Proper rear main replacement
#1
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Proper rear main replacement
I just did some work to my toyota and among the things I did was replace the rear main seal (On a 3.0L turbo diesel....) anyway it uses the same kind of retainer system as other toyota engines and my question is this. What is the correct placement of the seal in relation to the edge of the retainer? Mine actually pushed in past the edge toward the block, and on top of that it looked like the retainer's edge was beveled toward the engine block, so what is supposed to keep the seal out flush with the edge of the retainer? I ask because now instead of some occasional drips, I'm getting a really cool flow out of the rear main, and by really cool, I mean I want to #%^$#@^@$^!%^!)!#$%*$#%)*$_#*)^%!)#$^_#%*()$_^*()! !!!!! Thanks for any input.
Also, any thoughts on when I go back in there, just putting another seal on top of that one so that it sits flush with the edge of the retainer? Plus I'll have two rear main seals!! There looks like there is enough room to do this.....
Also, any thoughts on when I go back in there, just putting another seal on top of that one so that it sits flush with the edge of the retainer? Plus I'll have two rear main seals!! There looks like there is enough room to do this.....
#2
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i usually just tap them in until there flush, but Ive also put them in all the way until they stop. both ways with no problems..
the way your describing it, sounds like you damaged the seal during installation..
how did you "finesse" it in there?
the way your describing it, sounds like you damaged the seal during installation..
how did you "finesse" it in there?
#3
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The seal wasn't damaged, I slid it carefully over the crank and then tapped it all around while holding the side 180* out from where I was tapping. It kept bouncing out at first but I just kept at it and it tapped in (nice and gentle) but when it did, the side 180* out from where I was tapping recessed so I evened the whole thing out (recessed). I obviously did something wrong, I think the seal has to be flush with the retainer edge to work properly, I just don't know why it would be set up to easily recess like that, maybe make removal easier?
#4
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The seal wasn't damaged, I slid it carefully over the crank and then tapped it all around while holding the side 180* out from where I was tapping. It kept bouncing out at first but I just kept at it and it tapped in (nice and gentle) but when it did, the side 180* out from where I was tapping recessed so I evened the whole thing out (recessed). I obviously did something wrong, I think the seal has to be flush with the retainer edge to work properly, I just don't know why it would be set up to easily recess like that, maybe make removal easier?
sometimes the seal itself will ware a groove in the crank.. that could be it?
if thats the case, search speedy sleeve. i think thats what its called.
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Some of the diesel guys have said the problem is tapping it in too far. It needs to be just flush with the retainer. The motor only has 60K on it so the crank looked fine. Damn it's gonna be a pita redoing that!
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