3VZE Shortblock!
03-26-2011, 08:11 PM
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3VZE Shortblock!
Hey everyone! I've been on and off this site reading the forums for years, and its about time I chimed in with some specifics instead of just taking advice left for others! I am planning my 4Runner rebuild for the next few weeks. So starting off, its a '95 4Runner, 3.0, Auto, 4WD... Bought it a few days ago for a couple hundred bucks. I misplaced my jumbo coffee after towing it home, and upon checking the oil in this rig, well, needless to say, I found it
Mmmm, mm. After changing the oil to guage how toasted this toast really is, it's having all the signs of HG leak. I have coolant going in the oil, its burning coolant, and also pushing combustion gasses into the cooling system. So, at first I priced a head shave, gasket set, yada yada yada... but then, got to thinking how much i would HATE to pull the heads off, THEN pull the block after finding it warped.. and you know if I'm pulling the block out at 181k, its getting bored, new pistons, rings, oil pump, bearings, yada yada yada.. So, I'm thinking that ol' short-block I've had sitting around for a few months is finally going to get some use! It's out of a 94 Pickup 4WD auto. It has around 50k original miles, with crank, rods, pistons, bearings, and has oil pump, baffle plate, knock sensor and wire on it, and new center idler right next to it. Now, my game plan is to pluck the 4Runner motor, tear it down, send the heads out to get pressure checked, hot tanked, new valves, and get shaved flat, then slap the heads, intake, oil pan, etc onto the other block, and drop that into the 4Runner. 
(I make it sound so easy..) If all goes accordingly, I shouldn't have to touch it for a long long time. (fingers crossed, I've had what some would call taboo good luck with 3VZE's) Anyways, I've checked the FSM, and Alldata online, and both places say to pull the engine and trans as one unit.. I'd really rather not. Is it possible to seperate the engine and trans without taking the exhaust crossover off to get to the upper bolts? Or, anyone have Tips, tricks, hints for doing it this way..? Since im going the shortblock route Id prefer to save that PITA crossover for when its out of the truck, but all things considered........ So far, I've priced water pump, thermostat, hydro tensioner, full gasket kit, all 6 exhaust valves, machine shop labor, plugs and wires, cap and rotor, pcv valve, all 4 belts, fluids and filters, and maybe a couple of other things, I'll have to check tomorrow to be certain... anyone have any suggestions for what else i should add to the parts list? Suggestions for removing the motor this way? What to do's, what not to do's? Any help, tips, tricks, will be greatly appreciated! And thank you all in advance!
(BTW, the block currently in the 4Runner doesn't knock or have any signs of actually being defective, I just don't want to spend all the money rebuilding that bottom end if I have a perfectly good one sitting around!)
Mmmm, mm. After changing the oil to guage how toasted this toast really is, it's having all the signs of HG leak. I have coolant going in the oil, its burning coolant, and also pushing combustion gasses into the cooling system. So, at first I priced a head shave, gasket set, yada yada yada... but then, got to thinking how much i would HATE to pull the heads off, THEN pull the block after finding it warped.. and you know if I'm pulling the block out at 181k, its getting bored, new pistons, rings, oil pump, bearings, yada yada yada.. So, I'm thinking that ol' short-block I've had sitting around for a few months is finally going to get some use! It's out of a 94 Pickup 4WD auto. It has around 50k original miles, with crank, rods, pistons, bearings, and has oil pump, baffle plate, knock sensor and wire on it, and new center idler right next to it. Now, my game plan is to pluck the 4Runner motor, tear it down, send the heads out to get pressure checked, hot tanked, new valves, and get shaved flat, then slap the heads, intake, oil pan, etc onto the other block, and drop that into the 4Runner. (I make it sound so easy..) If all goes accordingly, I shouldn't have to touch it for a long long time. (fingers crossed, I've had what some would call taboo good luck with 3VZE's) Anyways, I've checked the FSM, and Alldata online, and both places say to pull the engine and trans as one unit.. I'd really rather not. Is it possible to seperate the engine and trans without taking the exhaust crossover off to get to the upper bolts? Or, anyone have Tips, tricks, hints for doing it this way..? Since im going the shortblock route Id prefer to save that PITA crossover for when its out of the truck, but all things considered........ So far, I've priced water pump, thermostat, hydro tensioner, full gasket kit, all 6 exhaust valves, machine shop labor, plugs and wires, cap and rotor, pcv valve, all 4 belts, fluids and filters, and maybe a couple of other things, I'll have to check tomorrow to be certain... anyone have any suggestions for what else i should add to the parts list? Suggestions for removing the motor this way? What to do's, what not to do's? Any help, tips, tricks, will be greatly appreciated! And thank you all in advance!(BTW, the block currently in the 4Runner doesn't knock or have any signs of actually being defective, I just don't want to spend all the money rebuilding that bottom end if I have a perfectly good one sitting around!)
