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4.56 Gears

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Old 06-06-2010, 10:12 PM
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4.56 Gears

Ok, i'm kinda new to the scene here. but in the next few weeks ill be getting 31" TW MTR's. I have the 22re 5sp with 160k. So its not fast. Currently i have kinda worn 30". With 31's it will be downright unbearable. i am looking into 4.56's but i have no idea where to get them and how much to spend. i also don't know how to install them so a write up would be helpful too. I appreciate any/all help.
Old 06-06-2010, 10:17 PM
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Marlin Crawler
http://www.marlincrawler.com/differe...inion/rp-hilux

Gears can get tricky if you've never done this before, it is some of the more challenging projects IMO. Yotatech will supply the write ups of course, just dig around a bit
Old 06-06-2010, 10:19 PM
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4.88;s is the deal. just do it. don't listen to anybody that says different..
Old 06-06-2010, 10:21 PM
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i'm only running 31s though. i do a lot of highway driving so wont i be wailing down the road?
Old 06-06-2010, 10:39 PM
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If you don't plan on lifting the truck and installing anything more than a 31in tire i would go with 456 otherwise I would go with 488s. In my mazda b2600i i swapped 4:44s in it from 4:30s when I put the suspension lift on and put 31s on it and I have plenty of power to pass on the highway in 5th gear but the motor is higher up in the rpm scale so my gas mileage has gone down so it is a trade off. I would call randys ring and pinion they have good deals on gears and installation.
Old 06-06-2010, 10:44 PM
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I would just need to buy the gears. I do all my own work to save dough. is there a randy's outlet in Port angeles?
Old 06-06-2010, 10:44 PM
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Not another gear debate lol

roughly +250 RPM per increase in gears
generally, its:
31" 4.56
33" 4.88 DD 5.29 Trail Rig

Speedometer readings are correct with 4.56 to 31" and 4.88 to 33"

If this is a DD I would go with 4.56 if your running 31's, just my opinion. 4.88 would be torquey, but would have higher RPM's for freeway speeds
Old 06-06-2010, 10:45 PM
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not to jack the thread or anything,

but i just ordered my soft 8s, and im due to get some 31's BFG ATs put on next week

will that with the 4.10s really turn the truck into that much of a turd?

hijack over
Old 06-06-2010, 10:48 PM
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4.56's it is then. now i need to know where to get a good deal on them. where is an online dealer that is good for gears? also... how messy of a job am i getting into with gears?
Old 06-06-2010, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 95yota22repickup
I would just need to buy the gears. I do all my own work to save dough. is there a randy's outlet in Port angeles?
Dude, I know there is one in Everett off of Airport road. Roll over to Silverdale and ferry over to Edmonds and it's like twenty minutes.

Wait...is it Port Townsend I'm thinkin?
Old 06-06-2010, 10:54 PM
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i know where everett is. would i be able to just buy the gears? or is it a package deal? i'm guessing gearing prolly cost a lot for a shop to do.
Old 06-06-2010, 10:59 PM
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Yeah, they could be pricey. I've never re-geared and I'm pushing 315's, only cus I don't really know how to do it.

But, like you I do all my work to my truck.

ARB is down in Kent, not sure their pricing, but they do will call. Order up from them and pick up from authorized vendor.

NIX99 is also a good spot for previously used Yota parts, they are in Lynnwood. If you ask for DeathCougar and tell them you were recommended from YT they hook you up with discount.
Old 06-06-2010, 11:02 PM
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not to be pickey but i want a "new" gear ratio. not a used one. i'm just worried about not being able to find a good write up on it or a place to buy them.
Old 06-06-2010, 11:03 PM
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You would buy the gears and a set up kit which would consist of bearings for the third member. I only paid 2 hundered to have them set up the ring and pinion in the rear end of my truck plus the 300 for gears and bearings but remember you would have to have a matching set installed in your front third member to have a matching set front and rear.
Old 06-06-2010, 11:08 PM
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ok. so i would have to regear the front as well? i've been reading on YT and no where does it say this.
Old 06-06-2010, 11:30 PM
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Opps, I wasn't paying attention on "new gears"

Search for threads about tire size and which gear.

I'm sure someone will hook you up with a link on where to pick some up.

Try Wheelers offroad, Grants Pass OR.

Olympic 4x4 in Snohomish, 4wheel Parts Lynnwood, or check the Marlin website

http://www.oly4x4.com/

http://advanceadapters.com/category/...rsion+Packages.

http://wheelersoffroad.com/

these may be a start, but not sure

Last edited by Jdizzydub; 06-06-2010 at 11:34 PM. Reason: added links
Old 06-07-2010, 05:04 AM
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Yes, you need to regear both. Other wise your front wheels will be spinning at a different speed than the rears causing your tcase to bind.

Id hit the junk yards. 4runners with 3.0 and auto tranny came stock with 4.56. They you just swap out the whole third.

But if you want new gears, you should throw a locker in there while you have it all apart
Old 06-07-2010, 07:27 AM
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Geezus people. Why the hell I took the time to put all the links needed for a gear swap together, I will never know.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...osting-204178/

Yes, if you are a 5 speed and you want 31's with a 22re, 4.56's are your best choice, especially if you want to daily drive it.



Yes, you have to regear front and rear to match. If not, the first time you throw it in 4wd your rig will start bucking and eventually blow up your diff or transfer case.

New gears? Not completely necessary, but absolutely your choice. I searched down a set of gears on craigslist, inspected them before I bought, and have had zero problems with them. Got the set for $220, with gear oil and rtv the job was $250 total.



You can try and guess what ratio went to what rig (auto's came typically with 4.30's and 4.88's, manuals with 4.10's and 4.56's. But much easier to count the teeth or count revolutions, because there is always exceptions to the rule. If you are calling around to places, use the axle code so they can check and see if they have them, then inspect them when you get there.



please read the links, everything is there, including how to threads on swapping them out. But more importantly, please remember it and post it up for others. It IS a sticky, for good reason.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...osting-204178/


I say find people parting toyotas on CL and have them look up the axle code for you (g254 or g252 are 4.56's, v6 and I4 respectively) I have close to 200k on my rear third and it makes zero noise.



Hope it works out for you, regearing with the 31's Is the best upgrade I have done.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...osting-204178/



And BTW, if you are looking into just buying a ring and pinion and just installing it, its harder then it looks. Tool around on Zuk's site, you will see what he does to get these things right. If you don't have the right tools to get get proper gear meshing, you will blow up your diffs in a hurry. If you are not familiar with this, I would find a reputable shop for the install. I was quoted $500 for my front diff to get regeared this way, before I found one going for $100 on craigslist from someone doing a SAS and they didn't need the IFS front diff anymore.

Last edited by kiyobrown; 06-07-2010 at 07:48 AM.
Old 06-07-2010, 08:12 AM
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Old 06-07-2010, 06:12 PM
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Ok so i've read pretty much every sticky you posted and it seems that i can tackle this. What better way to get familiar with doing this than actually doing it right?
I will entertain the craigslist idea because it seems i might save at least 100$ by doing that.
This might not happen until late june maybe july. i've been reading about it and it might be the best idea while the diff is out to put an aussie locker in. i mainly go offroading on forest roads and rocky trails where one back wheel is off the ground and i think that would be the best thing to do.
One thing i have yet to find is how to actually get the member out and back in? i may just be looking in the wrong place on YT though. can anyone point me in the right direction?


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