nevermore1701

Well my frustrating day trying to get my Aisins to work just got a whole lot better.
I was reassembling everything so it would at least be drivable to work tomorrow, and lo and behold, I sheared off a wheel stud. Never done that before, and a quick search didn't pull anything up. Suggestions?

Ardent

You have five others, you'll be ok. I have a stud missing from the driver's rear of both of my 93's. Eventually you can have it replaced at SEARS or most other wheel/service shops. Probably around $60-70.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Yup, should be fine for a few days until you can get it replaced. I would torque the others down to the same spec though.

hodgepodge79

x2. as long as hour sticking to paved surfaces and normal driving, don't worry too much about it (but don't forget about it either).

mattaway

1 is nothing to worry about.... i had 3 on the drivers side front, and 4 on the pass. side for months before i got around to fixing it

drew303

just run it. it's fine.. and when you get a day off, pull the hub off and put in a new stud, they're easy as heck to replace.

Now rear studs are another story, that costs money (gotta pull the bearing.. unless you got discs .. muahahha ...

HazMat

Ive twisted one off and drove that way for months. Like said above, You will be fine and since it is close to the center of the wheel you shouldnt feel any vibrations from being out of balance.

nevermore1701

Well, after pulling the tire and brakes off, I discovered that I don't have the 2 1/8" socket needet to get the hub the rest of the freaking way off. So I came inside, ordered one from Wabfab, and was pleased.

Then I went back outside, put everything back together, and... broke another one off. And really, I'm not tightening them *that* much.

When that socket gets here I'm going to replace ALL of the front studs, that's fer dang sure.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Geez man! That sucks!!! I made a socket out of 2.5" exhaust tubing I had. I had to have something right then and there. Works great for now...I do see a WabFab order soon though...

nevermore1701

Yeah, for $24 bucks it seems like it would be WELL worth it! I can't wait to have all those replaced, popping off studs is no fun at all!


....that last bit could sound vaugely wrong if taken out of context....

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

It does?


LOL!

nevermore1701

Yeah, making it all big and purple helps a lot....

Matt16

So many things can sounds wrong with wrenching:

lubed up my rear end last night
greased up my driveshaft
the hotter it is the more penetration you'll get
tighten both nuts up and drive that stud home

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Just curious what you used to snap off those studs??

I had bought a truck with a broke one no big deal to install new ones once you get the old one out.

Dublin

Think he used one of these

jason191918

Buy a torque wrench while you are at it...and use it.

klbeans

As per the original OP's question, I think he's looking for input on how to replace the wheels stud ie. DIY.

I'd also be interested on any help as I've got a wheel stud that needs replacing so that I can register my vehicle.

Dublin

Pics should help ya, the studs are about 6 bucks. In order to get to the front studs, you have to remove the entire rotor. Take off the hub cap and remove cotter pin and the large nut on there. Remove the hub and commence to pounding out the old studs HINT: use some wood to keep from messing the rotor up. Replacing is the reverse. Double check the spines on the studs. You can get them snug when you put your wheel back on. On the rear, just hit them out of the axle thru the back. Replacing is just putting them in from the back and snugging them with the wheel.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.p...1&d=1192296865

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

With a 4x4 remove the locking hub then the nuts and lock holding the wheel bearing .

pull off the rotor hub unit remove the 6 bolts holing the rotor to the hub separate the 2 pieces . I soak this good before. remove the broken stud I find air hammer is the best way. being careful. They also work great for stubborn cone washers.

To install the new studs or stud what ever is needed. I use a M12x1.50 stardard lug nut with the flat part to the bottom. using the half inch impact gun to pull it where it needs to be checking to make sure it is pulled in snug.

put it all back maybe replacing the wheel seal if you decide to pack the inner wheel bearing . A good thing to do if you have never been in there before.

klbeans

Thanks for the info guys. Now to remove the hub nut, I need a 2 1/8" socket? Is that correct? For us canadian guys, would NAPA have that in stock?