acousticrawk

i found a lot of answers searching, but heres a few i couldnt get a clear answer on:

once warmed up it idles high (around 1400 rpms) and will drop to 1000 and back up to 14 and stay there. while dirving once warm, if i push in the clutch, it will idle for a few seconds at 2000 rpms and then drop to 1400.

especially noticeable when cold, it idles kind of rough and is hard to keep alive. its also hard to pull away from a stop. i dont make any power until about 2000 rpms, and its WEAL and at 3000-3200 rpms its INSTANT power on, and it launches like a bat out of hell. these symptoms stops after about 15-20 miles of driving... and i get low power but not as hateful at the low rpms, and it just seems to be in a fault mode.

heres some observations:
all sorts of inside electrical gremlins. there stereo wires all shorted out on my drive home... now it wont start. everything comes on but the starter wont kick the engine over. when i hit a bump or stab the breaks the interior light seems to dim slightly then light back up. its not a flicker, just a dim.

back window wont roll down, but i havent checked the power to the motor.

im going to dig in more tomorrow. i also have a check engine light and i need to figure out how to pull the codes. i found it somewhere before, ill just have to track it down again.

truck specs: 88 4runner, 22re, 5 speed, 218k

ALSO: it has NO CAT. the PO removed it... installed a straight pipe into a super 40. the 02 sensor is plumbed into the straight pipe. could not having a cat be an issue? (i dont know if there is supposed to be a cat before the downdraft sensor or not)

thanks!!!!!

(see photo below... somethin aint right! haha)

projectX4runner

As far as the starter not cranking anymore, check the fuses under the hood and any other ones on the drivers side under the dash. And the rear window does it not go down with the switch? have you tried with the key? Try cleaning the MAF see if that helps your idle. Also check the TPS. Sounds like it could be acting up in that rpm range ur talking about.

acousticrawk

well, this morning i pulled my codes. i have codes 5 and 11. 5 is for an 02 sensor, and 11... is a switch code:

IDL (tps) CONTACTS OFF, NEUTRAL START SWITCH OFF, A/C SWITCH "ON" SIGNAL TO ECU

WITH DIAGNOSTIC CHECK CONNECTOR SHORTED

--A/C SWITCH/CIRCUIT

--A/C AMPLIFIER

--TPS/CIRCUIT

--NEUTRAL START SWITCH/CIRCUIT

--ECU


see my last post for where im at now! def something going on no one seems to be able to make sense of!!!

see my last post for where im at now! def something going on no one seems to be able to make sense of!!!

Heres what im looking at: (also looks like my EGR is GONEZO!)


does anyone have a fuse box map for under the dash? (or under the hood) i dont have either. i have no idea what each fuse does...

as far as the rear window.. this is interesting to me too. the key does not go all the way into the ignition... only about an inch of it.. not sure if this is normal... the same key i use int he ignition wont even fit in the gas door or rear hatch to try and lower the glass... (i havent tried it in the doors yet)
TIA!!!

tj884Rdlx

my 88 only has on Ox sensor in the pipe right in front of the cat. it plugs in under the driver's seat. you may have an earlier exh. manifold on. don't worry about the O2 in it, unless it's leaking.

acousticrawk

thanks. thats the conclusion im coming too. how much od a bear is it to replace the o2 sensor under the truck? mine apparently needs replaced. the truck runs fine when it cold, and after a minute or two of running, it starts running like crap. very confused... im going to check the TPS once i can get it to start again. the starter is def bad. i pulled it, took the solenoid apart and cleaned it. the contacts look good, reinstalled it, and still nothing. even if i hit the starter with a hammer i get nothing, now.

also, there is no long bolt pushing the rear window motor switch... i jumper wired it... still nothing.

Magnusian

e: didn't see your above post

Whatever you do, make sure you get an OEM replacement, not a parts-store reman for the starter. If I was you I'd take it to a starter and alternator shop and have them fix it.

acousticrawk

i know, ive read that a bunch... im going to get a reman though. ive never had problems with them before. the only 2 shops that will rebuild a starter around here want twice as much as a new reman unit and they said even they would just sell me one of there reman units before they rebuilt mine.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

It is easy to test and inexpensive to repair the starter:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...epairVsReplace

acousticrawk

again:

my contacts show barely anywhere and i cleaned everything out and wire brushed it all out as well. i dont get a click or anything. just nothing.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Well, that is why you want to test the voltage to the starter solenoid (under load) as you likely have an issue prior to the starter. So replacing the starter will get you nowhere and you'll be discarding a perfectly good OEM starter and getting a rebuilt unit of unknown origin or quality.

