stereo install on 95 pickup
03-15-2006, 12:04 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by Ertified4Runner
Thanks guys for all sortsa the input--indeed much appreciated. cuz I don't have access to a soldering tool (I guess I could rent one), I'll probly end up crimping the wires...unless a soldering tool isn't too expensive to buy (anyone know rough estimates?)
And the lowdown on the wires is way cool, I woulda totally not thought of that and wondered what in sam hell's goin on here when I went to put a new one in--yeah, that crutchfield seems like the new path of electrical righteousness for me
-Jeff & Bob: I hate knowing nothing about stuff and having some salesperson tell me what I want, I'd rather know what I want before some guy working for commission tells me so, plus I've been in college for way too long and have gotten pretty adept at the research thing...at least knowing that I need to and shouldn't wing it! And the article on the Clarion install is goin in my battalion of ammo for the new stereo install--
thank you sirs!
And the lowdown on the wires is way cool, I woulda totally not thought of that and wondered what in sam hell's goin on here when I went to put a new one in--yeah, that crutchfield seems like the new path of electrical righteousness for me
-Jeff & Bob: I hate knowing nothing about stuff and having some salesperson tell me what I want, I'd rather know what I want before some guy working for commission tells me so, plus I've been in college for way too long and have gotten pretty adept at the research thing...at least knowing that I need to and shouldn't wing it! And the article on the Clarion install is goin in my battalion of ammo for the new stereo install--
thank you sirs!
soldering irons are under $10. soldering guns (which i prefer) are under $30. they heat up very quickly and cool down quickly too. they are also easier to handle. mine actually has a light at the end which is very helpful in dark, tight spaces like under your dash. check out my soldering writeup. especially with anything electrical, do it the right way the first time and you will never have to repair it
i like the crutchfield plug-n-play harnesses. sure you pay for it, but to me, its a time vs money thing. also, some people arent comfy w/ soldering or anything electrical.
im going ot have another writeup on installing component speakers + amp + subwoofer in about 2 weeks or so. check for that in the tech section in the coming weeks.
bob
03-15-2006, 12:11 PM
#22
Contributing Member
well if you arent going to be under the dash soldering, and just doing wire to wire, or other small metal... if you can see yourself doing a lot, you cant beat a butane torch, the handheld devices are about 6in by 6 in by 1.5 in kinda t-shaped, and heat super fast... very easy once you get the hang of it, not good on delicates obviously... there is also a kind that uses gas to heat a metal tip, avoid those... very slow. I've used mine over my years of stereo installations, and for numerous other things like installing lights or any new power feeds on car.
03-15-2006, 12:19 PM
#23
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well...the stereo instlal in the truck isn't that hard...i put a Pioneer in mine...the biggest pita is tearing the dash and glove box out. Setting the harness up has gotten to be idiot proof...match the colors and the writing on the wires. the best is to solder them. the following is a list of what i did
Front Speakers:
4 inch round pioneer TS-A1057...they have "breakable" tabs that allow them to fit into the snazzy factory boxes...
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn..._34907,00.html
Rear Speakers:
Custom Fabbed 6x9 Pioneer TS-A6995
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...l?olderModel=Y
The next nice day that i have time i will snap some pics and throw them on here
I also have a Kicker 4 channel Impulse amp and a JL sub...but i don't think your going that far.
For my own vanity i ran as many wires as i could from the headunit without using the factory harness. I used thicker wires for better signal. I had no problems mounting the unit in the top bin. The only advice i have for you is that if you do decide to go with an amp...run the power wire and the rca's as far apart as you can. if you run them too close together you get alternator whiine...and that gets really old really fast....
Front Speakers:
4 inch round pioneer TS-A1057...they have "breakable" tabs that allow them to fit into the snazzy factory boxes...
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn..._34907,00.html
Rear Speakers:
Custom Fabbed 6x9 Pioneer TS-A6995
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...l?olderModel=Y
The next nice day that i have time i will snap some pics and throw them on here
I also have a Kicker 4 channel Impulse amp and a JL sub...but i don't think your going that far.
For my own vanity i ran as many wires as i could from the headunit without using the factory harness. I used thicker wires for better signal. I had no problems mounting the unit in the top bin. The only advice i have for you is that if you do decide to go with an amp...run the power wire and the rca's as far apart as you can. if you run them too close together you get alternator whiine...and that gets really old really fast....
