Thelast83inNJ

I didn't read it all the way through, but DHONDAGOD would be the track I'd follow. P/S you are looking for exhaust presence on the bottom hose to the modulator. If it stalls like you said, the tube is open.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

For sure the FSM tests will find if you have any dead parts, but they won't find marginal parts.

On the LC header, if indeed you have one, check the EGR gas passage in the header flange. On mine, the weld bead where the header tube is welded to the flange protruded half way into the flange. So I ground all those down to port th flange for better flow. Then I also modified the exhaust header gasket by removing the little web of gasket between the big exhaust port and the small EGR port. I found that web of gasket had a lot of carbon buildup and that further blocked the flow.

You cna also do a "lambda" calculation (find a how-to by searching) and see if you have some air/fuel mixture issues.

scope103

I wouldn't pay much attention to DHONDAGOD. You would never back-probe an O2 sensor. First, it's a sealed connector (it's hanging underneath the truck in all the salt spray), and if you managed to back probe it anyway you'd ruin the connector. As importantly, the leads of the O2 sensor are brought out in the diagnostic connector -- both raw signal and processed -- so checking the O2 sensor doesn't even require getting under the truck (and no, you don't need an expensive graphing multimeter, but it is more fun to use. The best tool, incredibly, is an old-fashioned needle-type meter if you can get one with a low enough voltage range).

Remember that your truck worked just fine for the first umpteen years of its life; without horsing around with the timing or back pressure or using premium fuel or bribing the test station. If you failed on NOx it's because something is broken, and it is almost certainly in the EGR system. That what the EGR does; that's ALL it does.

Just to put some numbers on it, the California limit for my 18-year old truck is 550ppm, but the average of those who pass is only 53 (mine was 43). So if you fail, you're putting out a LOT of deadly pollutants, and something is definitely broken. This is not something you're going to fix by changing the gas you buy.

So read the FSM, run the tests until you find the problem, and then fix it. Job done.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

The later 22RE EGR system, like your ~94 model, is different than the early models. You have the ECU controlling EGR operation via a VSV and you also have the PAIR system that I think helps with emissions and the early engines have none of that. But yes, do all the tests and see if any parts are flat out not working, but you can pass all the FSM tests and still fail smog, BTDT. Probably worth a new modulator, that will be the next thing I pick up for mine.

Some good info below:
- http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h56.pdf

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, RW, NJ, Roger and Scope, ..... I appreciate all answers and with multiple, I can fish through, combine them with the results I've gotten from the FSM thus far and hopefully, if I can't get the FSM to tell me "something has failed".... I can at least find one that is 'questionable enough' to warrant some specific action.

RW, Yeah, ... I did drive it around 5 miles in traffic in L.A.(around 15 minutes total) to get there... Then he had to turn it off to do multiple visual inspections(bout 5-10 minutes/ Can't be sure I recall, exactly)... He then started it back up and revved it for a bit and then began the dyno test. Funny thing, I was going to drive further past it to the freeway, take a drive for 10 and then head back... But I saw no one was in line, so I pulled in OOPS! lol. (I still think something, if not broken, is at least 'Marginal', as Roger pointed out)

Last83inNJ, It indeed stalls, fairly quickly, whether idling or at 3000RPM(And with minimal pull of vacuum). It also passes(whether marginal or not) most every test up to this point(I've done everything, I believe, but the 'Modulator' and 'removal of EGR for inspection' portions on EC-13/14.

4Crawler/Roger, Again, the first sentence you mentioned about the "wont find 'marginal' parts, so much"...That makes sense, totally. I think this is where the Lambda tool comes in for some Smog Tech Mechanics, right? They measure all 5 and can really pinpoint where things are a miss/Especially if they've done all the tests I'm doing and find nothing ''conclusive'', however questionable it might be. OH, and yes, it's a "CARB STAMPED" LCE 4-1 Header... The Smog Guy verified and told me, "You would have failed, otherwise, without that stamp". I've done no porting or tweeking of the mani... But I will if I have to ahhhhh, lol.

