Looking To Build 4-Runner
#1
Looking To Build 4-Runner
Hello everyone,
I'm in the process of selling a 1966 Ford Bronco that I used as a trail rig for many years. Once I have it sold, I'm going to be building another off-road vehicle.
I'm either going to be going full tube buggy, or I'm going to build something that I can smash up and not be too concerned about. If I build another full body rig, I will probably have some form of an exo-cage.
I'm leaning heavily on building either a toyota truck or a toyota 4-runner, but I'm starting to sweat the details. I'm going to stay selective, and shoot for an 85. I have time on my side, as this project won't be a daily driver.. But, I want to know what I should be on the look out for, and what is important or not important.
One of the major concerns I have is axle strength. I have been told that a toyota 8.8 (I beleive that is the ring gear size) measures up to a dana 44.. Well, I'm blowing 44s apart right now and only running 35s. I want to run at least 37s on this next project. Can I build the axle (within reason) to live spinning 37s?
If I do find an 85, I plan on going 5-speed, dual t-cases, and probably either 4.88s or 5.13s in the axles. I will either spool or detroit the rear, and will detroit the front. What else do I need to worry about? I'm going to keep the lift as low as possible, and hog out the fenders as much as I can.
I'm going to have a budget of around $13,000 for the build, which will have to include the purchase of the vehicle since I do not already own one.
Let me put it this way to those of you that have been around these trucks for a long time. Knowing everything that you know now, if you wanted to build a trail only vehicle that saw the street on occasion, and you had my budget.. How would you do it?
Thanks in advance for any advice!
I'm in the process of selling a 1966 Ford Bronco that I used as a trail rig for many years. Once I have it sold, I'm going to be building another off-road vehicle.
I'm either going to be going full tube buggy, or I'm going to build something that I can smash up and not be too concerned about. If I build another full body rig, I will probably have some form of an exo-cage.
I'm leaning heavily on building either a toyota truck or a toyota 4-runner, but I'm starting to sweat the details. I'm going to stay selective, and shoot for an 85. I have time on my side, as this project won't be a daily driver.. But, I want to know what I should be on the look out for, and what is important or not important.
One of the major concerns I have is axle strength. I have been told that a toyota 8.8 (I beleive that is the ring gear size) measures up to a dana 44.. Well, I'm blowing 44s apart right now and only running 35s. I want to run at least 37s on this next project. Can I build the axle (within reason) to live spinning 37s?
If I do find an 85, I plan on going 5-speed, dual t-cases, and probably either 4.88s or 5.13s in the axles. I will either spool or detroit the rear, and will detroit the front. What else do I need to worry about? I'm going to keep the lift as low as possible, and hog out the fenders as much as I can.
I'm going to have a budget of around $13,000 for the build, which will have to include the purchase of the vehicle since I do not already own one.
Let me put it this way to those of you that have been around these trucks for a long time. Knowing everything that you know now, if you wanted to build a trail only vehicle that saw the street on occasion, and you had my budget.. How would you do it?
Thanks in advance for any advice!
#2
Contributing Member
Welcome to the forum! : bigok:
You may be better off buying a 86-89 4runner and performing the SAS youreself. You may come out cheaper in the long run.
As far as blowing up D-44s; If you use Longfields 30 spline Chromo axles and birfs, you will be fine. here
if you are looking to build a tube bugy, you may want to look into building a Formula toy (F-Toy). they are fairly cheap to build and only use a toyota frame. Check out this thread.... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f88/punchin-out-036-a-84151/
God luck and keep us updated with youre progress.
You may be better off buying a 86-89 4runner and performing the SAS youreself. You may come out cheaper in the long run.
As far as blowing up D-44s; If you use Longfields 30 spline Chromo axles and birfs, you will be fine. here
if you are looking to build a tube bugy, you may want to look into building a Formula toy (F-Toy). they are fairly cheap to build and only use a toyota frame. Check out this thread.... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f88/punchin-out-036-a-84151/
God luck and keep us updated with youre progress.
#4
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#5
Great ideas so far..
Seaflea, why would I come out cheaper in the long run? Obviously I'm not concerned about doing a SAS, but I figured it would be nice to find one with the axle and fuel injection in place.
Only getting ready to start this project. I still need to sell the bronco first. I'm tossing it up on ebay in a few days.
Seaflea, why would I come out cheaper in the long run? Obviously I'm not concerned about doing a SAS, but I figured it would be nice to find one with the axle and fuel injection in place.
Only getting ready to start this project. I still need to sell the bronco first. I'm tossing it up on ebay in a few days.
#6
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by md_lucky_13
building another off-road vehicle.
