Daughters first vehicle starter questions
05-22-2007, 05:52 AM
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Daughters first vehicle starter questions
Hello I am helping my 16 yr old daughter get some answers to get her 1987 SR5 in good running condition. She just bought it, 139K miles, only minor dents and rust, frame very good. The things wrong are that the trans makes a noise only in 3rd and 5th and only when she accellerates, not on downshift. We were told to change the gear oil which we did and to just drive it for now but look for a used trans awhile. The other minor things are that there is a slight drip from the radiator and the rear differential drops a few drops after driving. It looks wet back there but not continuously dripping.
Is there a fix for the rear differential or an additive to help the seals?
Is it safe to try a radiator stop leak product making sure the heater is off.
Any reccommendations which product is best?
Jim and Amy
Is there a fix for the rear differential or an additive to help the seals?
Is it safe to try a radiator stop leak product making sure the heater is off.
Any reccommendations which product is best?
Jim and Amy
Last edited by amysrunner; 05-22-2007 at 05:56 AM.
05-22-2007, 06:18 AM
#2
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rear diff leask from WHERE
-- housing flange
-- pinion seal
DO NOT USE RAD STOP LEAK.
Radiator tank seams seem to leak after 8+ years. Get a new radiator.
Im guessing its a W56 trans. 5th tends to be "weak" (as in I get 100-150K on em before they go). Get a junkaryd trans or a Marlin Rebuild. IMHO dont get a local rebuild as they cost more than a Marlin rebuild...
-- housing flange
-- pinion seal
DO NOT USE RAD STOP LEAK.
Radiator tank seams seem to leak after 8+ years. Get a new radiator.
Im guessing its a W56 trans. 5th tends to be "weak" (as in I get 100-150K on em before they go). Get a junkaryd trans or a Marlin Rebuild. IMHO dont get a local rebuild as they cost more than a Marlin rebuild...
05-22-2007, 06:46 AM
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Welcome to the family
the rad... if funds are an issue you can try rad stop leak relatively safely but it might not work and [if] when you do replace the rad make sure you get the cooling system power flushed first...
the rear diff... I'd check that the drain and filler plug are properly secured first... there is also a seal on the pinion shaft but I can't remember if you can get at it without remonveing the whole third member... if funds are an issue and you don't mind an oilspot on the driveway I'd just monitor it for now unless the leak becomes serious...
the tranny... what kind of noise is it? are the syncros worn? [is it difficult to shift smoothly?]... if it just the sound of gears 'cogging' [meshing smoothly] there are some additives you can try that may help quiet it out a bit [lucas makes one]... a fresh oil change may help also... I'd actually change all the diff, transfer and tranny fluids and do an oil change in any case just to 'zero time' these items so you know where you are with them...
Hope this helped Aviator
the rad... if funds are an issue you can try rad stop leak relatively safely but it might not work and [if] when you do replace the rad make sure you get the cooling system power flushed first...
the rear diff... I'd check that the drain and filler plug are properly secured first... there is also a seal on the pinion shaft but I can't remember if you can get at it without remonveing the whole third member... if funds are an issue and you don't mind an oilspot on the driveway I'd just monitor it for now unless the leak becomes serious...
the tranny... what kind of noise is it? are the syncros worn? [is it difficult to shift smoothly?]... if it just the sound of gears 'cogging' [meshing smoothly] there are some additives you can try that may help quiet it out a bit [lucas makes one]... a fresh oil change may help also... I'd actually change all the diff, transfer and tranny fluids and do an oil change in any case just to 'zero time' these items so you know where you are with them...
Hope this helped Aviator
05-22-2007, 07:08 AM
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Rear Diff leak comes from where it connects to shaft and runs down to center bottom BUT I also see wettness around fill plug.
The 3rd and 5th noise sounds whiny but only on accelleretion not when off gas.
If I replace radiator, do I buy new? best places to buy? Or can mine be removed and repaired outside the truck so as not to hurt other passages in the system.
Is it unsafe to even use the powdered vial like JB welds Stop leak which is supposed to only react to where it hits air? Or the powdered vial of Bars?
Amy and Jim
The 3rd and 5th noise sounds whiny but only on accelleretion not when off gas.
