What will happen
#21
I'm kind of wondering why you have a 4x4 if you have no use for it and want to disable it? You could buy a nice car with lots of room in it and get much better mileage than the runner does and it would acctually have some get up and go as well. It sounds like you are trying to turn a 4wd truck into a 2wd hatchback wagon thing like a Matrix. I'd say sell your runner in the shape its in and buy a decent mileage car if thats what your after.
#22
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I dont wanna sell, its just that now, i am not able to use it for what it is for, i have a boat, use it to pull, but work is slow now that is all, plus i just love the runners, used to have a 90 with no probs at all and had 300,000 plus on it.
#23
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Well, what size tires are you running on it? Keep them as small as possible (since you're not 4wheeling) and run the smoothest tread pattern you can. Keep the vehicle tuned up, and that's all you can do....without removing weight of parts and whatnot. Maybe go on a diet? hahahaha...I jest!
#24
Sorry for following your posts. But, a suggestion if you want to get away from this low mpg gut less turd. Then trade it in for something with a 3.4! 95 was the last year of the 4runner with this crap engine. 10/95 they changed to the 3.4 DOHC, much more power, same weight, same or better mpg! You can still have the same body style, get a 2wd (get out and use your 4x!) or get a p/u.
#25
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I am thinking of a 2wd, but the area i stay in is real bare on Toyota's period...lol...down southeast georgia...lol...chevys and fords rule the road out here....junk yard guy told me he "aint got nan one toyota", lol...real quote too!!
Just replaced my o2, cat, and fuel filter yeserday....notice smoother running, will see about the mpg,
does exahust have anything to do with mpg? and easy mods that are affordable for it?
Just replaced my o2, cat, and fuel filter yeserday....notice smoother running, will see about the mpg,
does exahust have anything to do with mpg? and easy mods that are affordable for it?
#26
if the front diff was connected to drinve shaft all the time the shaft would spin in 2 wheel drive with the truck totally off the ground. go try and you will learn something new. i dont care if its add or not the drive shaft is ingauged by the tranfer case not the front diff. the front actuator ingauges the drive shaft to the diff. and the hubs connect the front axles to the wheels. there for the front driveshaft never spins unless the transfer case is shifted to 4wheel.
#27
As I stated previously, the driveshaft WILL spin in 2wd IF you have a traction control device installed in that axle. THE ONLY EXCEPTION TO THE RULE!
Adding a limited slip or locker to an ADD equipped truck
If you plan on installing a limited slip unit (LSD) or locker for it you should change the front hubs to the manual type. If you are driving in 2WD with the original live hubs and you have one of these units in the front differential then the passenger side axle shaft will turn the differential. With a traction adding device inside the differential the front drive shaft will turn as if you were in 4WD causing more wear on the front diff, drive shaft, and transfer case, and the traction adding device inside the differential.
If you plan on installing a limited slip unit (LSD) or locker for it you should change the front hubs to the manual type. If you are driving in 2WD with the original live hubs and you have one of these units in the front differential then the passenger side axle shaft will turn the differential. With a traction adding device inside the differential the front drive shaft will turn as if you were in 4WD causing more wear on the front diff, drive shaft, and transfer case, and the traction adding device inside the differential.
I know EXACTLY how this system works, because I did my RESEARCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for playing!
Last edited by MudHippy; 12-27-2007 at 09:18 PM.
#28
By the means of a little thing called a synchro. Which only comes into play AFTER the driver's side axle has engaged and STARTED turning the ring gear, thereby turning the driveshaft. NOT BEFORE. It doesn't all happen instantaneously. And the driveshaft actually does spin for a short time AFTER shifting out of 4wd from residual inertia. BUT THERE'S NO WAY FOR THE DRIVESHAFT TO BE SPUN BY ANYTHING WITHOUT EITHER THE TRANSFER CASE AND/OR THE DRIVER'S SIDE AXLESHAFT ENGAGED. THIS REQUIRES FIRST SHIFTING, "ON-THE-FLY" OR NOT, INTO 4HI. THEN AND ONLY THEN WILL THE FRONT DRIVESHAFT SPIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
As I stated previously, the driveshaft WILL spin in 2wd IF you have a traction control device installed in that axle. THE ONLY EXCEPTION TO THE RULE!
from http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/ar....jsp?id=399612
I know EXACTLY how this system works, because I did my RESEARCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for playing!
