Numbchux

Let me clarify some of things I said, as obviously I didn't explain myself very well.


When I said making sure you have a good strong battery, I don't mean getting something bigger than stock, just make sure it's healthy. I agree that starting an engine at 40 below with brute force alone is a terrible idea, but the truth is, Minnesota is not that cold. I'd be surprised if it was zero or less here more than about 10 days a year.


Never owned a car with a weatherfront, but the only times I considered trying one, I threw a thermostat in there, and never went back. A thermostat regulates, and almost completely blocks the coolant flow through the radiator. So if the thermostat is working correctly, I see no benefit for blocking airflow through the rad.



There's a reason I used the phrase IMO (In My Opinion) in both of those statements in my first post. They're both very much opinion. While I've never driven a Toyota truck in the winter, I'm not new to driving old, high-mileage cars. The last several years, I've relied on my '92 Celica to get me to work every day, year round. Before that was my '92 Subaru which had 280k miles on the engine when I sold it. Spent a couple years DDing Subaru XT6s. This year I've got a '96 Outback with about 225k on the engine.


There's also a reason I asked where he was (more than just curious at the idea of a fellow YT member in the area). The climate between Windom and International Falls is extremely different. And my answer between the 2 is going to change considerably.

Yamiryder

4 cylinder models had manual hubs through 95.5, when the Tacoma took over.

FGZ

Pumping the gas pedal before you start the motor doesn't do anything on an EFI vehicle, that method is left over from carburetor days. EDIT: just saw your '87 has a 22R, now I see why the pumping! And the odd sound while it's still warming up - hopefully you're giving it at least 5 minutes or more of idle time before you start driving? And like others said, take it easy on it at first. Glad to hear it is starting right up for you!

I'm in MA and we only see single digit temps maybe a dozen times in a winter. But I'm trying to help my old '85 as much as I can, and I want a warmer (defrost, heat) truck faster so I think I'm going with a magnetic oil pan heater for this year and will swap that out for a block heater in the future. I've only had the truck a month and it is my DD so there is only so I want to put off the block heater install till later.

JohnnyCanuck

Be carefull with oil pan heaters. Some of the after market magnetic heaters will cook your oil, I found out the hard way. I had a nice one from a Dodge cummins on my previous truck, I wish I would have kept it. Toyota's factory block heater placement (on the 3.0) is right beside the oil filter which is a great place for it.

FGZ

Thanks for the input, I have heard that elsewhere too. On one hand, I could just use it sparingly, like for only an hour before startup. But then, it's nearly $50 at amazon for something I'm going to use 10 more times this year, I might just stick with my all-night 100W light bulb+insulated box. That little bit of heat helped a lot during the last polar vortex, I'll just do it again for the one we have coming in a few weeks.

Maybe by next year I will get THIS installed. Note: the KATS CATALOG lists the instal location as right front instead of NAPA's site which says left front.

Teuf

In NH I used to have a low watt light bulb pointed up to my oil pan go on 1 hour before I got in, that helped speed warm up. And or I would VERY slowly drive ( light load) after 1 minute of running time....... An engine warms up quicker under load. ( AS IN LIGHT LOAD IN SUPER COLD MORNS )

woodyth

iTrader: (1)

Really tempted to tear into putting a block heater today. Temps are supposed to drop today as the polar vortex heads into round 2. I bought the magnetic one for 45 bucks but the cord is really barley 5 inches long. The freeze plug block heater doesn't look too hard and I think I could get it done in a couple hours. I guess my biggest question is how do I get the old one out and as far as getting new one in, is there a tool to use, or just tapping edge in with a hammer? 40 mm is the one they said I need does that sound correct?

Thanks,
Woody

FGZ

KATS block heater install instructions offer a little more detail to some of your questions, but not a lot.

woodyth

iTrader: (1)

just for anyone that is a little nervous as was i when I put the freeze plug heaterin. I guess the best advice I can give is to be very careful when knocking freezeplug in, I almost dropped it in. It started tomove so I tapped a little harder and tink, luckily i was able to push the plug against the inside and grab it with a pliers and pull it out. I didn't use any fpig, just tightened snug and haven't had a leak yet. Really nice to start now, and now that I plug in a work also, its great. I plug it in when I get home and unlug before I leave. I'll chance it going out in a year or two and replace it, just to have the sense of security.

Marc

Glad you got it in.

They last for a good long time. I have 3 - 20 year old vehicles that all have their original block heaters.
I have replaced a few cords though...

It helps to plug it into a glug that will pull straight out if you forget to unplug it. Believe me it happens. I zip tie the heater cord to the grill.

Also, if you put it on a timer you can save some money. You only need about 3 hours to warm up the block sufficiently.

JohnnyCanuck

The standard block heater cords are terribly thin and poorly made, and people tend to pull on the cord rather than the plug and eventually they separate the wires and short it out. I buy a short - 1' to 2' - outdoor exenstion cord, plug it into the block heater cord and use the nice thick extension cord end to plug it in.

toy89yota

Dude it's just Minn, not that cold there haha. I have lived in ND since I was 2 so I guess I'm just used to the cold.

This is what I do to keep my truck alive in the winter.

Block heater (glad you got one)
Decent tow strap (not a garbage one with hooks)
Decent shovel (I keep a grain scoop shovel in my truck)
Can of starting fluid/ether
All terrain tires, no sipping required.
50/50 mix quality coolant and water
Window ice scrapper
I run 5w30 in the winter in my 22RE
Battery tender on power strip tied in with block heater so both run at the same time.
A quality battery with at least 900 cold cranking amps

As you are located in Minn your going to want to wash your truck at least twice a month, whatever that commie state puts on their roads loves to create rust.