DiskDoctr

Coopma,

I can't say how much it would cost, but since you're planning to tow it with the surge brakes, try to make sure your hitch ball is at the correct height.

That can make a big difference in how it handles. If it is too high, the trailer will hunt all over the road, especially above 35mph, and will jerk a lot.

If it is too low, the trailer will be applying the surge brakes too much.

This is easy to adjust, as even Walmart has a variety of drop hitches. You just have to get the one that works the best and hang on to it.

Personally, if I was planning a 600mi trip, I'd take it out on the local highway and get it up to speed and see how it rides first. Be sure to take an extra wheel bearing and spare wheel/tire, just in case

Good luck

-DiskDoctr

coopma

Thanks for all the advice.
For a tamdem trailer with surge brakes, is this what I would need?

http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/itemdesc.asp?CartId={9F7B3CB0-9AB8-4846-AE1EVERESTB-2B3293E5796D}&ic=EB2K%2D0510%2DG&eq=&Tp=

KIT INCLUDES : 2-Pair 10" x 2-1/4" electric brake assemblies ,1- Dual axle complete wiring kit , which includes :Heavy duty 7-blade RV connector , Heavy coated wiring harness with rubber molded plugs and mating receptacles on the brakes provide water resistant electrical connections (no cutting / no splicing) . 1-Break-away kit which includes : 12v 5-amp rechargeable battery with battery box , Battery charger and Breakaway switch . All mounting brackets , hardware and connectors with instructions. NOTE : (Brake drums and vehicle connections sold separately)

What else would be needed?
I need to find a trailer place that sells and installs these.

DiskDoctr

I also replaced the drums, which came as part of my kit. Other than that, it sounds pretty complete. But if you're planning to have it installed, you should speak with them to be sure.

They can look over your trailer for rust, check the axles, springs and hardware, etc while they're at it.

Just a thought...If your current surge brakes and trailer are in good working order, you may want to price a new trailer and consider trading in yours or selling it outright. Might save you time and/or $$....

My boat trailer brakes were shot and so was most of the hydraulic components, so replacing it was required. Otherwise, I may have shopped for a new one and sold the old one.

I'd just hate to see you spend close to $1k (the kit you linked, plus labor to install) if you could have traded your trailer with about the same $$ difference (and had a new trailer!)

Do you have a picture of your boat and trailer? How long is the boat?

It's a good project and well worth it. Just want to get the best value, especially if you are thinking about paying someone else to do it.

-DiskDoctr

coopma

I just spent $550 to get my trailer serviced with new drums, etc....
Since I have an inboard it is kind of a special trailer so I bet replacing it would cost a lot.

I don't plan to tow it much. I want to see how this trip from Atlanta to the Gulf coast goes. That is 600 miles roundtrip.

It's a trade off for the cost of changing to electric brakes vs using the surge, safety, etc....

thx for all the coaching

DiskDoctr

No problem. Hopefully I didn't confuse you too much

-DiskDoctr

coopma

When driving a 2004 4Runner with auto, v8, 2WD how and when should you shift to and from D, 4, 3, 2?

DiskDoctr

I have the 2004 V8 AWD auto and any time I need the extra umph uphills, passing, etc, I use the shifter.

I think I read that the 5 speed transmission was designed for this type of advanced, manual shifting. You can do it with any auto, but sometimes it is hard on the transmission if it wasn't designed for it.

An auto normally has its own shift points which are pretty soft, and downshifting is often tough on a standard auto (if under load or speed).

When do I shift?

When going down a hill to hold back a heavy load (the transmission automatically downshifts to act as an engine brake from D to 4 if you hit your brakes, even if you don't manually shift).

When I am on flat approaching a hill and need the RPMs due to a heavy load or big hill (prevents lugging or crawling up the hill).

Also when following someone up a grade, sometimes when they shift or slow down, I have to let up on the gas to slow down, and lose my rpms, or the transmission upshifts. Then I would have to really get into the pedal to get back up to speed. Using a lower gear manually retains these rpms and prevents me from riding up too close to someone in front, making me let off the gas.

I have this one road I travel a lot that goes over the mountain. There are only about 3 places to pass on a 45 min drive, and a lot of big trucks travel this way.

That means lots of crawling and backed up traffic, sometimes 8-10 cars deep.

Just before the passing zone is a very sharp turn and all the vehicles slow down, so nobody has the rpms to pass. I downshift coming into the corner, then as soon as we get around, I punch it.

Only about 30 secs of hard push, then I ease up and meander the rest of the way between 45mph and 65mph.

The supercharger would certainly help in those situations...

-JC