03-15-2006, 02:36 PM
#24
Registered User
Originally Posted by kyle_22r
i had a hell of a time putting in new 4" speakers in my dash in my '91. toyota used a special "narrow mount" 4" round speaker that used 2 screws. i bought adapters off ebay and i still had to do a bunch of trimming of both the adapters and dash pieces!
As for the soldering....they are pretty cheap as mentioned and they have their disadvantages and advantages. I don't like the guns due to their larger size, but they heat up and cool down quick like mentioned. I like the little "pen" size/shaped guns. They take forever to heat up and cool down (yup....been burnt), but I like how small they are and how they can get in tight fit places when doing work inside the dash...cheaper too!
03-15-2006, 10:17 PM
#25
Registered User
i bought some "better" pioneer speakers at first, the problem fitting them was that the holes weren't far enough apart(the edge of the tabs were barely resting on where the screw holes in the dash piece were).
i ended up buying some nice treo 4" rounds and used the adapters. they sound very good for a tiny little speaker, but i don't know if it was worth mangling my dash and slicing my index finger open with a box knife :
i ended up buying some nice treo 4" rounds and used the adapters. they sound very good for a tiny little speaker, but i don't know if it was worth mangling my dash and slicing my index finger open with a box knife :
03-16-2006, 07:35 AM
#26
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lotsa talk about Pioneer speakers, anyone know about the fit of Sony speakers?
and on crutchfield.com, only four different speakers (companies) came up to fit in the 4" space of the 95 p/u, of which I'd lean towards the Alpine (upon further inspection, ithese Alpines are actually 4 1/16" -- make a big difference, or just more stuff to hafta cut out?).
and still more, they're also talkin about speaker wiring harnesses and mounting brackets--are these the same wires as needed for the stereo, or yet another set of wires? (!)
Thanks again...
and on crutchfield.com, only four different speakers (companies) came up to fit in the 4" space of the 95 p/u, of which I'd lean towards the Alpine (upon further inspection, ithese Alpines are actually 4 1/16" -- make a big difference, or just more stuff to hafta cut out?).
and still more, they're also talkin about speaker wiring harnesses and mounting brackets--are these the same wires as needed for the stereo, or yet another set of wires? (!)
Thanks again...
03-16-2006, 07:56 AM
#27
Contributing Member
its another set of wires that connects to speaker and plugs directly into speaker wire where your factory speaker was, have never used them, just cut the two speaker wires and soldered/crimped to longer wires (6in or so) attached to speakers
03-16-2006, 08:06 AM
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groovy, looks like I might be doin more chop shop jobs...hadta cut both rear panels in half just to fit in the roll bar and drill thru the floor to afix it...I know, weak sauce compared to other dude's rides 
03-16-2006, 08:30 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by Ertified4Runner
Thanks Jeff, just what I needed to know--always so much stuff to hafta figure out just to upgrade something...now just hafta find one of those cubby hole pockets so there's no gaping hole underneath.
04-06-2006, 08:06 PM
#30
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okay, it's comin together
first of all, thanks to all that chimed in w/info on this project. turns out I ordered the
stereo (Sony, what else?) and speakers (Alpine) from Crutchfield, and they were way cool, sent me free speaker and unit wire harnesses for free. their instructions of dash board demolition helped. ended up to use the wire harness that came w/the stereo from sony, though.
now to the question(s): can anybody tell me how in the hell to decipher the meanings of all these little colored wires connecting the stock stereo? the sony harness has written on each wire what it is and where it goes, but the stockers have nuthin, nathin, nada. so which new wire do I splice to which old wire given that the old wires don't have any explanation as to their function?
I looked in Haynes and Chilton--nuthin. looked online for wiring diagrams and these places all charge the mula. bein the cheap, hopefully non-sap I am, anyone have free info since I don't wanna pay 65 bones for a pro install?
first of all, thanks to all that chimed in w/info on this project. turns out I ordered the
stereo (Sony, what else?) and speakers (Alpine) from Crutchfield, and they were way cool, sent me free speaker and unit wire harnesses for free. their instructions of dash board demolition helped. ended up to use the wire harness that came w/the stereo from sony, though.
now to the question(s): can anybody tell me how in the hell to decipher the meanings of all these little colored wires connecting the stock stereo? the sony harness has written on each wire what it is and where it goes, but the stockers have nuthin, nathin, nada. so which new wire do I splice to which old wire given that the old wires don't have any explanation as to their function?
