Putting new oil filter on?
01-05-2011, 02:17 PM
#1
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Putting new oil filter on?
I am wondering what the effects would be if my new oil filter was not full of oil before I put it on because, that sucker is up under there and the oil I put in it keeps coming out before I can screw it on. ?????
01-05-2011, 02:53 PM
#6
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If you're that paranoid about it, pull the EFI fuse and crank it until you see the gauge move a little, pop the fuse back in and voila. No dry start. Or pull the coil wire.
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01-05-2011, 06:30 PM
#8
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Prefilling with oil will reduce the time the bearings run dry, so it's a good idea, but it can be messy. I fill the filter with oil, allowing time for it to fully fill up the space on the outside of the filter pleats. Then I pour the oil in the center core back into the jug; I don't hold it upside down long, just enough for most of the oil in the core to run out, but hopefully before much of the oil behind the pleats can drain out, and then I spin it onto the motor. Still makes a mess, tho.
I've only done that since I switched to the Purolator PureONE PL20195 which has about twice the volume of the stock Toyota 90915-YZZD1, so it takes about twice as long to fill with oil. I don't think it's necessary to fill the little YZZD1. For the midsized Toyota 90915-YZZD3, it's a toss-up whether prefilling is needed.
I've only done that since I switched to the Purolator PureONE PL20195 which has about twice the volume of the stock Toyota 90915-YZZD1, so it takes about twice as long to fill with oil. I don't think it's necessary to fill the little YZZD1. For the midsized Toyota 90915-YZZD3, it's a toss-up whether prefilling is needed.
01-05-2011, 07:27 PM
#10
Yeah, don't feel bad for not "knowing" to do so. It's not exactly common knowledge.
Even the FSM doesn't tell you to do it.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...17oilandfi.pdf
You might even call it's being a necessary step a "myth". Though it does seem to make some logical sense, so you won't hear me call it that.
But, how come it's not included in the installation instructions on the oil filter packaging? If it's really so crucially important, wouldn't it be a good idea to let the consumer be aware of that "fact"? Just food for thought.
Even the FSM doesn't tell you to do it.
1. DRAIN ENGINE OIL
(a) Remove the oil filler cap.
(b) Remove the oil dipstick.
(c) Remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil into a
container.
2. REPLACE OIL FILTER
(a) Using SST, remove the oil filter (located on left side of
the cylinder block).
SST 09228–07500
(b) Clean the filter contact surface on the filter mounting.
(c) Apply clean engine oil to the gasket of a new oil filter.
(d) Tighten the filter by hand until the gasket contacts the
seat of the filter mounting. Then using SST, give it an
additional 3/4 turn to seat the filter.
SST 09228–07500
3. FILL WITH ENGINE OIL
(a) Clean and install the oil drain plug with a new gasket.
(b) Fill the engine with new oil, API grade SG Energy –
Conserving ll multigrade and recommended viscosity
oil.
4. START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS
5. RECHECK ENGINE LEVEL
Recheck the engine oil level and refill as necessary.
(a) Remove the oil filler cap.
(b) Remove the oil dipstick.
(c) Remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil into a
container.
2. REPLACE OIL FILTER
(a) Using SST, remove the oil filter (located on left side of
the cylinder block).
SST 09228–07500
(b) Clean the filter contact surface on the filter mounting.
(c) Apply clean engine oil to the gasket of a new oil filter.
(d) Tighten the filter by hand until the gasket contacts the
seat of the filter mounting. Then using SST, give it an
additional 3/4 turn to seat the filter.
SST 09228–07500
3. FILL WITH ENGINE OIL
(a) Clean and install the oil drain plug with a new gasket.
(b) Fill the engine with new oil, API grade SG Energy –
Conserving ll multigrade and recommended viscosity
oil.
4. START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS
5. RECHECK ENGINE LEVEL
Recheck the engine oil level and refill as necessary.
You might even call it's being a necessary step a "myth". Though it does seem to make some logical sense, so you won't hear me call it that.
But, how come it's not included in the installation instructions on the oil filter packaging? If it's really so crucially important, wouldn't it be a good idea to let the consumer be aware of that "fact"? Just food for thought.
Last edited by MudHippy; 01-05-2011 at 07:36 PM.
01-05-2011, 11:53 PM
#13
The only time I fill a new oil filter is when the filter goes on straight up other wise it is a big mess
We have a 3 phase generator diesel that the oil filter faces straight down when you screw it on or off taking it off you need lots of rags
Most engines the oil goes through the main bearings before the filter it is the upper end of the engine that sees oil last
We have a 3 phase generator diesel that the oil filter faces straight down when you screw it on or off taking it off you need lots of rags
Most engines the oil goes through the main bearings before the filter it is the upper end of the engine that sees oil last
01-06-2011, 07:39 AM
#14
Registered User
Toyota engines, like most modern engines, have a "full flow" oil filter design, meaning 100% of the oil passes through the filter, and then on to crank and cam. That's why the filters have a bypass valve, because otherwise a clogged filter will prevent oil flow. In fact defects in the design of AMSOIL Ea oil filters resulted in numerous cases of the oil light coming on in Toyota engines, due to clogging of the filter media and apparently a failed bypass valve design. AMSOIL issued a TSB blaming the problem on Toyota engines, but the fact is that if the bypass valve worked, oil would continue to flow through a clogged filter, and in the case of the AMSOIL filters, it didn't.
01-06-2011, 11:04 AM
#15
If you go and get your oil changed anywhere, almost 100% of the time, there will be no priming of the filter, and most of the time not even oil on the seal. When I was blowing up the cash for clunkers cars, I would drain all of the oil, put the "liquid glass" into the crankcase, start the car and drive about 300 yards, park the car and rev it to red line for about 3 minutes before the motor would give up. I do prime the filter on my own truck, but when I do oil changes at work, unless it is a major motor job, I don't put anything in the filter, I do oil the seal, but I don't think that it would cause an issue if you don't prime the filter. Unless you have been doing the oil changes since new, it's a pretty good bet that it hasn't been done in the past.
02-10-2011, 09:05 AM
#16
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Thanks everyone. I seemed to figure out my main problem by changing my fuel filter. I found the small panel that comes off in the wheel well. It's brilliant, I can get to the oil filter no problem now.
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