Test link (posted earlier):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest

And some repair options:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions

Magnusian

Click his links, they aren't only about the contacts for the solenoid yanno. They also discuss how to solve other issues. To be a little more specific as to where to look on that page: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions

The reman's from Napa or PartSource or whatever are the ones to avoid, if the starter and alt shop has oem ones that they've rebuilt themselves then their remans are probably fine.

e: lol, beaten

cman1

iTrader: (1)

on the starter. make sure you have a good connection between the positive post on your battery and your hot (white wire ?) going to your fuse box right next to the battery.both my 86 and 89 had a iffy connection and did exactly what your saying!!!i know it sounds stupid...but...also make sure your window lock switch isnt on .

acousticrawk

ill test it when someone gets home to help me. i need a key turner. my next question is... if the starter isnt getting enough power... what do i do to fix it? i dont have time to wait for a painless wiring rely to come in the mail. found the starter relay... any way to test it? does anyone have a picture of what the fuses under the hood and under the dash are? my cover doesnt have anything printed on it.

tried the window lock button.. nothing...

acousticrawk

a new development... after testing the starter... im not getting any power to the starter... i wasnt able to make that tester jig, so what i did was just stab the voltmeter lead through the skinny starter wire and the other end right on battery negative. no voltage at all to the starter... none. im guessing its the relay? anyone know if there is a way to test or bypass the relay to see if its bad?

also, i was looking at the fuses inside... after i found out what they are.. and the bottom row middle fuse for the "engine" is missing... i put a 10a fuse in it and it was very loose and didnt really fit... after i wiggled it around i heard a click... with the assistance of my step brother, i found out, with that fuse in, the relay next to the back seat in the driver side wall clicks, with the key in or not.. all of my gauges come on. also, when i try to operate the rear window, i get a draw and all the lights dim, (with that fuse in place, key in or not) and also, when i key on the starter with that fuse in place i get a draw as well.... but no no click from the starter or anything.

im at a loss....

acousticrawk

anyone?! anything?!

acousticrawk

also, just realized my fuel pump wires are shot and some of my random wiring is for the fuel pump. im going to rewire it the right way today... anyone have a fuel pump wire diagram?

corax

Here's a link to the Field Service Manuals (FSMs) to help you out a bit - I think there's a full wiring diagram in there somewhere also
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/

TylerH

You can run a wire straight from your battery to your starter, and just touch the contacts like in the links above. Just make sure its not in gear.

tj884Rdlx

the hard part of changing the O2 is removal. you may have to take a torch to the two bolts that hold it in. it's not the type that screws out with an O2 socket.

be sure to use a toyota or denso branded replacement.

there's a plug in the floor where the harness feeds through to connect under the driver's seat.

there's a couple sensors available that will work, but their wiring varies in length. ours takes the longer version, which is a little pricier. i found a good deal on a toyota brand sensor on fleabay, but the wiring was too short. so i cut the ends and spliced the existing wiring to the new sensor.

acousticrawk

IT LIVES!!!

after much tracing wires, and poking wires and connectors with the multimeter re wired the fuel pump into an ignition power source (hopefully not something that cuts out when the lights are turned on or something.) its a THICK blue wire... and as for the starter... i dont know... i pulled and checked all the fuses, and noticed the lowest left relay on the interior fuse panel was getting very hot. im not sure what that relay is for... but after pulling it out and pushing it back on, the truck fired right up. the starter is fine. im going to replace the ignition relay as well as that round 4 blade relay on the inside just to be safe.

me "egine" fuse is still out and i dont know what that controls.. my gauges are workign via a jumper wire installed by the previous owner, to a red wire under the hood on the drives side near the fender. he just used one of those crappy snap on wire jumper, splicedd into that line with constant 12v power and a switch... i removed the switch and put it on 12v ignition power. not sure what will happen if i remove it and install the "engine" fuse.

next on the agenda... making the rear window roll down. i dont have the correct keys for the doors, only the ignition so i cant even test to see if the motors is any good. i will say, i have NO POWER to the switch. i do know i put the engine fuse back in, and got the little relay in the rear drivers side kick panel to click, but still didnt get anything from the back window. i wasnt able to check the switch at that time.

any suggestions? i retied all the easy stuff on 4crawlers site as well btw.