randes

Hi,
First time here. A few questions.
I'm working thru changing my head gasket.
I've struggled with it for days now. I'm learning as I go. Trying to find diagrams and pictures, in the manual and online, of every part mentioned in the instructions. If anyone has a good source for that I would appreciate. I've taken pictures along the way.
I've gotten pretty far. I'm at the point to taking the head off, but I didn't detach the intake manifold. I got the EFI chamber off tho. I'm wondering If I need to? It looks like it would be impossible to get to the bolts. But it look like I would need to unhook the wires going thru the manifold. Another thing I was thinking was to just lift it up on a board over the engine and put the gasket on?
Any ideas on the easiest and fastest way to proceed? Also, does the charcoal canisters bottom hose attach to anything? If you're it does, I would need a diagram and/or picture, not knowing the name of all the parts.
Thanks for any help.

85TurboRunner

Definitely do that. Maybe even stack the new one on the old for extra sealing power. J/K

When I have done head gaskets in the past I leave the intake on. Some people don't though I guess its just preference. I like being able to use it as leverage to break the head loose.

As for diagrams and such, I just use a Haynes manual for the torque settings. its a pretty straight forward job, just put it back together reverse of how you took it apart.

The hose on the charcoal canister is just a drain.

Anyway if you do some searching on this board you will find tons and tons of info on HG jobs. It is a VERY common thing.

randes

I can't find this hose on a diagram. It won't just pop off.
What the best way to get this off?

randes

Fuel intake pipe? Can I take that off at the large bolt on the top and the little bolt?

Team420

I dunno what year or model you have... but this may help ya out a bit...

http://ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995_4Rn...5/contents.htm

85TurboRunner

If you haven't already gotten it off. You have to remove the 10mm bolt then you have to remove the fuel dampener (I think thats what its called) its the large thing on the front of the fuel rail.

Found a pic.

randes

92 toyota truck 22R-E
Yes that looks like the part.
I would like it to stay there tho. I want to take the hose off thats on there, it isn't coming off. I'm not sure its suppose to, I don't want to force it. If I can't get the small hose off it looks like I can take off the two bolts holding it on?
What I want to do is lift up the head up and get to the gasket. I hope I can get it high enough.
I wasn't able to get the wire off that go thru the intake manifold to take the whole thing off.
Any of that sound reasonable?

Here are some better pictures circle in the right places.

85TurboRunner

That hose has a banjo fitting that goes to the fuel dampener. Seriously its 2 bolts and then the dampener. Don't remove the hose from the fittings.

You need to completely remove the head from the truck to clean the surfaces anyway. And once you pull the head you should take it to a machine shop to get it decked if it needs it.

randes

I was shooting for taking the whole thing off, but one of the first clips I couldn't get off. I must have spent an hour. I need to get this done, its my only transportation. I need to wing it for now. I guy at O'Reily's said you don't always need to refinish the surface, is that true? I'm running out of time. Any ideas on how I can get this done? Now that you say I can't take that off I'm back to trying to take the wires off. I'll need to look for a diagram that might help me with that and how to take the clips off. There isn't a tool for that is there?
So thats where I'm at any help would be appreciated.
Thanks for the responses.

ksti

I completely agree with 85TurboRunner take off the head and do it right. I know you said you need to wing it right now, but its a bandaid and it probably wont last and you'll just have to take it apart again sooner than you think.

randes

whats the best way to get those wires off of there? know where a diagram might be. I'll start looking myself right now.
would you call those sensor wires?

85TurboRunner

Which wires are you having trouble with? Everything basically unplugs.

The only plug that is somewhat of a pain is the blue one towards the front underside of the lower intake plenum.

Use a flat head screw driver to get the clips off the connectors, thats what I do.

randes

okay, I thought I would go with, taking the intake off. Easier to get to most nuts and bolts then I thought, but I can't find the mysterious allen nut; and that thing isn't budging. I'm wondering why these manuals explain in depth certain things but not this very important job. I looked at the gasket to get a clue on where they are, it looks like I got them; so I don't know can anyone give me a clue?
Thanks

85TurboRunner

The allen head bolt goes through the thermostat housing.



I found this picture with a 2 second google search. You need to start searching a little better. All the answers are out there and readily available.

randes

I saw that I didn't think it was my engine.
Thanks got it.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

As has been said, few times, .......... take EXTRA CARE in cleaning the block VERY well before installing a new HG. Do the same with the head. Use rubbing alcohol and/or acetone, as it leaves very lil to no residue. You'd be SHOCKED how little it takes to find yourself with a leaking HG after doing what you THOUGHT was a thorough job. Mine was fairly immaculate, head resurfaced, block MILDLY decked just to make sure it was clean(it was a new to me donor block)..... And wouldn't ya know, first start, blew a Nippon-OEM HG! Couldn't find why it went wrong, other than a TINY amount of engine lube possibly getting on the surface of the HG?(can't even be sure on that).

Marking everything WELL is important.... Making sure everything like vacuum lines haven't cracked or collapsed inside, etc., all important..... Being very careful with those old, brittle connectors to the injectors, IACV, CTS, CSI time switch, TPS... all important... But if you don't clean that head and block properly, as well as chasing the head bolt threads and either using new head bolts or cleaning them well and making sure they go back in the SAME HOLES... Well, you might just be tearing it down again, ..... Even as in my case, very careful/thorough..... tearing it back down after 10 MINUTES after first start up! lol.

I TOTALLY AGREE with the person who said, "Have the head surface checked!"...

I also wanted to mention... DO NOT forget to disconnect the head block plate to chassis ground before trying to pull the head up and off! I've seen people pulling back and then 'OOPS', dropping it right back on the block, sideways, 'gouge', ouch, oops! A good shop will quickly blast all that crap off the head for ya and give it a good resurfacing for CHEAP!

