Plumbrbob

I searched around and did not find an answer to my problem most people have a problem with low oil pressure I have too much pressure? any ideas? here is my story~~>

I just swaped in a used 83 22R last week everything is tip top with it compression checked out good 135psi close to even numbers cylinder to cylinder, temp holds 190F, oil pressure 25psi at idle 75psi when cruising, timed and tuned weber and got a steady idle and sounds and feels real healthy.

So last wensday I was out on Scott Turner Rd. doing a vehical recovery and I got the RPM's way up there pulling with my stretchy strap. The oil pressure went to 100psi and shot oil out the dip stick seal. It also made a sound like an air compressor blow off. In fact when I rev the holy crap out it the crank breather tube spits oil in my air filter assembly.

So I checked the PCV valve and it was blocked no biggie I cleaned it up and got it to work again hooked it back up to the vaccum. So I rev the motor up again and I watch the PSI bury on or over the 100psi mark? Now oil has pushed past my front/rear seals and is getting passed the valve cover seal/half moon seals.

So any ideas ?

camo31_10.50

ease up on the motor DAMN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:dom o::oops

i've seen my '80 20R get close to 90psi before...i was gettin on it pretty hard....never close to 100 though..

Plumbrbob

Is this the nature of the early block22R? I have reved up my late block to this point without a problem best I have seen is 80psi

camo31_10.50

might be...idk though

although it sounds like you just blew a few seals....like your front and rear mains..

the half moon seals are a crock..idk how they dont leak oil constantly

Plumbrbob

I always put some right stuff gasket maker onthe half moons and they stay dry. I had to cleanoff the valve cover seal and put sealant on the halfmoons that should stop it.

I know I blew my front and rear seals I mentioned that I can replace those but its gonna suck If it happens again.

I need to figure it out before I go wheeling again or try to remedy the situtaion I have been thinking about cutting out more material in the crank vent manifold to get the pressure flowing out of it more?

I wont fix the seals until I figure it out I will be replacing this motor in a month but i have many wheeling trip from now to then.

Plumbrbob

bump for more ideas ?

drew303

FYI, 135psi is very low. You did your compression test not at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). Whenever you do a compression test you need to open the throttle body completely. You should see readings around 175-180psi.

maybe you have to much oil in the motor? How many quarts you got in there? Might as well get the obvious out of the way.

And how high are you revving it? I wouldn't comfortably take any 20-22r that's fairly stock over 4500rpm personally. They sound like they wanna fly apart after that anyway IMO. They can take more but still.... Theres no power up past 4500 anyway so there is no point.

You shouldn't ever have oil coming out of the motor, from any seal regardless. But to have oil coming out of the oil dipstick is bizarre to say the least.

I doubt this happened after you got the PCV valve functioning? The crankcase should have neutral pressure. It's a sump and vented (pcv).... so if you're blowing oil out past your FRONT (never even heard of someone having that seal fail) .. but out the front and rear main seals then I'd say you have a crankcase ventilation issue. Maybe your PCV isnt recieving the vaccum it should from that webber?

drew303

What did you do with the front vent on the front of the valve cover? Normally it is connected to the airfilter/intake on a stock 22r. I know the webbers don't offer any kind of connection for it. So you should leave it open (id atleast put a tube on it) or stick a filter over it but it shouldnt be blocked.

Plumbrbob

How can 135psi be that bad as long as all cylinders are even I understand this is not the best numbers but is even and solid. I am rebuilding my stroker motor as we speak this is just donor until my real motor gets built.

I am not a freaking idoit dude! I had my throttle open of course & I dont over fill my motor with oil. I take insult to that comment WTF?

About the RPM issue I am revving up to red line. Nothing out of the normal for hardcore wheeling. I am not revvingpast the red just for fun dude.

Drew i mentioned in my first post that I fixed the PCV valve it was clogged.

You have never heard of a front seal leak? LOL are you from mars? I know at least a dozen people in the last few years that had front seal failure and I had to help them fix it.

um drew do you really think i am having crank case ventalation issues? I am pretty sure I figured out that one. LOL

PCV vaccum issue The weber does not control the vaccum the PCV valve is dirctly connected to the intake manifold. Also when I tune my motors I use a vaccum gauge and it reads good steady vaccum in the green.