Just for S&G's, I found this site and did a LAMBDA of the 25MPH Portion of the Test;

http://www.smogsite.com/calculators.html

MY RESULT; LAMBDA=1.011 ...... Fuel/Air Ratio=14.87

The Quote under where mine fell on the 'sliding scale' .....

= 1.0 perfect for emission and CAT operation (1.005 to 0.995 good for CAT operation)

(Is that test, above, what you're speaking of, Roger? I need to look into what that means... But I've read a bit on it and watched that mechanic that helped me figure out my 1st Machinist screwed me, lol... He ran it on propane until he got the perfect Air/Fuel Ratio, in order to rule out/verify-problematic the EFI system.... It was "Mechanical" in the end, terrible machining[which has ALL since been addressed and hopefully done to quality standards by myself and a HONEST AND GOOD machinist] ....)

Scope, I have a Dial/Multi-Meter... I'll check to see it's range of voltage/how low, etc. Oscilloscope/5 Way Meters ARE what Smog Repair Guys use, right? Not sure what that LAMBDA calculation I posted just above this 'means'.... But I'd bet it's supposed to tell me if part of my issue is within the 'Fuel/Air' Ratio, right? (Or maybe IT IS MY Fuel/Air Ratio, roughly). lol.

Thanks for bearing with me... I am taking note of everything you've said in a Word Doc.... And I'm trying to test everything within the FSM as quickly as I can. Between work and caregiving for my Stepfather(open heart/stroke/diabetes/parkinsons/dementia/diabetic neuropathy/spinal stenosis).... I'm a bit overwhelmed and also mentally challenged in the 'MEMORY' dept. right now(why I'm taking notes so well, lol)...

So, just to clarify... What Roger(4crawler) is saying above... Isn't that possibly what I'm experiencing, regarding "All tests in the FSM are inconclusive as to pinpointing a 'CULPRIT' in the search for a cause of my failure in NOX".... Isn't it possible that SOMETHING within the EGR system or the semantics that operate it are 'NOT ENOUGH' damaged to show 'failure'..... IF so, where do I go from there, first? I want to take the path YOU would take, were you to have this rig in your shop, ya know? (HEY, you're in the San Fran Area like Roger, lol.... Wish your shop was closer, I'd stop by and 'learn in person' through pay, no doubt! lol)

PS> If I DID need a Smog Repair Pro.... Does anyone know one IN L.A. or surrounding(within 30 miles) that I could hit up? I'm going to ask my Smog Test Guy.... But I think he did tell me, "Most of the guys I knew have moved on/gone out of business due to state/Local 'cost of biz' ".... Still, worth another ask. Anyone?

PSS> I'll do the rest of the tests, Today, if Possible. THANKS, GUYS... I promise, I'm doing my best to work out a 'P.O.E.'(Process of Elimination)

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Roger, please see my answers/data, in above post? Thanks^^

THANKS for these links, for everything really.

I posted the results of my LAMBDA Test on the post above.... Only for the 25MPH portion, WHICH I FAILED, lol. Oddly enough it's saying that my combustion / Fuel Ratio is great/CAT operation fantastic.... So apparently there's a lot to what you said, regarding, "CAT's do not always do a good job on the NOX-PPM section".... And maybe the "Earlier model 22RE's have more difficulty with CA Emissions" statement as well...

I will finish the modulator testing and maybe even pull the EGR(If it's really clogged in spots I missed... Great, I'll clean it out... If not, I'll possibly replace it or at least replace the Modulator). We'll see what I find. hahahaha

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

(I answered you guys and added some above... Roger and Scope, etc... But decided to summarize to maybe help people get to TOTALITY of most of what's been asked, plus "then some", lol).....

Copy and pasting this from another smog thread/lots of this one and my build, etc.....
************************************************** **********>>>

* Emissions Vacuum Routing checks out as directed by FSM and Hood Sticker



* Ran a couple tests with Vacuum Gauge + More >>>>>>>



In EC-13, #1, the Modulator appears to be clean still. I will blow it out with air, regardless.

In EC-13, #2 and #3,.... I verified it started.

