jbaums

Hey so next weekend I desperately need to swap the rear u joint out of my 1990 4x pickup ext cab. I've done the research and know basically what's up. Should I do both of the joints on the rear axle at the same time? Even if only the one at the diff has all the leeway in it? And secondly are there any other parts I should swap while under construction? What kind of grease goes in the new joint/drive shaft when reinstalling?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

All I can say is these joints are a pain.

Maybe being in the great brine belt with all the rust and them being in there 20 plus years does make it harder then in the dry climates

I don`t even change them any more I have a shop that sells joints and installs them at a decent price.

I don`t change them often enough to build a fixture to hold them .

I just get all the joints on the shaft changed.

Innocent Fool

I've done U-Joints before and believe me it's not worth the time. When I had to do the joints in my last truck I pulled the drive shaft and took it to a machine shop. Dropped it off in the morning, picked it up after work, and installed it that night. Really didn't cost that much for them to do it and way less headache. Take it to an actual machine shop or drive line shop, NOT a regular garage...

PS: if you're going that route get them to change all the joints.
They charge by the hour so the cost should be about the same for them to replace one joint or all.

MudHippy

Toyota recommends lithium based MP grease, except for Double Cardan joints. Which you're supposed to use molybdenum disulfide lithium based grease in.

So pretty much whatever you've got will work just fine.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

You can swap u-joint yourself but I would suggest having a shop with a press to do it. Do all the u-joints at once. The shop I use charges $15 to do the joints. I take him the drive shaft and he swaps them. They can be difficult to get out at times and if not installed right will fail usually at high speeds. Just not worth the risk.