Personally, if I were taking ANY old head off, next time, I'd always pull the block plate and be sure the passages are clean/clean them if not/ and replace the gasket, slap it back on and call it a day. It's 3$ for the gasket, and 5 minutes to remove it and clean it out and 5 min to slap it back on. Just don't forget to reinstall the block plate to chassis ground before putting the head back on, IF you remove the block plate and clean/replace gasket... Cuz once the head is on, it's TIGHT back there, trust me! lol.

Also, GET A NEW O-RING gasket on the wrap around pipe that installs upward/vertically into the middle of the intake. DO NOT use sealant... Just get a new o-ring crush gasket and put the thing back on there once you get the lower intake back on.

Personally, I would also replace the fuel filter while in there... WHY NOT? You're right there and it's usually on sale at the dealer(GET AN OEM ONE, not a Fram or otherwise, ok?).

Pull the head bolts out slowly, as some of them will be soaked in oil or coolant, depending on which one it is. Just saves in a mess. Then place them in labeled baggies as to which number hole they're in(numbered the same as the Haynes "removal" sequence or whatever you choose. You could just make a template.) I mention the latter cuz it seems like you're trying to do this as cheaply as possible(which MANY of us can understand, OP. Not sweating you on that, but it's just helpful to be sure they wind up back in the same holes... and that they're VERY cleaned up as much as possible without damaging them before you slap em back in/ I would use a brass or fine bristle steel wheel brush in a drill on a vice or something and then just turn the bolt with the drill locked in 'on' position... Clean em up and slap em back in the same numbered bags). Follow, thoroughly, the instructions of 'cleaning out and chasing the head bolt threads' as well, TRUST ME, it's worth it. You will be surprised how, if you don't really clean up any of that, just how DIFFICULT of a time some of those head bolts might give you. Debris is your ENEMY in this job, I PROMISE YOU THAT!

You might think I'm being anal, many might, but I don't care.... IT HELPS to get things back where they go/mark everything(especially timing cover bolts, intake bolts, vacuum hoses, etc.)

Last thing... REMOVE THE HIDDEN BOLT under the cam-distributor drive gear, first, BEFORE removing the head bolts. Removing it later can result in stressing out that bolt, as it's only rated at 11# max, IIRC. Hidden bolt, you ask? YES, it's sitting in a bath of oil, right under the Gear on the end of the CAM(which also has to be removed in order to; 1. Get that hidden bolt out and (2.) To get the CAM sprocket off the end of the CAM/securing, first, the chain to the sprocket with zip ties on both sides.(MANY illustrations in this site and 20 others, at least, as to how to secure the chain on the sprocket without 'losing your chain timing'.. BE SURE you do that properly).

Best wishes, man!

PS> CLEAN THE EGR TO INTAKE PASSAGES AND EGR ITSELF, WELL, before re-installing it! It's a TOTAL PITA to get off once you get everything back together... And you might as well get that cleaned out before you slap it all back together, right?

randes

Thanks Chef, good ideas.
I might clean that better now. But here's a couple of things. How do you get the chain and sprocket back on? The book makes it sound like it should just slip on, its not happening. Do I need to take the radiator off, the chain cover and all that?

I'm not so sure it was the head gasket giving problems. The gasket looked fine. I had that done by a pro 2 or 3 of years ago.
One shop said that's probly what it is, and some others said the same thing.
I read the post were the guy did the same thing and he thought it was the timing chain in the end. What do you think? The chain and sprocket all look new in mine.

I was loosing coolant. And later some oil. I put gasket seal solution in and that helped it for a while. Then I couldn't go 4 miles without it going thru half the coolant. I drained and flushed the radiator. And just ran coolant, it went quick. I put some more of the gasket sealant back in and it didn't work any better. With the gasket solution it would form pressure and shoot out the overflow.
I don't know if I want to put more into this.
thank for the post

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

That stuff is EVIL! NEVER use the 'stop leak' or "HG sealer"... It clogs all the tiny ports for coolant and the ports in the head get clogged up... Not good for the water pump either, nor the radiator... To get home, from a long road trip, then tear it down and rebuild the LOT? Sure... But for getting by for a year or 2? Nahhh, not good.

Usually, when the timing cover is worn through by the chain... you can look down the drivers side guide and see the bottom of it or much of it is snapped off, that allows the chain to slap into the cover and wear a whole into the water jacket, which then leaks down into the crankcase and, well, you know the rest. COULD be your problem, I'd have to look at yours to tell ya for sure. Very few ways for coolant to mix with oil.

87slosohc

If you aren't going to get the head checked atleast use copper gasket spray on the head gasket on reassembly.

randes

Okay, now you guys are making me nervous about not resurfacing the head. It was going to take about a week with this one store, but I'll try a least one more; but if I don't I'll get that copper spray. What about rubbing some of that gasket sealant?
Here's a photo of the chain. It looks good to me. No scratches that I can see, definitely not beat up. I know taking the whole cover off would be best but look down inside I don't see that its beat up or gouged. The chain was on real tight when I took it off I knew it would be hard to get back on, it really popped off and dropped down with force if that makes any sense. Back to that question, how do I get the sprocket back on the camshaft with that chain so tight? Would a real long wrench, that I don't have, get down to the tension bolt to loosen it a bit? I thought about loosening the eight bolts on the shaft getting it on the sprocket and see if I can force that down. Its so close, it wouldn't take much to get there.
What are some other ways they can mix?


I just added some pictures of the head and gasket.
The had some fluid in it and one with some on the top.

thanks for the help so far.