In EC-13, #4, .... I think in moving out to the driveway I got it above 86*F (However, it was under 2" vacuum at 3500RPM, much lower than it was in step #5, warmed up)

In EC-13, #5, Steps A and B .... I warmed it up for several minutes and tested as instructed; It showed under 3" Vacuum(Maybe 2.5"?)

In EC-13, #5, Steps C, D ...Hooked up as instructed and found 15-18" Vacuum as I hit 3000RPM(give or take)

In EC-14, #6, .... I had done a video of this... I applied direct vacuum to the top of the EGR... The motor DID, in fact, want to die, quickly.(Whether at idle or 3000RPM)

in EC-14, regarding the "BVSV" portion.... Cold and Hot.... It passed both tests.... "Blow air into the J while under 86*F(I did it when cold) and be sure that Air passes through the J(lower) port and out the Top(basket/filter).... Then, warm up above 111*F and you should be able to blow air into J and have it come out K port(Upper on the BVSV)".... As I said, passed both tests with flying colors, no resistance, etc.

In EC-14, Modulator Portion.... I'm NOT SURE! I tested by blowing air while not running, through "Q", while plugging up "R" and "P"..... Seemed air flowed out the top/filter ok. In the second part of testing, "Run at 3500RPM and repeat the previous test... Resistance should be dramatically increased"(shouldn't be able to blow air through it really well while plugging R and P and blowing into Q). I also noticed that the Filter in the Original is MUCH dirtier than I thought I'd left it. I can see a TWO black dots on the Bottom-most filter, which confirms that I've been in there and blew air through it, even moved it clockwise 20-degrees or so... But when I opened the "DONOR" I got from a low miles 2WD at Pick-Your-Part... it was MUCH easier to see light through it and was CLEARLY, visibly much whiter and cleaner! I THEN switched the Filters and finally did the "Modulator Testing" mentioned above... And got the results I mentioned("Didn't seem to be MUCH MORE resistant at 3500RPM than while 'engine off'.")

Some things I haven't done which I haven't seen mentioned, is "Blow air through the vacuum rails one at a time to be sure they will pass air without restriction"... Yes, that's my own quotes of my thoughts, lol. I would think they're working as the rig passed all the other tests... But I can't be sure until I rule it out, ya know?

I did a LAMBDA of the 25MPH Portion of the Test(The Portion I failed);

http://www.smogsite.com/calculators.html

MY RESULT; LAMBDA=1.011 ...... Fuel/Air Ratio=14.87

The Quote under where mine fell on the 'sliding scale' .....

= 1.0 perfect for emission and CAT operation (1.005 to 0.995 good for CAT operation)


************************************************** *********************

I've not really done any 02 Testing, but as I believe I've posted already...

NEW/er(within 5K);

*Denso 02
*Denso CTS
*OEM TPS
*Radiator
*Water pump
*Oil Pump
*Fuel Pump
*C.O.R.(Circuit Open Relay)
*OEM Thermostatic Temp Time Switch(behind Stat)
*RC Serviced Injectors(including CSI)
*Fuel Filter
*Air intake Elbow and In-tact Pipe
*OEM Air Filter
*8.5MM Magnecore LCE Wire Kit
*OEM Cap and Rotor
*All new Vacuum Lines(including Larger OEM IACV lines)
*OEM IACV
*Flushed Heater Core(Heater and AC Work well)
*All new OEM Denso AC Seals throughout/OEM Drier and Charged
*Fully Rebuilt motor(hot tanked/air flushed and reamed 3+ times, both head and block)
*3-way CAT(magnaflow I believe, from a reputable shop)
*LCE Header(C.A.R.B. Stamped) and All new Pipe to CAT to Borla to 2.50" Tapered Tip
*Aisin HD Clutch Kit/Slave and Master as well
*New Rotors and Drums/also cylinders and Calipers
*Resurfaced Flywheel
*Belts/H20 Hoses
*Starter
*Steering Pump(& 66K Mile Gear Box from 2wd)
*IFS Restoration(95%)
*Fully Cleaned Throttle Body/Plenum/Intake
*CAM/Springs/Valves/Adjusters-& lapped rockers/Guides/Seals/HG
*Rings/Pistons/Crank-10-10/Bearings
*Doesn't Leak a DROP, front to back