I'm either going to be going full tube buggy, or I'm going to build something that I can smash up and not be too concerned about. If I build another full body rig, I will probably have some form of an exo-cage.
as this project won't be a daily driver..
Well, I'm blowing 44s apart right now and only running 35s. I want to run at least 37s on this next project. Can I build the axle (within reason) to live spinning 37s?
If I do find an 85, I plan on going 5-speed, dual t-cases, and probably either 4.88s or 5.13s in the axles. I will either spool or detroit the rear, and will detroit the front. What else do I need to worry about? I'm going to keep the lift as low as possible, and hog out the fenders as much as I can.
I'm going to have a budget of around $13,000 for the build, which will have to include the purchase of the vehicle since I do not already own one.
Let me put it this way to those of you that have been around these trucks for a long time. Knowing everything that you know now, if you wanted to build a trail only vehicle that saw the street on occasion, and you had my
budget.. How would you do it?
I'm either going to be going full tube buggy, or I'm going to build something that I can smash up and not be too concerned about. If I build another full body rig, I will probably have some form of an exo-cage.
as this project won't be a daily driver..
Well, I'm blowing 44s apart right now and only running 35s. I want to run at least 37s on this next project. Can I build the axle (within reason) to live spinning 37s?
If I do find an 85, I plan on going 5-speed, dual t-cases, and probably either 4.88s or 5.13s in the axles. I will either spool or detroit the rear, and will detroit the front. What else do I need to worry about? I'm going to keep the lift as low as possible, and hog out the fenders as much as I can.
I'm going to have a budget of around $13,000 for the build, which will have to include the purchase of the vehicle since I do not already own one.
Let me put it this way to those of you that have been around these trucks for a long time. Knowing everything that you know now, if you wanted to build a trail only vehicle that saw the street on occasion, and you had my
budget.. How would you do it?
You need to build a buggy. Period. The trails you run and/or the way you drive is beyond what you should have a full bodied truck on. Otherwise, all you're doing is carrying around a lot of extra weight that's going to get in the way and bent to hell anyways.
FYI - 5.13 is not available in Toyota gears. Toyota ratios are 4.10, 4.30, 4.56, 4.88, 5.29, and 5.71
Diamond Axle housings with cryo Longfield CroMoly 30 splines are supposed to be tougher than D60 even, but will take a huge chunk out of that $13k.
http://longfieldsuperaxles.com/graph.html
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#9
Contributing Member
This will be fun to watch......
<jumps into flame resistant long-johns and face shield>
Have any pics of the bronco? I'm a huge fan of the EB's and am itching for a chace at some point to possibly purchase and rebuild one.
<jumps into flame resistant long-johns and face shield>
Have any pics of the bronco? I'm a huge fan of the EB's and am itching for a chace at some point to possibly purchase and rebuild one.
#10
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by md_lucky_13
Great ideas so far..
Seaflea, why would I come out cheaper in the long run? Obviously I'm not concerned about doing a SAS, but I figured it would be nice to find one with the axle and fuel injection in place.
Only getting ready to start this project. I still need to sell the bronco first. I'm tossing it up on ebay in a few days.
Seaflea, why would I come out cheaper in the long run? Obviously I'm not concerned about doing a SAS, but I figured it would be nice to find one with the axle and fuel injection in place.
Only getting ready to start this project. I still need to sell the bronco first. I'm tossing it up on ebay in a few days.
and the rear is the same. It is a bit of work, but with youre backround you can do it cheaper than buying an 85 and doing everything to it.
Hope this helps a bit.
Where is the Bronco for sale. Please give me a link. I have a friend looking for one right now.
#11
Here are the specs:
It is located in Moscow, Idaho.
If he is interested, PM me and I will send you my cell phone number... Judging from your sig, I think N.C. might be a bit of a stretch to drive..
1966 Ford Bronco
5.5" Wild Horses Suspension Lift
Dual Rancho 9000 Shocks Every Corner
35" Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs (85-90% tread) on 15" Ultra Aluminum Wheels
4.10 Gearing
Fuel Injected 351w
-Holley Pro-Jection
-Mallory Electronic Ignition
-New Double Roller Timing Chain
-Ron Davis Aluminum Radiator With Dual Electric Fans
-Wild Horses Extreme Duty Motor Mounts
Power Steering
Power Drum Brakes
-New Stainless Steel Extended Brake Lines
C-4 Automatic Transmission
(I feel this transmission needs rebuilt. I have no problem driving it the way it is, but it shifts HARD. I have been told that it may only need a vacuum module, but I don't mind the shifting enough to tear into it.)
