wswplmg

I recently acquired an '86 4-runner in unmolested very good condition(AZ truck) other than after market rims and tires.It is a keeper and I am going to do an SAS and mild build up eventually.It has some rod knock as the motor is getting tired but I am very limited right now on money(who isn't right?).Can anybody tell me if it is possible to pull the oil pan with the motor in place? Will it clear the diff? I don't want to even try this and not have it clear for being able to reseal the pan.The reason for my pulling it would be to replace the rod bearings in order to buy myself some time.I would greatly appreciate any help.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Unless it had a 6" bracket lift...... I'm pretty sure you're gonna have to drop the diff. I did, and even then it was tight(swinging the diff down and out of the way, not removing the whole axle, just removing one axle end from the hub...) Lots of threads on it, including mine(it's too long, don't bother, hahaha... I'll try to find it for ya, but you'll likely find it before then).

Again, best wishes, man!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> 92Toy(Jerry) on here rebuilt his entire motor with it in the truck! lol.... He's got TONS of pictures, etc. I have quite a write up as well, as I said, but I'll have to find it for ya if you can't before you need it.

92 TOY

thanks Mark.

yep...go to thread "B" in my sig. it's on either page 1 or page 2.

it CAN be done. It's a total pain in the butt....

EDIT: page 2 , post #29

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

My pleasure.... you're one of my HEROOOOOOOOOOES, Mr. Jerry! HEHEHE. Seriously though.... I hope you don't EVER forget how much people appreciated you tackling that feat! Still purring, I see, too! lol.

gennro

It is easier to pull the engine.

92 TOY

thanks man....appreciate it.

I'm gonna kinda agree with this.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I will 3rd that sentiment and raise you a HELLZ YEAH! lol.

* Took me a few hours last time to have it on the hoist and up and out. From there, long block headed off to the shop and in dayz I had rebuilt it with a new donor block and crank/with my machinist with all new goodies for under 800$(including the complete head rebuild and donor block, bearings, crank shaving, rings, springs, valves, guides, machine work)... Course, doing much of the work myself saved me lots.. But just to re-ring and do bearings/have the crank turned? CHEAP/FAIRLY EASY once the motor is out. Just need a gasket and ring and bearing set.........

BUT, you CAN do the bearings while in there just to buy some time(especially if you have no hoist/access to one/nowhere to work on it, etc.... I know how that is from past experience). Just hope that's all you need and you don't end up wasting all that difficult time and knuckle banging only to find it needs a bit more than just bearings, ya know?

wswplmg

Thanks guys,I think I'll just run a little heavier oil and maybe some STP and pray it makes it a little longer.I definately plan on going thru this motor soon.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Since we're scribed to your thread now.... PLEASE< post up a link of the 'motor build' when you get there, k? Best wishes with the 'WISHOIL' hehehe. Seriously, MANY of us have been there... Can't always either find time/space/ or even the cabbage to start a rebuild.... I hope, as well, that you make it to WHENEVER you need it to!

gennro

Run some Shell Rotella 15W-40, that will help some. You may check for exhaust leaks and do the valve lash adjustment.

Kiroshu

I would think if your going to do the SAS swap... then that would be the easiest time to do the oil pan... no axle or suspension there at all... change pan and bearings as needed... unless your going to do a total engine overhaul.... then disreguard.... and pull the engine.

Kiroshu

Bleh i hate rotella... its such a pitiful oil... at least in my experience... I like the weight and that does help alot but as far a the quality of the oil... pitiful... at least for a high mileage engine anyway.

I tried rotella for about 10 oil changes and it did quiet down the engine alot but the oil was breaking down at a very high rate... And the engine was consuming it more than the thinner weight oils i used in the past... about a quart a week....

I pretty much was required to change my oil every 1500 miles... >_<

Switched to valvoline 10w40 maxlife and i've been 1200 miles and the oil is pretty much almost brand new looking. And its only consumed 1/4 of a quart.

Sorry for thread jack... got carried away..

I'm fired... ^_^