What's NOT new;

*EGR / Modulator / BVSV
*CSI-Time Switch
*Distributor
*Coil and Ignitor
*Injector Resistor
*FPR(Fuel Pressure Regulator)
*Fuel Pressure Damper(Front of Rail)
*Heater Core
*AFM(Purchased an unmolested one from JBM715 on here as mine had been 'tampered with', lol)
*ECU
*Neither VSV's, FPR or AC, are new
*The driver, OBVIOUSLY, hahaha.

************************************************** **********************

I'm ONLY posting this in order to help someone in the future... In my own Smog thread, there's much more info and input from Smog Pros like "SCOPE" and "4Crawler". Hopefully, as I stated, it will help someone like me in the future who is really in a spot in life in many ways and NEEDS A BREAK! lol.

I have one question I would LOVE answered without having to purchase to Modulator just to find out.....

*** WHEN I PULL VACUUM ON THE BOTTOM OF THE MODULATOR, SHOULD IT, LIKE THE EGR, HOLD VACUUM AT 5" FOR A DECENT AMOUNT OF TIME? ........(Mine does not, and I don't see that as a test in the FSM, whatsoever. And if it's NOT supposed to "Hold Vacuum", ...well, that would answer me as to why it's not in the FSM, lol)

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Looks like the A/F ratio is a bit lean, 14.7 is the magic number and leaner = hotter = more NOx.

In fact cooler temps are what EGR is all about, adding inert gas to mix to take the place of air/O2. That exhaust does not burn, so less heat is produced. My take is that for EGR to work on the smog dyno, it is all about flow of exhaust gas. The EGR pipes are pretty small compared to the intake. Then the only way exhaust gas can flow is due to pressure difference, exhaust pressure = intake pressure. Doing idle tests like in the FSM work fine because you have a strong 20" intake vacuum, so it'll suck in all the exhaust you need to kill the engine. But put it on a dyno with the little 22RE almost flat out, I would guess intake vacuum is maybe 5"-10" Hg, so not as much suction and the intake air flow is way high because throttle is wide open. Exhaust pressure may be somewhat higher, but you still have whatever pressure difference there is and whatever flow restriction there is and that gives you some amount of EGR flow. If that flow is enough to be effective at load, your NOx drops, if it is not enough, your NOx is high. Since there is not a lot you can do about the pressures, about all you can do is minimize the restrictions.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, that makes sense. So, you're saying I might need to open up the EGR to double check/possibly port it out a lil?.... And on top of that, as you said, I might have an issue with the Modulator that is just not going to allow me to pass>>>???

I can't be sure how much having a header and 2.25" exhaust/or the 02 being so far back on the LCE Header Pipe is/are having an affect......

I can't be sure my EGR/OR MODULATOR/OR BOTH are doing their jobs enough to cool down the NOX.....

I guess I might as well just remove the EGR and triple check that it's 'clean enough' to do it's job/or replace it. Maybe just replace the Modulator. I'm going to first do that test of the Modulator again, to measure "Not Running" against "3500 RPM", blowing on the Q while plugging P and R.

Yeah.... feels like I'm again..... If only it were that easy to decide if the horse is dead or alive... lol.

************************************************** **********

Just so I'm clear, ....Obviously, the far left port next to the intake ports is the EGR inlet(Which you can see I cleaned out as well as I could through the Heads EGR port..........


But, I have to be honest.... I'm not sure I know which ports on the Exhaust Ports of the Head is for the EGR... Are they the ones toward the center, lower side, just next to/diagonally-down left and right of the center 2 exhaust ports???..........


Shot after short block assembly, getting ready to slap it all together....

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

OK, well I went out and re-checked the 'Modulator' test.

