front four link suspension
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#8
Well the best thing I did was found a buddy with a 6.5" long arm lift on his jeep, then I took a ton of measuments of everything, the front has a track bar/lower control arms with creeper joints on the FRAME side, then clevite bushings on the AXLE side, a short arm that connects the lower arm mid point to the top of the axle in the middle ish with 2x rod ends to set your pinion angle. Then I used jeep xj front springs and custom coil buckets.
Flex is more free and the springs are softer, your leafs can only tweak so much before they bind and that's your max, creeper joints are like 40* flex, a leaf can't quite flex that much.
And as for shocks, I used BDS genaric 14" travel shocks
Flex is more free and the springs are softer, your leafs can only tweak so much before they bind and that's your max, creeper joints are like 40* flex, a leaf can't quite flex that much.
And as for shocks, I used BDS genaric 14" travel shocks
#9
How much did you pay a piece for them cause in was thinking about getting a set of fox nitro airs shocks 14" i can get some from trail gear for 261 i think it was
Last edited by Darknight84; 03-04-2012 at 08:46 PM.
#11
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There are several types of "linked" suspensions. Most people don't link the front of their rigs when SASing because of cost and difficulty level vs simplicity of tried and true leafs. Maybe someone else can chime in, but I don't think I've come across a double triangulated front 4link - too much stuff in the way, which is why a 3 link or similar parallel link setup is usually used. Do your homework, there's plenty of info out there and even kits. What yotabalt described sounds like a parallel linked setup with radius arms. Still needs a panhard/trac bar to keep axle centered. Unless you did extensive planning and/or are replicating an existing setup, you will likely have to measure for your shocks after you've cycled the suspension.
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#12
Yupp. You got it highonpottery, Its literally a copy of a jeep xj front suspension (diff angles obviously) nobody really does a triangulated 4 in front cause your center may come up and smack the oil pan. And your ps gear box on the outside. Lots of measuring. Remember check 5 times tack it up, check another 5 times and then weld. Very important to keep stuff straight. And finally cycle it before the welds, take those measurements... If it binds you did something wrong. I think you got the idea. It's not hard, but it is tedious. And very $'y...if you want a quick setup run the leafs, much easier and probably more reliable.
#13
I wanted to do leafs but the axle was already setup for the four link and it would cost me more to cut every thing off and start over i think later on i may move to springs it seems easier maybe move the link to the back i still need to drive this thing to work.
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