SwampThing

Ouch, people are a little touchy round here aint they?

Nah I appriciate all the info yall gave me. It's why I ended up gettin some new tires instead of welding it. But I am hardheaded as hell, and have to touch that fire to see if it really was as hot as they said lol.

AxleIke

You didn't hurt my feelings.

This thread has simply degraded at this point. It started out with folks who have selectable fronts telling a guy not to weld. We told him this becasue when our selectable fronts are engaged, the truck doesn't turn. We did not tell him to go buy an ARB, just that welding isn't a good idea.

Then a trutrac was suggested. So, those of us with tru tracs also piped up. I have one, i don't like it. I said so. Others gave their opionions and suggested saving for an ARB instead. I wish i had. My trutrac was 400. Only 350 more and i could have gotten what i wanted. That's beside the point though.

Once opinions were advanced, people informed those of us who had advanced said opinions that they were sick of us. I think SwampThing has gotten what he needed, or at least it seems that he has.

Lastly, Swampthing, i have a diff i'll sell you from my 7.5. If you do decide to weld yours, in the event that you don't like it (not saying you won't, but if you don't) let me know if you are interested.

bamachem

ARB is the ONLY CORRECT way to lock the front of an IFS, DD rig. period.

everything else is a band aid until you save up the money to upgrade to what should have been put there the first time you tore down the diff.

double-arb's here. expensive, and not used all that much, but a decision i have never once regretted.

Albuquerque Jim

I gotta agree, I did the rear locker - front TrueTrac thing for a few years. I only paid $200 for it, so it was a lot cheaper than an ARB at the time. It worked OK...painful at times to get places a locker walks through.

The first time I broke an axle shaft I couldn't even back off of the obstacle I was on because all the torque when to the broken side. It was time for an ARB.

Do what you want, you have the info you asked for. That's the way I look at threads like this.

tc

One other thing to consider:

One of the TTORA guys I wheel with put an Aussie in the front. After the first time out, he was so pissed at not being able to turn, that he had to put in a twinstick. When it was all said and done, he had almost the same amount of cash into it if he had done ARB in the first place.

shaeff

this is a very informative thread. i did a brief search, but came to inconclusive results. i thought i saw somewhere on the 'net that someone adapted an E-locker to the FRONT of his truck? was this my imagination, as i can't find it again?

i'd rather have dual E-lockers if i can, but if that's not possible, i'll keep the ARB in the back of my head. i figure that i'd use the rear locker most of the time off road, while keeping the front un-locked, then if i come to a sticky situation, just lock the front. that way i keep my tight turning radius, but have the ability to lock both front and rear.

thoughts, opinions, flames?

thanks.

-shaeff

mt_goat

I'm pretty sure a front e-locker is an option as long as you have a SFA.

tc

You could adapt a elocker to go into a front solid axle, but not IFS.

That's EXACTLY how/why selectable lockers are in my truck.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Just to clarify, I didn't mean I was pissed off AT anyone. If I had the cash I would be running twin ARBs, they are no doubt the superior locker.

People have very different philosophies about how they build their trucks, and have varying depths of pockets.

I respect you guys that settle for nothing but the best mods. I think I am just jealous

SwampThing

Yeah, if I had that kind of disposable income, you better believe I'd have the best of everything. I'd have a fleet of yotas, each made specifically for certain types of offroading (mudding, rockcrawling, baja, ect). Ahh... Well, a guy can dream right??

But anyhoo, since I gotta live with my limited playing-around budget, I usually end up doing the homebrewed way, or the cheap-but-works way ya know? But definitly some good information in this thread. Hope it helps some other people lookin for the same info.

But being mindful about your money really isn't such a bad thing. Cause to me "If I weld my rear end instead of getting an arb, even though it'll make my tires chirp and my tirewear increase a little, I can save enough to buy me a powertank. And even though a powertank isn't as good as other oba systems, I'll save enough to get me a 36" hilift. And even though I'd rather have that 48" hilift, the 36" will work, and I'll save enough to get me that extra rim that I've been needing for my spare for a long ass time!"

Cause to me, if it's cheaper and it works with few negatives, so much the better, cause then you can spend that money on something else you need.

shaeff

i've got one, although i haven't the cash to install it as of yet. off my '85 parts truck. best $500 i ever spent!

that's perfectly fine. looks like that might be the route i'm going. i think i'll get through any of the terrain around here with 33x12.5's, a little lift, dual lockers and a SFA.

your way seems to be full of options as well. i like options. thanks for the input!

i'm one to just save my money until i can get what i want, rather than doing the same job twice to get the result that i wanted the first time around.

-shaeff

SwampThing

OH yeah. Dunno why alot of people rag on 12.5" wide meats, but I love em on my runner! They stick out past the body a good 2" or so and really throw mud all over. Bit of advice, don't go with procomp xterrains. I hated em. Got 33x12.5x15 bfg m/t's on er now and I love em to death.

Strap22

Even ARB's cause CV's to blow when you get them in a bind. I know I have replaced a couple in the last month. Couldn't get them unspooled fast enough.

As for the 12.5 I also attribute them to the failed CV's when locked. Just my opinion.Of course I am running trails I should take the bypass on. Guess I am hardheaded too......Good luck.....

shaeff

eh, i personally don't like the "Tall and thin" look. i'm building my truck for me, and i don't give a crap if people don't like it. :p

i was planning on going with goodyear MTR's (33x12.5).

thanks for the info nonetheless!

-shaeff