Dana 20 Transfercase
-Twin Sticked
Dana 44 Front
-Lock Right Locker
-Warn Diff Cover
-New Adjustable Tie Rod
-Rebuilt
Ford 9" Rear
-Detroit Locker
-Rebuilt
New Wild Horses Extreme Drivelines
New Wiring Harness Throughout
-Battery has less then 8 months
Front/Rear Urathane Fender Flares
Shelby Seats Front With 4-Point Racing Harnesses
Rear Stock Seat
STC Top With Tinted Windows
New Carpet Kit
Full Roll Cage front occupants
Front Wiper Dual Electric Motors
23 Gallon Rear Fuel Tank
Hurculined wheel wells, under hood, and floor/interior.
Custom built front winch bumper
Custom built rear tire carry bumper with swing
Took the body entirely off the frame and did all the suspension work. All of the shock hoops and custom frame work are painted red. The body is white, and all of the bumpers and rocker guards are black, using a spray on bed liner. The top is also black. The entire passanger compartment has been hurculined in order to reduce noise and make cleanup easier. Even the front passanger compartment is hurculined under the carpet.
What does it need?
There is some body damage on the front passanger side. The front passanger fender has a large dent, and the rear passanger fender flare has been broken. There is also a dent in the rocker panel.
The paint is missing in a few spots, most notable under the rear lisence plate. I have touched up some areas just to keep rust from starting, but I would hit it again in a few spots if I wanted a show truck. For an off-road vehicle, it is in absolutely incredible condition.
The transmission needs work, as I mentioned before. I drive it all day, every day without concern. However, I don't want anyone to question the condition in any way. I would highly recommend a rebuild to be 100%.
I probably have around $22,000-$25,000 in this Bronco over the past 8 years.
Pictures can be viewed at www.classicbronco.cjb.net. So there is no confusion, it is the white and black bronco on that website. There are other pictures on the site of other broncos... But only one White and Black Bronco.
It is located in Moscow, Idaho.
If he is interested, PM me and I will send you my cell phone number... Judging from your sig, I think N.C. might be a bit of a stretch to drive..
1966 Ford Bronco
5.5" Wild Horses Suspension Lift
Dual Rancho 9000 Shocks Every Corner
35" Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs (85-90% tread) on 15" Ultra Aluminum Wheels
4.10 Gearing
Fuel Injected 351w
-Holley Pro-Jection
-Mallory Electronic Ignition
-New Double Roller Timing Chain
-Ron Davis Aluminum Radiator With Dual Electric Fans
-Wild Horses Extreme Duty Motor Mounts
Power Steering
Power Drum Brakes
-New Stainless Steel Extended Brake Lines
C-4 Automatic Transmission
(I feel this transmission needs rebuilt. I have no problem driving it the way it is, but it shifts HARD. I have been told that it may only need a vacuum module, but I don't mind the shifting enough to tear into it.)
Dana 20 Transfercase
-Twin Sticked
Dana 44 Front
-Lock Right Locker
-Warn Diff Cover
-New Adjustable Tie Rod
-Rebuilt
Ford 9" Rear
-Detroit Locker
-Rebuilt
New Wild Horses Extreme Drivelines
New Wiring Harness Throughout
-Battery has less then 8 months
Front/Rear Urathane Fender Flares
Shelby Seats Front With 4-Point Racing Harnesses
Rear Stock Seat
STC Top With Tinted Windows
New Carpet Kit
Full Roll Cage front occupants
Front Wiper Dual Electric Motors
23 Gallon Rear Fuel Tank
Hurculined wheel wells, under hood, and floor/interior.
Custom built front winch bumper
Custom built rear tire carry bumper with swing
Took the body entirely off the frame and did all the suspension work. All of the shock hoops and custom frame work are painted red. The body is white, and all of the bumpers and rocker guards are black, using a spray on bed liner. The top is also black. The entire passanger compartment has been hurculined in order to reduce noise and make cleanup easier. Even the front passanger compartment is hurculined under the carpet.
What does it need?
There is some body damage on the front passanger side. The front passanger fender has a large dent, and the rear passanger fender flare has been broken. There is also a dent in the rocker panel.
The paint is missing in a few spots, most notable under the rear lisence plate. I have touched up some areas just to keep rust from starting, but I would hit it again in a few spots if I wanted a show truck. For an off-road vehicle, it is in absolutely incredible condition.
The transmission needs work, as I mentioned before. I drive it all day, every day without concern. However, I don't want anyone to question the condition in any way. I would highly recommend a rebuild to be 100%.
I probably have around $22,000-$25,000 in this Bronco over the past 8 years.
Pictures can be viewed at www.classicbronco.cjb.net. So there is no confusion, it is the white and black bronco on that website. There are other pictures on the site of other broncos... But only one White and Black Bronco.
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