With the engine off;

1. Pull the Q, P and R hoses off the Modulator
2. Blow air through the Q port while plugging off the P and R with your fingers
3. Air should easily pass out of the top/filter

With the engine running at 3500 RPM;

1. Repeat the above procedure
2. You should notice much more resistance while blowing into Q while P and R are plugged at 3500 RPM.

**********

Again, I CAN NOT say that I notice a much larger amount of resistance while blowing into Q. I could CLEARLY feel the modulator diaphragm vibrating as it fluctuated.. If I blew at a certain pressure I could REALLY feel that vibration. As I blew harder, I could feel it less.

I'm still not sure if the Modulator should hold 5" vacuum applied to the bottom/larger hose. Or maybe to the Q port while the others, P and R are plugged?

I hate to throw money at it, ... but I've cleaned most of the ports REALLY well with a hot tanking 3x session and forced air/brushes, etc., in the head... And remember cleaning the EGR very well, also. The reason I ask about the Modulator holding 5" vacuum is because the EGR DID! lol....

Oh well... I'm kind of at a wall until I pull the EGR or further test the 02, etc. I've been told the 02 isn't likely to be my culprit...And it's a new Denso. But it IS further back on the pipe... And thats' something that was NOT going on when I passed with a tired old 254K old motor and orig. CAT! lol.

Still, I do remember the Smog Dude telling me, 2 years ago, "Mark, this one is close, ..... and it's usually the Modulator".... I just can't remember what my results were. I'd have to request them or something(Should have scanned them like this time..but wasn't thinking that deeply into ANYTHING back then! lol... Guess I've changed that up a bit, eh? hahaha........ahhhhh) lol.

I guess for 60$+ or so for that Modulator it's not that much to ask of me as a vehicle after 25 years and 264K miles, ya know? The EGR, on the other hand.... That aint so cheap, lol... I'm not so 'loaded' at the moment, either, lol.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Here's where I'm at to date with my "CA Smog Test Failure" Dilemma, guys;

1. I've inspected and verified all vacuum routing
2. I've run every FSM test available and the Modulator is "questionable" on the test on EC-14/Running at 3500 RPM with Air blown into Q while P and R are plugged should have far greater resistance.
3. EGR seems to be operating at least 'fairly', and did pass every test
4. BVSV passed all FSM tests
5. While I know FSM tests are there to find 'likely culprits', as 4Crawler/Roger said, "It's not going to 'RULE OUT' things for sure".
6. My CAT and 02 Sensor are almost new(while I don't KNOW they're perfect, I doubt they're my primary problem and they aren't 'likely' the culprit
7. The 22RE is just not treated fairly in these CA Smog Tests, especially regarding the 15 and 25mph tests/Especially on the NOX END!
8. I've been reading for HOURS and I'm beginning to lose my patience/as I lose time I don't really have.... So I need to go for the most likely culprits and try everything I've learned on Pirate/Yotatech/Marlin(Big Mike has a LONG thread about this... http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=1119.0 ...) .

Some of the things I've read regarding "Passing Smog";

1. Use a Higher Octane Gas and Add RXB Gas Kicker ..... http://www.rxp.com/whereto.htm
2. Keep timing as low as it will allow, making the mix richer (+ or - 3*)
3. 4crawler made a restrictor plate for his exhaust which caused more backpressure
4. Modulator is INDEED a common problem(many have posted that FRIENDLY Dealer Tech's slapped one in and it IMMEDIATELY cured the NOX issue)
5. EGR Cleaning(we've all been over that 100 times! But 4crawler recommends using a gun cleaning kit w/gun cleaning solution/it's designed to remove carbon deposits, etc.)
6. Run the vehicle for a good time and on the freeway before pulling in. Then leave it running while waiting, heater on and fan on full blast(Big Mike says running it like this will allow the CAT to get smoking hot/where it does it's best work/ and the heater trick will cool the engine down simultaneously, lowering combustion temps which cause High NOX)???
7. Before you pull in and until he puts it on the dyno, rev and hold the RPM's at like 3000 for a bit, this also will keep the CAT from cooling down while he get's in and tries to get the RPM just right for the stupid 15 and 25MPH tests! GRRRR! LOL
8. Some use Methanol or Alcohol in the Tank
9. Some swear 87 Octane is better cuz it burns more fully, causing less 'unburnt fuel'
10. Roger also ported out his EGR passages all around, from what I know... I don't think I can go that far this time... Just barely finding enough time to research this stuff.
11. Some swear Having a hot chick dancing around in front of the guy can help...... Depends on the guy I guess, haha.

