Body work question-Pits in bondo
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Body work question-Pits in bondo
I got a new hood for my 86 pickup and had to do alittle body work to it. I worked the metal back to shape the best I could then used a thin coat of bondo. I sanded it down and found that there were little pits in the bondo. How can I fix that?? Im not a paint and body person but doing the best I can.
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Sometimes that can happen when your working time is on the finish side of it time. Also it might just need to be filled higher and sanded down smooth. I had to do 3 applications when I smoothed out a door on a suburban. This is all based on limited experience. Hopefully a bodywork guy on here will chime in.
Edit. Also make sure you get it really clean between coats.
Edit. Also make sure you get it really clean between coats.
Last edited by thefishguy77; 04-15-2014 at 07:51 PM.
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Rocky Mtn. House AB, Canada
Posts: 727
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
coming from a body man, these are called pin holes. They are likely due to adding too much hardener and/or improper mixing which allows air bubbles to enter your filler before you apply it. Follow the instructions on the can PERFECTLY. Filler is very fussy stuff.
The majority of fillers require 2% hardener by weight. Read that last sentance again. That is not very much. Over hardening your filler is the #1 cause for problems with it. Go out and buy a cheap scale and weigh it out. It may suprise you how little is required.
Rules of filler:
-never apply it over paint
-always squeeze your first coat on really thin to fill all the scratches
-2% hardener (unless the can says other wise)
-never more than "1/4 thick
if you have to fill more than "1/4 your first coat should be a fiberglass filler. It has much more strength and flexability then your average polyester filler and is designed for such filling jobs. Its also waterproof so if there are holes in your weld or sheet metal it won't absorb water.
The majority of fillers require 2% hardener by weight. Read that last sentance again. That is not very much. Over hardening your filler is the #1 cause for problems with it. Go out and buy a cheap scale and weigh it out. It may suprise you how little is required.
Rules of filler:
-never apply it over paint
-always squeeze your first coat on really thin to fill all the scratches
-2% hardener (unless the can says other wise)
-never more than "1/4 thick
if you have to fill more than "1/4 your first coat should be a fiberglass filler. It has much more strength and flexability then your average polyester filler and is designed for such filling jobs. Its also waterproof so if there are holes in your weld or sheet metal it won't absorb water.
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Rocky Mtn. House AB, Canada
Posts: 727
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
heh, should have looked at your pictures before I posted, you sir have not used enough filler. Thats where the majority of those pits are coming from. For good measure, call that your practice run, sand/grind it all out and start over. Too many layers of filler and theres more chances for a failure.
#6
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
coming from a body man, these are called pin holes. They are likely due to adding too much hardener and/or improper mixing which allows air bubbles to enter your filler before you apply it. Follow the instructions on the can PERFECTLY. Filler is very fussy stuff.
The majority of fillers require 2% hardener by weight. Read that last sentance again. That is not very much. Over hardening your filler is the #1 cause for problems with it. Go out and buy a cheap scale and weigh it out. It may suprise you how little is required.
Rules of filler:
-never apply it over paint
-always squeeze your first coat on really thin to fill all the scratches
-2% hardener (unless the can says other wise)
-never more than "1/4 thick
if you have to fill more than "1/4 your first coat should be a fiberglass filler. It has much more strength and flexability then your average polyester filler and is designed for such filling jobs. Its also waterproof so if there are holes in your weld or sheet metal it won't absorb water.
The majority of fillers require 2% hardener by weight. Read that last sentance again. That is not very much. Over hardening your filler is the #1 cause for problems with it. Go out and buy a cheap scale and weigh it out. It may suprise you how little is required.
Rules of filler:
-never apply it over paint
-always squeeze your first coat on really thin to fill all the scratches
-2% hardener (unless the can says other wise)
-never more than "1/4 thick
if you have to fill more than "1/4 your first coat should be a fiberglass filler. It has much more strength and flexability then your average polyester filler and is designed for such filling jobs. Its also waterproof so if there are holes in your weld or sheet metal it won't absorb water.
Trending Topics
#9
I would follow the advice suggested above. If u end up with pinholes when u do get enuf body filler applies and sanded down then u can use glazing putty to fill those in. It is only meant for minor imperfections and I mean minor. It goes on smooth and sands fairly easily. Hope this helps.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RedRunner_87
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
84
06-01-2021 01:51 PM
Avenged
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
4
07-09-2015 07:55 AM
skoti89
Off Road Trip Planning, Expeditions, Trips, & Events
0
07-06-2015 07:45 PM
Suprarossa
99+ Tundra, 00+ Sequoia, 98+ Land Cruiser/LX470
0
07-06-2015 05:21 AM