04-03-2011, 07:41 PM
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Lots of views, no replys? meh!
for anyone wondering, all in all its not too shabby, took forever tho, 9 hours total so far, engine out and mostly disassembled. heres a late-night step by step, forgive me if i missed some things..
- drain oil and coolant, remove trans cooler lines if equipped
- disconnect air flow meter, pcv hose, remove intake tubing, filter housing
- disconnect and remove battery
- label and remove vacuum lines and air injection hose on passenger side (EGR, Evap to temp sensor, etc.)
- remove vacuum lines, throttle cables, disconnect and remove cold start injector, remove coolant lines for idle air control (bottom of throttle body), disconnect TPS then remove the intake plenum
- disconnect fuel line or remove fuel rail, whichever you prefer
- disconnect oil pressure sender, alternator, ADD if equipped, coil, igniter, unclip one ground near coil, unbolt the other ground near coil, unplug distributor, injectors, coolant temp sensors, knock sensor, etc
- remove rad hoses, fan shroud, then radiator, then fan blade
- remove power steering and a/c belts
- unbolt power steering lower bracket from block, then upper bracket from head, lay power steering pump as close as you can to the battery tray area
- unbolt a/c compressor bracket from the block, leaving the compressor on the bracket, and moving it as far forward and away from the block as you can
- remove front passenger inner fender splash guard, then the starter cover
- remove starter and passenger engine brace (engine to trans)
- i used a 17mm 1/2 short socket and regular ratchet and cracked the two right hand upper bell housing bolts from here, including the very top one
- unbolt the exhaust down-pipe, and disconnect its mount on the transmission
- unbolt trans dipstick from LH manifold heat shield and transmission, and remove
- remove the drivers side engine brace, then the dust cover hiding the torque converter bolts
- remove front driver inner fender splash guards, and unbolt the heat shield covering the upper control arm to gain access to the rest of the upper bell housing bolts
- remove front skid plate and put a 19mm socket on the crank, and spin the engine by the crank as you remove all 6 torque converter bolts
- unbolt the trans cooler lines from the brackets on the block on the passenger side
- install floor jack with a piece of wood right under the bell-housing
- remove the 4 motor mount bolts
- install chain hoist and leveler on the removal hooks
- pick the engine up about two inches, and lift the bell-housing about an inch, grab the front of the motor like he-man, shake 'er back and forth till shes free, lift it to clear the radiator support, and voila, my first 3.0 removed
Installed onto engine stand, and then
- alternator mounting brackets, and belt
- upper timing cover, then the #4 timing cover (around the center idler)
- timing belt tensioner, then fan bracket, timing belt, tensioner pulley, cam gears
- metal timing cover, behind cam gears
- EGR tube and PAIR valve
- lifting hooks, then valve covers
- crossover pipe, and exhaust manifolds
- coolant sensor block (two nuts, rear of lower intake)
- lower intake manifold
next step is removing the heads, but after cracking two sockets on the first head bolt, decided to call it a night. pretty scary though, when you nearly ratchet yourself in the balls... thought i broke the headbolt at first... anywho, thats all for now.