Point is, there are those and around 400 OTHER methods that will 'likely lower your nox'.... My neighbor has a Station that offers this crazy gas that guys use to pass Smog without issue all the time. I will look more into that and post up. Another point is that I CAN NOT be sure that my Modulator is doing it's job 100%... And if it's even 30% from "TOTAL FUNCTIONALITY", I imagine it's going to cause improper EGRecirculation, ya know? It's gotten me through every test since 2002.... I guess it is a light investment in something I can't be sure on. The EGR, I'm not so much in a hurry to replace... But I can't be sure either way what's causing my NOX to be so rude and out of control! lol.

I tell ya... this is REALLY annoying, that's something I know FOR CERTAIN! I'm not a tree hugger...but I'm not a big fan of the HORRIFIC smog in L.A., either. HOWEVER... Most guys with rigs like ours... They have to do MULTIPLE things to get them to pass and then, afterward, switch everything back until 'next time', because otherwise, the thing might melt down from being set to a mixture/etc., that NO ONE WOULD EVER run.. I've said all I can about CARB... I have much info to back it up, but I DON'T CARE bout that right now... I just wanna pass! lol....

JohnnyCanuck

Wow, hope you get it sorted. Makes me glad we don't have those regs up here.

Grego92

iTrader: (4)

Mark, not to rub salt in the wound but to give you some motivation...here are my smog results after my rebuild. I had about 75 miles on the rebuild when I took it in for smog. LCE header just like you but have a stock cat. My gas was 1/4 tank 6-7 month old stuff and 3/4 91 octane chevron with a 1/3 bottle of seafoam.



You can do it!!! Like I mentioned before, I have a couple of modulators you can use/test out. I don't know if the smog guy will let you run the test twice, but maybe buy a new one but hold onto the receipt and don't open it. Put a new used one on but have the new one with you....if you pass return the new one, if you fail again but numbers are better try swap them out right there and cross your fingers.

EDIT: something that is interesting in comparing is that your NO is significantly higher at 25MPH than 15, whereas mine is significantly lower at 25MPH than 15. Could that be a clue?.....more bad stuff the more you accelerate?

snowshredder555

Now thats a clean well running engine.. I hated Ca. emissions testing, but still have to deal with em' here in Phx.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, it sux, Johnny. Amazing how frustrated this can make us... And it's NOT totally uncommon. Thanks, I hope so too

Grego, sup man? Wow, congratz! Yeah, I noticed, reading the "Big Mike of Marlin" threads(being that it's 10 pages long! lol), that some had issues with 15 and some with 25. Most had issues with NOX and only a couple had issues with HC, 02 or CO.

There's even a elaborate post on 'OEM vs. Modern day 3 way CAT's' and how the Orig's were SO much more effective cuz they had such a HUGE amount of 'element surface inside' compared to the new ones.... like 3 times. They basically were saying that 'the new ones SUCK!'.... I finally got rid of my orig.(Pretty certain), just 6 months ago or so. I can't be sure, but I think it was original. It was passing with it, that's what I DO know.

I think part of "MY" problem is backpressure... I read, Grego.. You said you have the LCE Header.. But, if you had original CAT, then you might have had a smaller down pipe and definitely had a smaller inlet and outlet on the OEM CAT than my new 2.25" one. The larger diameter pipe causes less back pressure(which is largely what causes the EGR to work) and the restriction also causes the 'elements' to stay in the CAT longer, allowing it to do it's job more efficiently. As I mentioned, they(CAT's) also work better when they're hotter... They're designed to.

You know, man, reading posts like a guy on there who said, "I failed at the dealer, then the guy ran and got a new modulator he had in stock for the heck of it... It passed with flying colors" and I suddenly feel, "I GOT IT!"... BUTTTT, ....that would be ignorant of me... There are MANY things in play in passing emissions/in the differences of motors.

