. You must also unbolt the inner fender.

Hood is simple. Just four bolts.

The cowl is easily removed as well. Just a few bolts. You do not need to remove the windshield to remove cowl.

Windshield: I know of 2 easy ways to remove this. My local Lowes home improvement carries a adapter that goes on a recipitating saw that's extreamly flexible. It works great. It looks like a puddy knife. You can use that to go around the inside of windshield to cut the old glue and safely remove glass.
The other way is to use a guitar string. 2 people are needed for this. Take a knife and slice the glue until you have a hole that you can wiggle the guitar string through. Then with on guy on inside of truck and other on out side you will pull the string back and fourth cutting the glue. This is very risky and old school but it works great. Once you get the rythem it goes quick.

donomite49

pb blaster is a penetrating oil (rust buster) WD40 is just a light oil.

i would use fiberglass resin before JB weld for that, easier and quicker hardening time. just clean it real good with a wire wheel down to clean metal and paint it with POR15 or similar, and then fill it with whatever you are gonna use.

magentawave

Did you use the Kleanstrip Rust Remover or the Kleanstrip Rust Converter?

HighLux

Harbor freight sells a windshield removal kit. Freind used it with sucess.

magentawave

I'm trying to locate a dealer for Zep 45 but they don't have anything on their website and someone at Home Depot says they don't carry it. Where did you buy it?

magentawave

But isn't the "cowl" the sheet metal part between the hood and the bottom of the windshield? And if so, why wouldn't I need to remove the windshield to get to the rust at the bottom of the windshield that is on the cowl (see photo at beginning of this thread)?

I've never seen anything like that. Do you know what they call that part you're talking about so I can find it at Lowes?




Thanks!

HighLux

Ive used por15 and the rust converter they sell too.

Clean as much of with wire wheel....wash...spray on rust converter,,,wash real good...layer of por15...bodywork...prime...paint.

warpigg

por-15 its all about the prep work and cure time. and i belive the only way to get zep 45 is if your a company my dad use to work for honda and thats what they used, the cans are like twice the size as pb blaster cans, some places sell cases of 12 for like $100-$120 this is how big the cns are lol.

magentawave

If you look at the photo I attached below you will see that I put red arrows pointing to each of the major rust spots on the hood. Each of those rust spots is directly above the supporting frame thingee that runs diagonally across each side of the inside of the hood (the side that faces the engine compartment).

I'm concerned that because I can't (at least I don't think I can) access the rusted area under the hood because its inaccessable inside that hood frame thing that I will probably need to buy a new hood. What do you think?

warpigg

if you can stab the rust spots with a screw driver and it goes through you will prolly need a new hood unless you want to take your time to fix it

magentawave

Its weird that those rust spots are ALL above that structural support under the hood, but even if I wanted to fix it, how can I thoroughly remove those rust spots when I can't access the area under them?

vin45

Use a wire brush to remove the worst of it, then use a chemical agent to remove the rest of the rust. Typical rust removing acids won't damage the metal- only remove the rust. Then clean very well with water, prep as directed for the paint, then repaint.I got help from the best used car dealership in Spokane to get my vehicle. I was really happy I came across a website to help me get there. I needed to make sure I did all the homework I could to determine what vehicle I wanted and just how much I was willing to pay before I left. Have you been in the market to sell or buy a used or pre-owned SUV? If this relates to you, do yourself a favor and look into ”BJ auto sales Spokane"

magentawave

Thanks but how can I possibly access the rust that is on the bottom side of the hood and inside those diagonal supports?