flanza

Hello all, had a question about my 1991 4runner 3vze My fan clutch went out so I replaced it with an aftermarket one from Autozone. It looked a little smaller than the original Aisis that I took out but it fit so I put it in. Seems to be doing ok but at idle for a long time like a long light the temp needle starts to rise. Has gotten has high as 3/4 way up, never to red though. It's never overheated and I can actually get it to go lower by revving up the engine. I think it goes lower b/c by revving it, I'm pushing more air through it to cool it ? Never had this problem before changing the clutch. Does this mean my aftermarket clutch is a POS ? and I need to go with the original aisin ? Found a lot of good info on this site already about overheating but nothing exactly like my problem.

Also fluid flushed and changed same time as fan clutch put in. And T stat. changed about a year before that. if that helps. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in Advance.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Just why did you need to change the original fan clutch??

Are you sure it was the fan clutch that failed ??

What cooling issues were you having

It sounds like this one is not working at all

RAD4Runner

Like Wyoming says ^^^

Comparing good to bad fan clutch aka liquid coupling HERE:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52229129

How thorough did you flush your cooling system. Pls see my thread how to thoroughly flush, according to Prestone instructions.

How good are you temp senders? All temp senders should be thoroughly cleaned, a least every 30 years See my thread regarding that, too.

flanza

Well now that you mention it, it was doing the same thing. Only running hotter. It didn't seize but not like the video in the link. After it was wormed up it would keep spinning after you turned it off. Also I could stop it with my hand after warm. I only assumed it bad ? maybe it is some thing else.

Where it the temp sensor located I'll check that too. The one that runs the gauge that is.

RAD4Runner

Then it's bad. Get OEM/Aisin. It's not that expensive and will save you time.

Pls see my thread. [underline]I think[/underline] it's on top of the thermostat but I may be wrong. I have not verified. Someone on this forum said it's on the intake manifold. I haven't found that yet.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

On a 22r series...
Water temp gauge sender is located on top of the lower intake, right in the middle, next to the head, directly above the heater hardline that wraps around the rear of the engine.

millball

A look at the OP's first post shows that hes' got a 3vz engine.

The temp gauge sender is gonna be on that bridge that contains several different sensors on the middle rear of the engine.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

22re, directly below the cold start injector.

​​​​​
2xR, this is a 20r housing and that's not a temp gauge sender..


3vze, red arrow

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Add! Apologies

millball

Heres a thread with some 3vz coolant sensor poop:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-3vze-224860/

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Updated the picture post. Almost covered all the bases but the carb engine threw me a curve ball..

RAD4Runner

flanza
Sorry... pls ignore my comments on location. I overlooked that you have a 3VZE.

millball

I'm not sure what engine that image represents, but I'm sure that it is NOT a 3vz-e ?????

Charchee

No it is not. On your engine, from the driver's side, reach back behind the plenum on your side and you will feel a water manifold with several sensors in it. The gauge sensor looks like the one in the picture. It's a single prong sensor with one wire coming off of it. My wire is gray on my 89. Now that one is just for your gauge. I believe the green sensor back there is the CTS that sends temperature information to your ECM. A foldable mirror is a good way to get a look at what's back there. Not sure if you can read your CTS data with a scan tool on that model or not.

If you suspect an inaccurate gauge reading, either replace that sensor or plumb in a manual gauge and check out what it reads.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

I'm going to blame the cold medicine, we're all sick as dogs over here..

That's the front side of a carb 2xR intake..
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/help-sending-unit-switches-190326/

flanza

Co. 94 PU it's the State you live in. Too damn cold there, makes you sick.

LOL Thanks everyone will look at all those possibilities.

wrenchmonster

Probably goes without saying, but... Have you cleaned the radiator? I don't mean a flush, I mean pull the radiator out and wash the core/fins off with a garden hose. This especially holds true if you live in a dusty environment or like the mud. After SO many years the radiator itself can clog with bugs, dirt, mud, sticks, and so on. It will act as a insulating blanket and prevent air from flowing through the core.

I'm not trying to be "smart" here, just a friendly reminder to never forget the simply stuff. I've seen guys chase their tail with overheating issues only to find out the radiator was clogged with bugs and dirt. Best way is to pull the radiator and do this outside of the vehicle. I like to hose it down, then spray it with a bunch of simple green, let it sit for 10-15 mins and then hose it down again. Take a flashlight to make sure it's all clear when you're done. Not saying this is your problem, but it's an easy maintenance item to cross of the list and something a lot of guys will forget to do.

flanza

Thanks Wrenchmonster.
That's a good idea think I'll do that first before buying another fan clutch. I have an electric power washer wonder if I can use that. It's electric not too powerful. Hopefully it won't hurt the fins. Just seems weird that I have to drive it for about 30-45 min first before the temp starts to creep up. Also I wonder if my off-road lights could be blocking the air at the grill ? Seems highly unlikely though?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

inspect the fin gaps with a flash light from the back side, you want no more than ten percent blockage. I'd it has AC don't forget your condenser.

Keep the pressure low and your distance far, hit it from the engine side to force it out the front not farther in.

If the lights are in front most certainly they are restrictions how much depends on how close and large they are. They are also an easy thing to remedy.

flanza

Thanks again for the Info. There's a picture of the lights in my Albums collections. If you get a chance take a look and tell me what you think. That is if they look like they could be obstructing air. Picture may not be good enough to tell though.