I read some stuff about the Coolant Temp Sensor as well(CTS) and I think it's work taking the simple multi-meter readings of mine.

I don't think the guy will let me test twice after just failing. Pretty sure the machines don't let you. I'd have to look into it. Mainly cuz he's a 'TEST ONLY' station, which I'm required to go to instead of "pass or don't pay", like some are.

Personally, I can see why some just 'pay'... But this might not be a 'positive' move for my motor, ya know? I mean, it is clearly running too lean(Lean = Higher Combustion Temps.... which also means HIGH NOX)

I have a lil more time.... And I have the CRV while the Yota is "OUT OF COMISH", lol(Shouldn't take long to do/test what I want). One problem is that I have a full tank of 87 from Costco.... I HAVE NO IDEA what to believe on the "Use Premium for smog test"... "NO, use 87, it burns more completely so less 'leftovers' " .... CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHY WHICH FUEL IS THE BEST?

I want to pass like THIS RIG WAS SUPPOSED TO ORIGINALLY, lol... But I realize that I've changed quite a few things from how it was, factory orig.... And while it's MUCH more powerful than stock... it's DEFINITELY going to suffer on the 'smog' end, to some degree or another, because of it, lol

I might do that on the Modulator, Grego.... Maybe I could test yours on your rig and see if there's a huge diff in 'air flow' resistance on those 2 different tests? I mean, you passed, ...sooo... lol. I don't mind buying a new one.. just would be nice to know it's going to do 'part of the trick', ya know?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thought I'd post a few links on "HIGH NOX" troubleshooting and causes;

First, one that Roger inspired me to look for regarding the "LAMBDA Calculator";

http://www.smogsite.com/calculators.html

Here's an 'EHOW' link on the "HIGH NOX" causes/solutions;

http://www.ehow.com/list_7619425_cau...#ixzz1ojOKGvJ1

Here are many that I was reading regarding others, like me, who failed(first Big Mike's on "how to pass");

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=1119.0

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-test-243990/

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/archi.../t-542328.html

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=64908.0

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/f...nner-v6-65907/

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=35317.0

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1050736

http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...smog-test.html

*********************

That's just a few of the DOZENS I've been reading... And honestly? It begins to blur together and you often wind up more confused than you were! lol. I'm much grateful to Roger/4Crawler and Scope and everyone else who just spoke one on one with me and cleared some things up.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

My buddy is in parts at A Toyota Dealer in SoCal... He's going to let me BORROW a NEW Modulator for the smog test. He said he can't do the same with the EGR because it's clear when it's been 'bolted on' to something... But running the modulator for a test will NOT harm it in any way, nor will it 'SHOW' signs of damage! lol.

I wish he could give me an OEM CAT..... to borrow.... for a few years! hahahaha. Jk :/ lol.

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Before the test I will;

1. Retard the timing to 4*BTDC... it's at 8*BTDC now(The smog guy is trying to help me pass, from what I can tell over the years... And HE SAID "Do NOT retard it too much... You were close on the HC portion... If you retard it too much you're going to increase HC too high and fail that portion.. then where are you? Stick with Factory Timing, maybe 4*BTDC at the MAX on the low end" )

2. As I retard the timing I'll be opening up the Air/Fuel Adjuster Screw to get to recommended 750, maybe 800rpm. This will increase the air and with the timing retarded it should also increase the fuel just a bit making it less lean, and thus, lower internal combustion temps.

3. I will have a NEW Modulator for the test, but tonight I'm going to remove the EGR and just for EXTRA INSURANCE, clean it out as thoroughly as possible. I believe I got the Small EGR-to-Modulator pipe on the EGR pipe cleaned out well.. But it's A HUGE percentage of 'cause for failure' on smog tests, even with a WORKING Modulator.