I looked in Haynes and Chilton--nuthin. looked online for wiring diagrams and these places all charge the mula. bein the cheap, hopefully non-sap I am, anyone have free info since I don't wanna pay 65 bones for a pro install?
04-06-2006, 08:40 PM
#31
Registered User
Originally Posted by Ertified4Runner
okay, it's comin together
first of all, thanks to all that chimed in w/info on this project. turns out I ordered the
stereo (Sony, what else?) and speakers (Alpine) from Crutchfield, and they were way cool, sent me free speaker and unit wire harnesses for free. their instructions of dash board demolition helped. ended up to use the wire harness that came w/the stereo from sony, though.
now to the question(s): can anybody tell me how in the hell to decipher the meanings of all these little colored wires connecting the stock stereo? the sony harness has written on each wire what it is and where it goes, but the stockers have nuthin, nathin, nada. so which new wire do I splice to which old wire given that the old wires don't have any explanation as to their function?
I looked in Haynes and Chilton--nuthin. looked online for wiring diagrams and these places all charge the mula. bein the cheap, hopefully non-sap I am, anyone have free info since I don't wanna pay 65 bones for a pro install?
first of all, thanks to all that chimed in w/info on this project. turns out I ordered the
stereo (Sony, what else?) and speakers (Alpine) from Crutchfield, and they were way cool, sent me free speaker and unit wire harnesses for free. their instructions of dash board demolition helped. ended up to use the wire harness that came w/the stereo from sony, though.
now to the question(s): can anybody tell me how in the hell to decipher the meanings of all these little colored wires connecting the stock stereo? the sony harness has written on each wire what it is and where it goes, but the stockers have nuthin, nathin, nada. so which new wire do I splice to which old wire given that the old wires don't have any explanation as to their function?
I looked in Haynes and Chilton--nuthin. looked online for wiring diagrams and these places all charge the mula. bein the cheap, hopefully non-sap I am, anyone have free info since I don't wanna pay 65 bones for a pro install?
Ok I could not check further back than '88, so here are the wiring colors for a 1988 toyota 4runner... So keep in mind that these colors may not be correct for your application. However deducing what is what is easily done with a 9volt battery and a DMM using the information I gave you in my previous post.
12v contant - Blue/Yellow
Accessory - Gray
Ground - Brown
Power Antenna - Black/Red
Illumination - Green
Dimmer - Blue/Yellow
(To differentiate btwn this wire and the 12v contant use a test light or a DMM to make sure that the 12volt constant wire is carrying 12v at all times. This wire (dimmer) will carry anywhere from 12v to 0v only when the lights are on pending how you have your dimmer dial set.
For your speakers this will take some work...
Left Front Positive - Pink
Left Front Negative - Purple
Right Front Positive - Light Green
Right Front Negative - Purlple
(You can differentiate the two purples form each other 2 ways - with a 9v battery or with a DMM. If you have a 9v battery put one of the wires on one pole of the battery and the purple wire you think the correct one is on the other pole. If you have the correct purple, a speaker will make a POP sound. If not nothing will happen and try the other purple.)
Left Rear Positive - Black
Left Rear Negative - Yellow
Right Rear Positive - Red
Right Rear Negative - White
12v contant - Blue/Yellow
Accessory - Gray
Ground - Brown
Power Antenna - Black/Red
Illumination - Green
Dimmer - Blue/Yellow
(To differentiate btwn this wire and the 12v contant use a test light or a DMM to make sure that the 12volt constant wire is carrying 12v at all times. This wire (dimmer) will carry anywhere from 12v to 0v only when the lights are on pending how you have your dimmer dial set.
For your speakers this will take some work...
Left Front Positive - Pink
Left Front Negative - Purple
Right Front Positive - Light Green
Right Front Negative - Purlple
(You can differentiate the two purples form each other 2 ways - with a 9v battery or with a DMM. If you have a 9v battery put one of the wires on one pole of the battery and the purple wire you think the correct one is on the other pole. If you have the correct purple, a speaker will make a POP sound. If not nothing will happen and try the other purple.)
Left Rear Positive - Black
Left Rear Negative - Yellow
Right Rear Positive - Red
Right Rear Negative - White
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