Where do I charge my AC?
#1
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Where do I charge my AC?
Hi yota lovers does anyone know where or if on a 1993 truck, can air cond. ref. can be charged? thanks I would greatly appreciate your response.
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Hey thanks
My system is fine, there is no leaks. I accidentally unscrewed some piping in front of the radiator support not knowing it was ac line , i thought it was a power steering. My radiator fell down and was trying to fix it. So I unscrewed the line and freeon came out. Until about a month ago I then realized my ac system wasn't working.thanks
#4
You can still buy R12 on eBay sometimes (not sure if legal). If you do the R134a conversion, make sure it's done properly or you can easily destroy your system. Personally, I'm a huge fan of the hydrocarbon refrigerant, and use it in all my old R12 systems.
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is it that hard to switch. I mean I've recharged refri. in other cars I just wanted to know if there is a nipple or something to adapt the hose and can to. thanks for your help,
james woods and cody o
james woods and cody o
#7
First, check your refrigerant label (somewhere in the engine compartment) so you know what you're dealing with. If you have R134a, you will be able to re-charge with store-bought refrigerant. If it's R12, you will have to decide if you want to try to acquire more R12, or you want to convert to something else.
Since you had the system open to the air, you need to draw a vacuum before you can recharge. Otherwise, residual moisture will combine with the refrigerant to produce hydrochloric and hydrofluoric acids, which will destroy your equipment.
If you are inclined to to do the work yourself, here's a basic idea of what you have to do:
1) Replace filter/drier. This may be optional, but is probably a good idea.
2) Perform conversion, if required.
3) Draw a vacuum to remove water and check for leaks.
4) Add refrigerant.
Since you had the system open to the air, you need to draw a vacuum before you can recharge. Otherwise, residual moisture will combine with the refrigerant to produce hydrochloric and hydrofluoric acids, which will destroy your equipment.
If you are inclined to to do the work yourself, here's a basic idea of what you have to do:
1) Replace filter/drier. This may be optional, but is probably a good idea.
2) Perform conversion, if required.
3) Draw a vacuum to remove water and check for leaks.
4) Add refrigerant.
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#8
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I second Cody O's comment, the R12 cools way better than R134a, but they stopped making (and supposed to stop selling) R12 in 1992. The conversion kits arent that expensive and can be bought at any local parts story (i.e. autozone, advance, oreilly's, etc). As Cody said, definitely pull a good vacuum on it. Ive heard rumor that sometimes you will wind up having to replace all the o-rings (and sometimes even all the a/c lines) when you convert, but like I said, only a rumor. Ive done a couple conversions myself and havent had any problems. I work at a shop so I dont have this problem, but if I were you, i'd definitely take it to a shop, have them do a full recovery of the system and pull a solid 20-30 min vacuum on the system to rid it of moisture. Have them charge it as well as they can get a very accurate charge as opposed to you pouring cans of freon in the system. Good luck to ya man!!
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thanks
First, check your refrigerant label (somewhere in the engine compartment) so you know what you're dealing with. If you have R134a, you will be able to re-charge with store-bought refrigerant. If it's R12, you will have to decide if you want to try to acquire more R12, or you want to convert to something else.
Since you had the system open to the air, you need to draw a vacuum before you can recharge. Otherwise, residual moisture will combine with the refrigerant to produce hydrochloric and hydrofluoric acids, which will destroy your equipment.
If you are inclined to to do the work yourself, here's a basic idea of what you have to do:
1) Replace filter/drier. This may be optional, but is probably a good idea.
2) Perform conversion, if required.
3) Draw a vacuum to remove water and check for leaks.
4) Add refrigerant.
Since you had the system open to the air, you need to draw a vacuum before you can recharge. Otherwise, residual moisture will combine with the refrigerant to produce hydrochloric and hydrofluoric acids, which will destroy your equipment.
If you are inclined to to do the work yourself, here's a basic idea of what you have to do:
1) Replace filter/drier. This may be optional, but is probably a good idea.
2) Perform conversion, if required.
3) Draw a vacuum to remove water and check for leaks.
4) Add refrigerant.
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hey is this refridg. info on the compressor, thanks for the help i'm new to the site. I'll be putting some things for sale from my '93 truck soon. Have a good 4th, and god bless Yota lovers.
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Updates?
Is there any update or result from this forum?
My old 1996 T100 SR5 has been good to me but isn't worth a trip to the shop. I changed the timing belt last fall. One of the steps there involved removing the AC bracket. AC stopped blowing cold after that. I have no problem rolling the windows down in Wisconsin but sometimes women are picker/naggier. My AC light still comes on and I can hear it kick in but no cold. Hoping just a $25 can of R134a to shut her up. Even a youthful 250k mile T100 is not worth a $200 trip to the shop for A/C.
Thanks
My old 1996 T100 SR5 has been good to me but isn't worth a trip to the shop. I changed the timing belt last fall. One of the steps there involved removing the AC bracket. AC stopped blowing cold after that. I have no problem rolling the windows down in Wisconsin but sometimes women are picker/naggier. My AC light still comes on and I can hear it kick in but no cold. Hoping just a $25 can of R134a to shut her up. Even a youthful 250k mile T100 is not worth a $200 trip to the shop for A/C.
Thanks
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