msh441

So I've got a shop that I've been dealing with lately in Mount Vernon. Had a coolant leak and replaced all my hoses in my 1994 4-Runner. Now, this is a pretty squared-away truck and I've really taken good care of it IMO. The hoses were legitimately worn/cracked/leaking so I knew I was due for the repair and I tought it was a pretty simple job. It's been back into the shop 6 times now chasing leaks. Good that the shop is covering the work and I'm not paying any more. Bad that the truck leaks more coolant now than when it was before the "repair". But I'll get to the point:

First, anyone have any experience with any decent/squared away shops in SKagit County? I believe need to make a switch.

Secondly: LAst time it was in, one of the mechanics called about a recommended repair. BAsiclly sounds like a full front end rebuild, including:

-Idler Arm replacement ($88 Parts/$68 Labor)
-replacing 2x Inner Tie Rods ($60 P/$117 L)
-replacing the Pitman Arm ($160 P/$136 L)
-replacing the Tie Rod Ends (included w/tie rods, but +$30 to replace bushings)
-replacing the Center Link ($212 P/$107 L)
-4-wheel realignment ($90)

Now, being a 15-year-old 4x4... the stearing is a little loose, yes... I can see going through and replacing idler arm bushings, tie rod bushings and anything else to give it a freshen-up in front. But I'm strongly questioning the need for a full-on front end rebuild (and if it IS necessary, I won't do it with this shop). Nothing is bent up front or showing signs of any damage. The truck has done some light forest service roads, but has never been seriously 4x4'ed.

The mechanic tried to make it sound emminent as if the front of the car was suddlenly going to break up at speed. BS IMO (hence looking for another mech). But I'm in no a professional mechanic and could be way off.

Some opinions and help here would be greatly appreciated.

ScottyC

iTrader: (1)

His labor times are ridiculous. $136 = two hours to replace the pitman arm. That is a 15 minute repair.

At the most, it would be 2-3 hours to replace the entire steering setup.

An alignment can be had pretty much anywhere for $50-$60.

IMO, he is trying to recoup costs of having to deal with your coolant leak several times.

Find another mechanic.

msh441

Yeah, that was my feeling, too. I was well aware of the standard alignment costs... as well as the proceedure for replacing the Idler Arm/bushings.

STILL(!!!) fighting that coolant leak with them, though. I'm definately at the end of my rope and need a good mechanic.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Um, sounds like you need another mechanic, but why not just do this yourself?

AZkid

i bought this gunky crap in my radiator and it filled my leak

well that was my old engine, but it held up, no more leaks=me happy

83

That stuff also likes to fill up you heater core and various other coolant passages...it does seal leaks, though. The best method of fixing coolant leaks is by FIXING them.

theAuthority

You spent enough time 'driving to his shop' for him to fix the coolant leaks, than it would take to replace ALL of them yourself.

Whether or not he's fixed your hoses by now, leave his shop and be done with him before you breaks something on purpose to get more money out of you.

msh441

free time, tools and skill < money


So are these parts that normally wear out and need replacement? I can understand bushings... but all the hard parts, too? Am I in some imminent danger driving this vehicle before it's fixed?

theAuthority

solid metal bars do not need replaced unless they are bent.. and even then they function

replace anything soft or liquidy.

you're up here in WA ? If you're money is so great, i'll do the work

crafthorse

If you are going to replace the idler arm or pitman arm, go ahead and replace the tie rod ends etc.. Just replacing one or the other will not show any benifit in the loose steering, and yes tie rod ends if over worn can weaken and break, but it is very uncommon for just on the street driving, it is mainly a steering response concern, and tire wear problem. All of this can be done in an afternoon, it is not hard at all. Good Luck, and Yeah I would find another mechanic.

Oh, and have you looked for the leak yourself? You may be able to locate it and tell you new mechanic where it is or what it is and same some labor time for troubleshooting.

RobD

The center link may or may not be covered by a recall. Mine was done 2 years ago for free.

msh441

I can narrow it down quite a bit. It's in the enginge comparment on the left side... sort of central on the block (fore/aft)... under the manifold. But I can't tell if it's a hose or what without a scope, or removing the manifold.

83

Drivers side or passenger? If it's under the intake manifold you may just need a new manifold gasket. There's also a hose or two under there..