for anyone wondering, all in all its not too shabby, took forever tho, 9 hours total so far, engine out and mostly disassembled. heres a late-night step by step, forgive me if i missed some things..- drain oil and coolant, remove trans cooler lines if equipped
- disconnect air flow meter, pcv hose, remove intake tubing, filter housing
- disconnect and remove battery
- label and remove vacuum lines and air injection hose on passenger side (EGR, Evap to temp sensor, etc.)
- remove vacuum lines, throttle cables, disconnect and remove cold start injector, remove coolant lines for idle air control (bottom of throttle body), disconnect TPS then remove the intake plenum
- disconnect fuel line or remove fuel rail, whichever you prefer
- disconnect oil pressure sender, alternator, ADD if equipped, coil, igniter, unclip one ground near coil, unbolt the other ground near coil, unplug distributor, injectors, coolant temp sensors, knock sensor, etc
- remove rad hoses, fan shroud, then radiator, then fan blade
- remove power steering and a/c belts
- unbolt power steering lower bracket from block, then upper bracket from head, lay power steering pump as close as you can to the battery tray area
- unbolt a/c compressor bracket from the block, leaving the compressor on the bracket, and moving it as far forward and away from the block as you can
- remove front passenger inner fender splash guard, then the starter cover
- remove starter and passenger engine brace (engine to trans)
- i used a 17mm 1/2 short socket and regular ratchet and cracked the two right hand upper bell housing bolts from here, including the very top one
- unbolt the exhaust down-pipe, and disconnect its mount on the transmission
- unbolt trans dipstick from LH manifold heat shield and transmission, and remove
- remove the drivers side engine brace, then the dust cover hiding the torque converter bolts
- remove front driver inner fender splash guards, and unbolt the heat shield covering the upper control arm to gain access to the rest of the upper bell housing bolts
- remove front skid plate and put a 19mm socket on the crank, and spin the engine by the crank as you remove all 6 torque converter bolts
- unbolt the trans cooler lines from the brackets on the block on the passenger side
- install floor jack with a piece of wood right under the bell-housing
- remove the 4 motor mount bolts
- install chain hoist and leveler on the removal hooks
- pick the engine up about two inches, and lift the bell-housing about an inch, grab the front of the motor like he-man, shake 'er back and forth till shes free, lift it to clear the radiator support, and voila, my first 3.0 removed
Installed onto engine stand, and then
- alternator mounting brackets, and belt
- upper timing cover, then the #4 timing cover (around the center idler)
- timing belt tensioner, then fan bracket, timing belt, tensioner pulley, cam gears
- metal timing cover, behind cam gears
- EGR tube and PAIR valve
- lifting hooks, then valve covers
- crossover pipe, and exhaust manifolds
- coolant sensor block (two nuts, rear of lower intake)
- lower intake manifold
next step is removing the heads, but after cracking two sockets on the first head bolt, decided to call it a night. pretty scary though, when you nearly ratchet yourself in the balls... thought i broke the headbolt at first... anywho, thats all for now.
Last edited by Bcorey9923; 04-03-2011 at 07:44 PM.
04-04-2011, 05:45 AM
#3
Registered User
I found it easier to get the block out with the tranny taken off, also took me about 9 hours to get it out. However, with the tranny still attached, we were able to take one out out in just 4 hours. We were also a lot less careful, cut wiring harness,exhaust radiator core support...(the body wasn't being saved)
08-01-2011, 07:04 PM
#4
Registered User
Pulling 3VZE
I am about to do the same thing to my 4Runner. I have decided to leave the transition in the truck.Thanks for the post. It seems like a big project. I haven't decided on where to begin. Right now it is over a hundred degrees outside or about 107 today. I am going to try to take my time and not break anything.
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