About the front ventalation port on the valve cover, there is a hole in the weber air filter assembly for this vent you just have to run some tube to it. It has been this way for 10 years.

look man I am trying to pool in some minds here to figure this out, I have a few ideas of my own but I dont need to be bashed about doing stupid stuff!

What I need real input from intellegent mechanical minds not stupid blabber.

LD

did you check compression after that happened? maybe a blow by issue. or oil pressure relief valve stuck or clogged?

drew303

Wow, you're real mature. You did post in the newbie tech section incase you forgot.

drew303

at 135 PSI, excessive blow by is highly likely and is probably causing a fairly hefty positive pressure in the crank which would explain why oil is getting pushed out past the seals when he's 'redlining' the 22R.

Plumbrbob

wow your real smart mouth eh

Plumbrbob

Thanks man no i did not check the compression after all that happened. Hmmm good thinking maybe the HG is not holding during high rev situations? intresting. Oil blow off clogged another good idea I did not think of......I'll do some investigating into that

Plumbrbob

Well I changed my filter yesterday so that should be good

hopefully I can find this Pressure regualtor valve to be the culprit, I will re-check compression again after messing with the regulator.

Thanks man I appreciate the Re-direction

This morning I took my valve cover off and removed the PCV valve manifold to check for blockage,there was none and put new seals on everything up top since I have extras from past rebuilds.

Given the high milage of this motor I can hope to find build up in the spring loaded valve and give it a spring cleaning.

camo31_10.50

when i check my compression...i take all the plugs out..and do it cylinder by cylinder...and i always got close to 200..across all 4 cylinders..whats this about you revving your motor to check the compression....compression is compression....no matter the RPM's...

Plumbrbob

Yes camo I take all the plugs out too its easier to crank the motor over.

According to the book 200psi is excessive and may be an indicator of high carbon deposits for a non turbo 4cyl numbers should be in the 171-128 range.

I understand 135psi is not the best numbers but it is within range and is fairly even from cylinder to cylinder. This is my $200 CL 83 22R motor that I sold off the alternator/carb/3rd row pulley/distrubuter off it to make it a $125ish donor until I finish rebuilding my late block LCE/Enginebuilder stroker motor that I spun a bearing on.

where does it say reving the motor to check for compression i dont even know how that is possible? LOL

Anyways LD man your a fricken genuis!

I pulled the oil regualtor cap on the oil pump pulled out the spring and attempted to get to the plunger removed without removing the oil pump

Luckly I have a few extra pumps laying around to test fit with different sockets to make an extractor tool since a pencil magnet was a failed attempt.

A deep 8mm 1/4 drive socket was a tight fit with a light tap tap. I fitted the socket in there and tried for a while to extract this plunger it was caked and seized with gook. After spraying a few different lubes in the hole I finally worked it loose. It was black and crusty that made me happy. I cleaned it up and reassembled.

Went for a test drive and driving the motor real hard to see if I can get those psi's to spike and it would not budge over 75psi LOL AWESOME I was laughing at the simplicity of the problem.

Now I typicaly dont watch my Tach gauge but i glanced at it right before I let off the gas and what I considered a high rev was approx at 4300rpms, I typically drive by ear.

So now that the pressure spike is fixed I am going to pull the motor out and replace all the F/R seals and redo the oil pan gasket before I go on my hardcore wheeling trip to Elbe this weekend.

No big deal about pulling the motor I was going to pull the tranny this week to pull off the OEM clutch I left on this motor, I need to get my centerforce back to work I already smoked this OEM clutch playing around last week.

My motor is so simple I can have it out in a couple hours and back in about the same time. Its the in between stuff that takes time. Its still only a one day affair.

Thanks again LD, beer is on me if you get around the Tacoma area

camo31_10.50

right there he says the throttle body needs to WIDE OPEN..that isnt going to affect anything..as the motor will not be running

Plumbrbob

It is required to open the throttle fully when performing a compression check. My understanding of this step is to allow normal air to enter the combustion chamber while performing the test

It is in the compression check procedure.

ahickman

If you don't have WOT conditions, the piston is having to draw against low pressure conditions to fill the cylinder. This would lower your resulting compression value.