As I stated previously, the driveshaft WILL spin in 2wd IF you have a traction control device installed in that axle. THE ONLY EXCEPTION TO THE RULE!
from http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/ar....jsp?id=399612
I know EXACTLY how this system works, because I did my RESEARCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for playing!
Interesting that a synchro can move the front driveshaft from 0 RPM to match the speed of the rear driveshaft, which could be turning at 4000 RPM. But you're the expert according to your research, so it must be happening exactly as you say.
#29
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just run on a half a tank of gas. i don't know what a gallon of gas weights , but water weights 8lbs to the gallon, so lets say gas weights 7lbs to the gallon. 7lbs x8gal.=56lbs easier than pulling the drive shaft. since we are splitting hairs.
#30
Read it again because at no point did I state such. How was I unclear about the order of what happens first?
Simply restated, the front driveshaft is brought up to speed with the rear driveshaft by the vacuum actuated clutch mechanism in the ADD front axle assembly. Once the ADD clutch mechanism engages the driver's side axle THEN the front driveshaft is then directly spun by both the front axles(remember it takes 2 axles together, without a locker,LSD, etc.). AFTER WHICH HAS OCCURED, now please pay close attention here, the synchro in the transfer case can precisely synchronize the speed of the front driveshaft with the speed of the rear output shaft(rear driveshaft).
If that don't explain it well enough, too bad. I'm hoarse from yelling, so no more help here.
At least one of us knows what's going on....
#31
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You're kidding right?
Read it again because at no point did I state such. How was I unclear about the order of what happens first?
Simply restated, the front driveshaft is brought up to speed with the rear driveshaft by the vacuum actuated clutch mechanism in the ADD front axle assembly. Once the ADD clutch mechanism engages the driver's side axle THEN the front driveshaft is then directly spun by both the front axles(remember it takes 2 axles together, without a locker,LSD, etc.). AFTER WHICH HAS OCCURED, now please pay close attention here, the synchro in the transfer case can precisely synchronize the speed of the front driveshaft with the speed of the rear output shaft(rear driveshaft).
If that don't explain it well enough, too bad. I'm hoarse from yelling, so no more help here.
At least one of us knows what's going on....
Read it again because at no point did I state such. How was I unclear about the order of what happens first?
Simply restated, the front driveshaft is brought up to speed with the rear driveshaft by the vacuum actuated clutch mechanism in the ADD front axle assembly. Once the ADD clutch mechanism engages the driver's side axle THEN the front driveshaft is then directly spun by both the front axles(remember it takes 2 axles together, without a locker,LSD, etc.). AFTER WHICH HAS OCCURED, now please pay close attention here, the synchro in the transfer case can precisely synchronize the speed of the front driveshaft with the speed of the rear output shaft(rear driveshaft).
If that don't explain it well enough, too bad. I'm hoarse from yelling, so no more help here.
At least one of us knows what's going on....
I gave up trying to explain things in here back on page one, there is no use in trying to educate those that think they are right and refuse to accept otherwise, this site is to help and inform people, but some think it's for "I'm right and you're wrong" which, no offense here, you're starting to come off as, but I know that you have good intentions and you are trying to stop mis-information, just like me, but I gave up and you got frustrated (and hopefully the other parties got edumacated)
Last edited by b.miller123; 12-29-2007 at 03:36 PM.
#33
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Mudhippy, I applaud your efforts to dispel BS. I find myself doing the same. It can get frustrating but keep up the good fight. Without correct info forums like these become useless.
Frank
Frank
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