If I replace radiator, do I buy new? best places to buy? Or can mine be removed and repaired outside the truck so as not to hurt other passages in the system.
Is it unsafe to even use the powdered vial like JB welds Stop leak which is supposed to only react to where it hits air? Or the powdered vial of Bars?
Amy and Jim
Last edited by amysrunner; 05-22-2007 at 07:28 AM.
05-22-2007, 07:15 AM
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Rear Diff leak comes from where it connects to shaft and runs down to center bottom BUT I also see wettness around fill plug.
The 3rd and 5th noise sounds whiny but only on accelleretion not when off gas.
If I replace radiator, do I buy new? best places to buy? Or can mine be removed and repaired outside the truck so as not to hurt other passages in the system.
Is it unsafe to even use the powdered vial like JB welds Stop leak which is supposed to only react to where it hits air? Or the powdered vial od Bars?
Amy and Jim
The 3rd and 5th noise sounds whiny but only on accelleretion not when off gas.
If I replace radiator, do I buy new? best places to buy? Or can mine be removed and repaired outside the truck so as not to hurt other passages in the system.
Is it unsafe to even use the powdered vial like JB welds Stop leak which is supposed to only react to where it hits air? Or the powdered vial od Bars?
Amy and Jim
No comment on the tranny.
I personally, would get a new rad. Try radiator barn. I've heard good things from other posters on this board. x2 on not using anything that you pour into the rad in order to stop it from leaking. IMHO, it's just a temporary fix and could clog up other parts of your cooling system, especially the small coolant hoses.
Troy
05-22-2007, 07:36 AM
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Well, i as always wondering that aswell amysrunner, but i came to a conclustion on it means In My Honest Opinion. Good choice on a first vehicle too! is it 4x4?
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05-22-2007, 07:43 AM
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the 22re 4 banger. She loves it and I as her dad just want to do my best to keep it running for her. She does want to learn about the maintenance and i'm glad for that. We paid 700 for it which I thought wa s a good price. There is an 86 nearby for parts that I am leaning towards buying. It has a blown head gasket but does run for a while. He said the trans worked and it has big bar bumpers, the rear one with a hitch. How much is a parts truck worth IYOP?
Jim
Jim
05-22-2007, 07:50 AM
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At a minimum - Id put in a new pinion seal.
If the pinion NUT is loose, Id also replace the crush sleeve (since I doubt you have a soild spacer conversion in there)
05-22-2007, 08:25 AM
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Do you think a Haynes or Chilton maunal will be good enough for me for the simple to medium tasks I may do? Would one of those show me how to remove the trans from a parts runner and then have it professionally installed? Which one is better Haynes or Chilton or same?
I see you are in Philly, we are on the other side of Reading. Do you have reccommended Toyota mechanics up my way? I am looking for someone that is more familiar with Toyotas and could possibly put the trans in when this one goes.
This vehicle is totally stock and original
Jim
05-22-2007, 09:09 AM
#12
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Pinion nut is BEHIND the place where the driveshaft bolts to the differential.
To get to it - remove the 4 bolts on the drive shaft.
Then you can see the pinion nut.
You have to pull the pinion nut off (its a use once item) to replace the pinion seal.
The pinion seal is not a super simple job - mainly becuase you are supposed to replace the crush sleeve if you remove the pinion nut. THe problem is that you need to get the bearing out of the way. Something that can be more difficult to do at times.
You do NOT have to remove the differential to do this repair, but it is sort of "tearing into" the differential to do the repair.
IMHO - The Haynes is better than the Chilton, but BOTH are best used to soak up spilled gear oil.... get the Factory Service Manual. Its $ (I think aroun d $80 compared to say $20) but well worth it.
For your needs the "how to keep your toyota pickup alive" is EXCELLENT. It has step by step guid for tranny R&R.
Get a GOOD tranny jack. The $100 "screw / scissor" ones are um "dangerous".
Not familiar with the Reading area... sorry.
Last I recall a W56 is around $300 used and Marlin has em rebuilt for $800-ish.
New Radiator is around $250?
To get to it - remove the 4 bolts on the drive shaft.
Then you can see the pinion nut.
You have to pull the pinion nut off (its a use once item) to replace the pinion seal.
