2big4arunner

Arp head studs or studs in general don't require to be more then finger tight once they are in the block. Check with arp and ask them or even with your block shop buddy. I have never had to make a tool myself.
One thing to do either way is to run a thread chaser down the holes to make sure the threads are clean.
It never hurts to double check information.

scott90

Little update,I got my heads back from the shop they said they were good to go,bolted my heads on and torqued them on how the fsm specified,bolted on my exhaust as well,my question is do I need to remove the crank pulley to replace my timing belt?

2big4arunner

sorry about the delay. I am pretty sure you have to remove the pulley to replace the timing belt. funny enough, the couple I have rebuilt have all had recent timing belts done. I didnt pull mine out lol
here is the link to the bottom end of the engine and how the cover is on there.

http://www.ncttora.com/FSM/1993/engine/67timingbe.pdf

I found a link to a crossover mod elimination link found below

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...or-diy-198561/

gives you a basic idea of how easy and cheap it could be.. come to think of it.. I might do this on thursday again... my buddy has a 3.0 and is eliminating the cat.

scott90

Quick question,should I be able to re assemble the top end before the front of the motor?

scott90

so i just got done doing my head gaskets,i left off the power steering pump and alternator and hooked up a battery charger so i could make sure my timing was on...i also left out my radiator and everything,i started my truck up and it took awhile for the fuel to cycle threw the lines and when it did it started steaming out the exhaust just as bad as the day the gasket blew! I started it up 3 times and ran it for about a minute each time,it wasnt so bad when i just kept enough throttle to keep it running but when i tried to give it a little rev it poured steam out of the exhaust and i could see water spraying everywhere..btw i didnt let it run long enough to get warm so no harm but i am getting a serious suspicion that i might have got some really BAD GAS or someone spiked it when i was sleeping?? whats your input?

2big4arunner

Don't panic about the water unless you have emptied your exhaust 100% from when you blew the original gasket. If you don't see any major idle issues (assuming you also put new spark plugs in) run the truck for about 15 minutes on idle. This should warm it up and clear out the water thats still in the system. Mine blew huge for 5 minutes or so. Its just residual coolant in the muffler and cat. If your worried about the heads. Check it with a compression tester and coolant pressure tester. I am just about positive that I am right but since your doing the work you Gotta be the one who thinks about the work you just put into the motor and if you believe you did it right.
Get back to me if you think you have a leak and want to double check rebuild steps on the head themselves

scott90

im almost 100% sure i did the heads right, but i cant get it to idle right because it still seams like its burning water, but theres no water in the system at all,i have to keep my foot on the gas for it to run and i have to floor board it for it to start,but when it does run decent for a second or two it still steams.

2big4arunner

the running issue sounds like the timing belt or the ignition timing is off. have you checked both? have you also made sure that you have all your vacuum lines to the right hoses including your cold start hookup and your vacuum and return lines?

assuming you still have a cat in the system... unhook your exhaust there and see if it still steams.. warning... it will be loud. dont wake the neighbors.

scott90

when i looked at it the cams still seemed to be on TDC as well as the crank gear, im pretty sure all the vacuum lines are good to go because there are no extra and i made a diagram drawing on the inner part of my hood to tell me where they went, and it runs exactly the same as the day the head gasket blew no different, i know that my exhaust is full of water because before i tore it apart when it blew, it was pouring out of a small hole in the muffler and out of the o2 sensor but it just soundsd like its burning water because i litterally have to keep floor boarding it for it to run at all,if i let off it just dies...and i have to floor board it to start it up

2big4arunner

And your ignition timing? You might be one tooth out.
Unhook your exhaust at the cat and see if that solves the steam issue. I run a flex hose with a hanging metal end to pipe my exhaust outside. But it should show you if your still burning it.

have you also made sure your plugs are OK. I can't seem to think of anything else..... Did you cut your original cover that sits behind your cams?

scott90

i did a complete tune up with brand new plugs,wires,cap,rotor and now i havent checked my timing with a light yet...and yes i cut the cover the sits behind both cam gears down the middle so i could pull the cams without [pulling off the cam gears.

2big4arunner

Try putting the distributor one more tooth advanced and try that. When you put the cover back on, new cover or fixed old one? I am just thinking of issues that might cause the running and no start unless under full throttle.

2big4arunner

K I have to get a couple hours sleep before waking up. Try that tooth on the distributor and grab a timing light to see where you are on that. 12 degrees works best. 10 for hard emission tests.

The issues your talking about aren't related in my books. If you can, drain your exhaust by pulling it out and letting it stand upright for a while. You might still get a little smoke but thats kinda normal.

If the timing is dead on. You might try another timing cover and checking you timing marks again. 20 year mechanics hate this motor for mechanical timing sometimes. Make sure you have/ had the engine at tdc when you put the distributor in. It should be set close to the middle of the adjustment when your set right.

if you can't figure out anything else take some pictures of you're timing setup and post them. Maybe someone else will be able to see something.

scott90

When I put the dizzy in it was at the top of the adjustment and was almost on 0 degrees when I had it on tdc

2big4arunner

Try advancing the distributor one notch. It suits be in the middle or closer to the bottom

scott90

Took a second look the bolt was at the bottom of the adjustment so I loosened it and turned it to the middle now I'm waiting on the battery to charge

scott90

I forgot that my tps was unplugged so I plugged that in but no change,still a lot of smoke..it is definitley down a cylinder....something sounds like its growling from the left valve cover as well

2big4arunner

Hmmm..... I would inspect that head. Pull the spark plug and see what is happening. Pull the valve cover re the growl. Did it start better with the tps and timing adjustment?

2big4arunner

I am curious as to what you found. Did you try a start the motor again before checking the head noise? I hope all is still good.

scott90

It's been like that since I started it I just wasn't sure what it is, my roommate when he took the heads in I'm pretty sure he took the lifters out and put them back in in the wrong order