ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Also, get a stethoscope.... they're 8$ or so at AZ or the others. You can do some quick checks with that and YOU'LL NEED TO to rule out things like "Injectors are all firing", and "Fuel Pressure Regulator" and "no slap in the timing cover", etc. I had a really bad miss when I FIRST FIRED MINE UP, ....and my #2 injector was NOT firing.... Something flew free in the fuel line and went RIGHT THERE, lol. Tore it all back down, had em ALL checked,....sure enough, #2 was frozen with crap from my lines. Slapped it back together..... Break-in proceeded! lol.

I still say it SOUNDS like something in your timing, whether mechanical or ign related is off. I could be VERY WRONG, .......I don't wanna lead you any particular direction, ...it's just that almost every instance I've seen a POP IN THE AFM, ......it's usually timing, specifically 'BACKFIRE'.... I love learning, so ANYONE here, please explain to me how vacuum leaks would cause a backfire. I'm not being facetious, ...I'm seriously asking, lol.

You're not in L.A. by any chance, are you?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Just saw this.... and he IS RIGHT, regarding how important the Throttle Stop Screw Adjustment is. It keeps the plate from fully closing. Go here just to rule it out. Also, have you removed your TPS at all? If you did, then cleaned your throttle body, etc., then slapped it back on....even if adjusted properly(the tps).... if you didn't first set the stop screw, you can have problems with the TPS being out of adjustment.

Go here.....

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

You can also check your AFMeter from his GREAT sections....

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml

summit4runner

Thanks a lot Chef!

I do have the FSM, Haynes, and a Chilton.

I will check the valves asap. Did the EngnBldr guys give you a perfect setting for the lash?

I do still have the stock cam, and it's in good condition. If I'm, still looking after a few more days I may swap that one back in and just see.

Thanks again, Chef and everyone else, I will keep at it and hopefully post a video of her running smooth soon.

summit4runner

The valves are currently set at:

.008 for intake
.012 for exhaust

My sheet from the new cam says set it to:

.007 intake
.009 exhaust

I'm going to do it anyway but........Is this enough to be causing all my problems?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Probably not enough, Summit...no. But keep in mind, ...this guy, as GREAT as it made you feel to use him, hearing how awesome he was...... Didn't follow the instructions on the Box that the CAM came in. I AM IN NO WAY saying he's a bad builder, .... HECK NO! It happens,....but I just wouldn't wanna break in a brand new cam with the lash set improperly. Also, I wouldn't just swap things around like that, not yet. The 268 should be fine, especially in a 'new head'??? Anyway, YES, ''set them to 7 and 9", FOR SURE. PS> how long has it ran like that, at 8 and 12? Call Tod on that one and ask him, trust me, he'll have SOMETHING for ya, for sure!

Anyway, NO, I wouldn't think it could cause such a dramatic rough idle sitch.

Some vacuum routing issues can cause a real sluggish behavior.... I think I got a MUCH weirder than expected issue when I crossed my AC idle up air hoses.... and it was HISSING like a viper! lol. Not enough, again, to cause such an issue.

EGR stuff's should be set up right if they're being used.... and sometimes, something as simple as the modulator to EGR bottom hose can cause issues..... but it's usually just rising in idle, etc.

The chunky stuff has me really curious. You're CERTAIN you have the plug wires set up right?(Hey, it's happened 100 TIMES, trust me, lol.... Ask me how I know! Ok, don't, lol).

You must have had the cover off to check the lash, right? If so, did you check the lobes really well, just making sure no 'major carnage' occurred?(VERY UNLIKELY, Summit...it's just good to have a 'LIST', remember me saying that? lol)

I remember you asking about the ECU. That is also very unlikely.... The test is very simple.... SWAP IN A GOOD ONE! lol. Jk, ....most yards can test em for ya. Again, doubtful.

My guess is a plug wire in the wrong place, 1st.(trust me, that's the easiest, that's why I said that, lol). OR, possibly a bad Dizzy or something else within the ignition or Timing arena. I hear ya on the "tried the dizzy in every position" point. But my buddy and I tried every one, too.....turned out, while we were gone, his mechanic buddy pulled the dizzy and was turning it by hand, at the rotor, to get it to fire off at each hole.... He reinstalled it 180* OFF!!!! lol. But, as you said, "it's running, just really chunky with a miss", rightttt??????? Which, if it was 180* off.... it wouldn't stay running at all. Maybe with Ether you'd get it to turn over and vroom a lil...but the second you took the ether away? Nada! lol.

Hmmmm, well, keep checking things you're finding to test and let us know. Make a nice neat list on here, below my post, man... I PROMISE you'll get more hits.

summit4runner

First off, thanks for everyones help again. I only get 1 day or so a week to work on the truck due to my job.

Here are a couple things I though were worth mentioning:

I did leave the AC belt off and discharged the A/C.

I double checked the plug wires, they're right.

My mechanic friend loaned me a stethiscope with a metal tip on the end to listen for problems, if anyone has suggestions on where to listen let me know. I though I could at least check for vacuum leaks with it.

I am making a list to start down tommorow, I have the whole day dedicated to fixing this....


1. double check plug wires...again
2. pull plugs (make sure I havn't fouled any)
3. vacuum routing
4. do timing...again
5. adjust valve lash
6. my TPS (the symptoms match) http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...roubleshooting
7. then I may start alternating between hitting the truck and myself over the head with a hammer and see if that helps.

summit4runner

OK, double checked everything.

I realized this may be a TPS problem. I took it off the air chamber when I cleaned it and may not have put it on the exact same way. I see a screw at the top and a screw at the bottom that allow for a little forward backward adjustment for the TPS. The problem now is the I cannot get to the bottom screw.

I can see from my original pics it is not in the same position, org. it waspush all the way back and now it is in the middle.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

You just have to remove the throttle body and set it on the bench, it's much easier anyhow. Just pull the coolant hoses and plug them, pull the vacuum, pull the throttle cable pin and voila, the TBody is still in tact and ready for adjusting on the bench. BTW, Roger over there at 4crawler sells allen bolts that replace those screws that you CAN then get to, later. Not sure if you wanna bother searching for those at the parts store as you'll probably get it right much easier when on the bench.

Don't forget to set the throttle plate stop screw before adjusting the TPS(it's in his instructions)...

PS> I can't remember if this is the 22re(assuming it is, lol)... so forgive me if I made light of something that's a lil more tricky with the 3.0(which I'm not really familiar with, :/ lol)

Teuf

I googled , searched and asked my wife, whats AC

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey, I just found out, ......you turn on this button and it goes VROOM, and makes cold weather in your truck! YAYYYY, ....I'm on it! lol.

summit4runner

Yep a 22RE. I'll pull the body off now and set it how it was before I moved it.

You think this could be it?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Not sure, Summit, ....just sharing some 'help' stuff's, for WHEN you do it, not so much for 'YOU SHOULD do this' type input, lol.

I'd have to read through again, and I'm really slammed today, as you can imagine, lol. But, just checkin in for now.

NOTE TO SELF: Drop by Summit's page, again, and work out some gremlin data! CHECK! lol