The pinion seal is not a super simple job - mainly becuase you are supposed to replace the crush sleeve if you remove the pinion nut. THe problem is that you need to get the bearing out of the way. Something that can be more difficult to do at times.
You do NOT have to remove the differential to do this repair, but it is sort of "tearing into" the differential to do the repair.
IMHO - The Haynes is better than the Chilton, but BOTH are best used to soak up spilled gear oil.... get the Factory Service Manual. Its $ (I think aroun d $80 compared to say $20) but well worth it.
For your needs the "how to keep your toyota pickup alive" is EXCELLENT. It has step by step guid for tranny R&R.
Get a GOOD tranny jack. The $100 "screw / scissor" ones are um "dangerous".
Not familiar with the Reading area... sorry.
Last I recall a W56 is around $300 used and Marlin has em rebuilt for $800-ish.
New Radiator is around $250?
05-22-2007, 10:23 AM
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05-22-2007, 10:27 AM
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Troy
05-22-2007, 10:30 AM
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Did we make a decent purchase?
So do you think this was still a good price for the 4Runner? We paid $700, 139K miles, engine sounds good, body only has hints of rust bubbles over wheels, Frame is basically rust free. AirCon works, nice interior, three small dents and both bumpers pushed in slightly from Pensylvania's freak ice snow storm that turned snowbanks into cement last year.
When the trans goes, I'm looking at the trans fix being more than we paid for the runner possibly making the total investment more like 2000.
What do you guys think? Or does she only get to drive it till trans goes and then give up?
Jim
When the trans goes, I'm looking at the trans fix being more than we paid for the runner possibly making the total investment more like 2000.
What do you guys think? Or does she only get to drive it till trans goes and then give up?
Jim
05-22-2007, 10:30 AM
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diff filler bolt is the one you see on the back of the diff looking towards the fromt... drain is [you guessed it] the one on the botom [usually incrusted with oil and grease in my experiance] haha
like ewong said pinion bolt is the one the front of diff you have to remove the driveshaft to get to get at it the job can be a major PITA...
Haynes will get you by but a factory manual is best... there is a member here that has the manual available on cdrom at a very good price... try a search for "factory manual cd-rom" or the like...
If it is just a little gear whine I would'nt worry too much for now like I said try a fluid change for starters...
Aviator
On further thought I'd go with a new rad probably cheaper in the long run...
like ewong said pinion bolt is the one the front of diff you have to remove the driveshaft to get to get at it the job can be a major PITA...
Haynes will get you by but a factory manual is best... there is a member here that has the manual available on cdrom at a very good price... try a search for "factory manual cd-rom" or the like...
If it is just a little gear whine I would'nt worry too much for now like I said try a fluid change for starters...
Aviator
On further thought I'd go with a new rad probably cheaper in the long run...
05-22-2007, 10:46 AM
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diff filler bolt is the one you see on the back of the diff looking towards the fromt... drain is [you guessed it] the one on the botom [usually incrusted with oil and grease in my experiance] haha
like ewong said pinion bolt is the one the front of diff you have to remove the driveshaft to get to get at it the job can be a major PITA...
Haynes will get you by but a factory manual is best... there is a member here that has the manual available on cdrom at a very good price... try a search for "factory manual cd-rom" or the like...
If it is just a little gear whine I would'nt worry too much for now like I said try a fluid change for starters...
Aviator
On further thought I'd go with a new rad probably cheaper in the long run...
like ewong said pinion bolt is the one the front of diff you have to remove the driveshaft to get to get at it the job can be a major PITA...
Haynes will get you by but a factory manual is best... there is a member here that has the manual available on cdrom at a very good price... try a search for "factory manual cd-rom" or the like...
If it is just a little gear whine I would'nt worry too much for now like I said try a fluid change for starters...
Aviator
On further thought I'd go with a new rad probably cheaper in the long run...
05-22-2007, 11:11 AM
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What about if I do buy the 1986 parts 4Runner and it's radiator is not leaking? Is it still reccommended to get a new one for how important the radiator is? I could probably get the whole parts truck for the price of the new radiator but am I asking for trouble by installing a used radiator? the parts truck runs for a short while before the head gasket leak shows so I might be able to check for decent flow after it is warmed up. If I did buy the parts truck I would insist on driving it quick to hear all the gears to know that it's trans was OK. Any thoughts?
