shifting becoming difficult
07-20-2011, 09:14 PM
#21
Your truck's symptoms mirror mine exactly.
A little history: Bought my truck in 2001 with 142K miles; Now I have over 250K. From the beginning, there was a very slight resistance to putting it into 1st gear when stopped. Over the years that resistance has gradually gotten worse. Now, once the truck warms up(30+ min of driving, highway or street) it can be very resistant to going into gear. Clutch is fine, shifter seat is fine, gear oil is MT-90(GL-4).
I have concluded that the sychronizers are just about worn out in the trans, and a rebuilt unit is in my near future. I wonder how much longer the trans would have lasted if the the original pothead owners had EVER checked, added, or changed the trans oil. I'll never know that one!
Band-Aid fix: When you are having trouble getting it into gear, try depressing the clutch pedal, moderately rev the engine while applying light force on the shifter toward the the gear you want to enter. On mine, this usually eases it into gear without having to force it
UPDATE: Talked to experienced trans service tech today; he demonstrated that as far as he could discern from the trans behavior, it was the (30K mile)clutch not disengaging, not a synchro issue. The plot thickens... I'll report what happens, but it might not be until next week. -KB-
A little history: Bought my truck in 2001 with 142K miles; Now I have over 250K. From the beginning, there was a very slight resistance to putting it into 1st gear when stopped. Over the years that resistance has gradually gotten worse. Now, once the truck warms up(30+ min of driving, highway or street) it can be very resistant to going into gear. Clutch is fine, shifter seat is fine, gear oil is MT-90(GL-4).
I have concluded that the sychronizers are just about worn out in the trans, and a rebuilt unit is in my near future. I wonder how much longer the trans would have lasted if the the original pothead owners had EVER checked, added, or changed the trans oil. I'll never know that one!
Band-Aid fix: When you are having trouble getting it into gear, try depressing the clutch pedal, moderately rev the engine while applying light force on the shifter toward the the gear you want to enter. On mine, this usually eases it into gear without having to force it
UPDATE: Talked to experienced trans service tech today; he demonstrated that as far as he could discern from the trans behavior, it was the (30K mile)clutch not disengaging, not a synchro issue. The plot thickens... I'll report what happens, but it might not be until next week. -KB-
Last edited by Keith B.; 07-20-2011 at 09:16 PM.
07-21-2011, 12:09 AM
#23
Are you getting good clutch slave movement? Sometimes the clutch master cylinder leaks internally and can't build enough pressure to shift . Push the clutch pedal down and hold it and have someone watching the slave to see if it starts letting go slowly. The problem will be more promenant when the truck is warm.
03-04-2012, 01:55 PM
#24
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OK, here's what happened with mine: Trans service says it's the clutch. I say OK, a clutch job is cheaper than to replace or rebuild the trans, so go ahead. When they have the trans out, they discover an unusually worn spot(scoring and a shallow radial groove) along the first 1" of the trans input shaft at the exact place where the pilot bearing sits. Probably contamination from the inevitable hack clutch rush job the panicky pothead PO's had done right before they sold me the truck in 2001. Anyway, the service guys had to crack open the trans to replace the input shaft, went ahead with the new clutch, replaced the flywheel after the machinist discovered the OE one was warped beyond correction, and the truck now shifts better than ever. The whole operation cost about $600 or $700 shy of a complete trans rebuild, but budget dictated only the necessary repair be made. Trans runs perfect--255K miles and counting.
03-04-2012, 02:03 PM
#25
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I had to adjust the rod on my clutch pedal when I put a new clutch in. any trans shop should know this. If the clutch isn't disengaging when depressing the pedal then the pedal has to be "loosened", which is actually in a way tightening the rod as you adjust it to make the rod slightly longer so it pushes the master i further. This is due to the extra material on the new disc. Not much of an issue if the pedal was never adjusted throughout the wear of the previous clutch.
But when a clutch wears sometimes that pedal has to be adjusted and can have the same symptoms as needing a new clutch but no new clutch is needed. I've seen it time and time a gain where a trans shop just to get your money says it's the clutch and want you to replace it when the pedal is what needs to be adjusted.
But when a clutch wears sometimes that pedal has to be adjusted and can have the same symptoms as needing a new clutch but no new clutch is needed. I've seen it time and time a gain where a trans shop just to get your money says it's the clutch and want you to replace it when the pedal is what needs to be adjusted.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 03-04-2012 at 02:04 PM.
05-15-2012, 10:30 AM
#26
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my shifter just seems loose in and out of gear... its not very difficult to get into gear.. the only gear its a little rough on is 2'nd, oddly enough. reverse sometimes doesnt want to go in so i simply put her in fourth, then to R. works most times first try.
im hoping its just a worn our bushing . any thoughts guys?
CHEERS
(91, v6, manual 4x4 PU)
im hoping its just a worn our bushing . any thoughts guys?
CHEERS
(91, v6, manual 4x4 PU)
05-15-2012, 01:56 PM
#27
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Marlin Crawler Socket and Seat
Loose shifter but goes in gear fine? A Marlin Crawler MCTM-522 Seat and MCTM-532 Socket will fix you up. I’d replace the boot while I was in there too; MCTM-5122 Shifter Handle Boot.
http://www.marlincrawler.com/
The improvement on my truck was unbelievable.
Scott
http://www.marlincrawler.com/
The improvement on my truck was unbelievable.
Scott
05-15-2012, 02:13 PM
#28
Registered User
Had all the same shifting troubles.Had the shifter bushing changed(all cracked),shifter seat replaced,not a sign of the old one.Changed tranny oil through the top where the stick goes..used Redline MT 90.Replaced both the slave and master clutch cylinders..both had small leaks.Adjusted pedal and master cylinder rod.Shifts great.
05-15-2012, 05:14 PM
#29
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Loose shifter but goes in gear fine? A Marlin Crawler MCTM-522 Seat and MCTM-532 Socket will fix you up. I’d replace the boot while I was in there too; MCTM-5122 Shifter Handle Boot.
http://www.marlincrawler.com/
The improvement on my truck was unbelievable.
Scott
http://www.marlincrawler.com/
The improvement on my truck was unbelievable.
Scott
. It shifts no doubt, just has an awful lot of play... and I know its not "killing" my tran but it can be made better lol and kinda drives me nuts cause i HATE a rough shift. The last owner of the truck let a LOT of things go on her.. 
05-15-2012, 05:21 PM
#30
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My truck had over 5 inches of lateral slop in 1st prior to installation of the MC parts. I’ve got about ¾ of an inch after. You won’t regret the upgrade!
Know the deal on the VC gaskets, I just had them done on my truck!
Scott
Know the deal on the VC gaskets, I just had them done on my truck!
Scott
05-15-2012, 06:08 PM
#31
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Just ordered all three! The old girl is going to be VERY happy with me after this one!
prob dont "need" the boot but hey, why not.
I have quite a bit of slop lol, drives me insane.
*edit*
Scotts recommendation on the seat and bushing TOTALLY fixed my problem! feels like a new truck! and shifts like a charm and on point! I HIGHLY suggest this upgrade to anyone with our circa truck!
PEACE
prob dont "need" the boot but hey, why not.
I have quite a bit of slop lol, drives me insane.
*edit*
Scotts recommendation on the seat and bushing TOTALLY fixed my problem! feels like a new truck! and shifts like a charm and on point! I HIGHLY suggest this upgrade to anyone with our circa truck!
PEACE
Last edited by menmabassguitar; 05-30-2012 at 07:43 AM.
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