4. This is really a question; I want to know what Roger or Scope think about 'WHAT FUEL TO RUN' and 'HOW TO PREP THE RIG FOR SMOG'. Should I run 91 octane or even 96, available to me from a buddies station? Should I add "RXP Gas Kicker" on top of that? Then, should I run it like a banshee on the Freeway and then keep the RPM's up with the heater on high right up until he tests it? (heater on high to reduce engine temp and high rpm to keep the CAT hot....???)

Any other tips would be greatly appreciated!

PS> I just wanted to add a variable I hadn't thought of;

When I rebuilt, I had a problem, Immediately, with the HG. I didn't run it long, but long enough to get some milkshake. I tore it down and flushed it properly with ATF and the lot of instructions... Put it back together with a new HG and it was problem free thereafter. My question is, "COULD THAT HAVE CAUSED ENOUGH DAMAGE TO MY CAT THAT IT MIGHT HAVE EFFECTED THIS TEST?" There was SOME steam, for a short period... But Only for that one day and while in the garage/didn't happen then drive home for 50 miles. ????

wreckedrex

This would be helpful if you had a high HC issue while running premium. Unburnt fuel would be a help for a high NO issue.

Alcohol burns cooler than gas, so running a mix could lower you combustion temps. I was *this* close to trying it the last time my little miata failed, I never did it though so...?

That header could be hurting you. A good header will get more air into the combustion chamber, which will allow more fuel wich will make a bigger bang and more power. If the stock EFI setup can't add that extra fuel you end up with a lean condition. Maybe a stretch, I don't know enough to say for sure.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, Rex! Yeah, I'm not sure... Although, Grego just passed with those numbers above and the same header. Difference is, ... He has the original CAT in there(which I'M WONDERING on how much more effective it is after reading on ''new CAT's SUCK!" lol) and I'm not sure but I think he's running the Stock Head/CAM. That CAT is at 1.75" diameter.... Even if it's MODERATELY working I would think it would help as it's 'restricting flow' and thus, 'causing more backpressure'(also causing the gases to stay in the CAT longer),...back-pressure being that which seems to be ESSENTIAL for the EGR to work.... Make sense? Still, for him to pass with those numbers... I REALLY have to have something 'OFFFFFFF' lol. Then again, more confusion, as I don't know how much 1* of timing retarding or 1/4" of exhaust restriction(or restrictor plate) or certain components within the EFI system being 'off' can contribute to high NOX.

I know if I retard the timing, in theory, the HC should go up as well... That also concerns me as my numbers were high. The smog guy(I spoke to him today) seemed to think it would not... It's when I go 'BEYOND 'spec' Degrees of BTDC(like 2-3*) is where I would see the HC turn the other direction dramatically.

Still, YET AGAIN, I'm not sure how much the Modulator being bad can effect those numbers as well.. And yet I'VE SEEN many people, including this smog tech, telling me "they failed miserably before replacing it and then passed the second it was on there"(Of course, I would probably reset the ECU and start over when I get this new modulator in... That's advisable, right guys? lol) What I DOOOOOOOO know, without a doubt? IT CAN'T HURT having a brand new OEM modulator in there! lol. And, I KNOW that the EGR can NOT do it's job if the Modulator air flow is restricted or it's just plane bad... Makes total sense to me now. Even Grego's 22RE, several years newer, still has a EGR-Modulator. Guess his stuff is working, that much is certain, lol.

I'm still contemplating just splurging and starting fresh with a new EGR/Modulator package. I could just grab one at O'Reilly(NO ONE carries the modulator but dealer... EGR they do.. Ironic, considering that the Modulator is reported 80% or so more likely to be the problem).... Parts stores average for EGR valves?>>> 149$, but I'm sure I'd be BANNED for not going OEM, ya know? hahaha. 171$ at www.toyotapartszone.com... .\LINK TO EGR'S, ETC., HERE/

I picked up a bottle of RXP Gas Kicker... But I'm not exactly sure how to use it(instructions are 'half' there). I'm sure it's just like the others("Put in a full tank and drive till empty. Refill and test immediately").. But I'll make sure on their site.

GREAT talking to you today, Grego! Really helps to be able to articulate things with someone you can hear, lol.... Of course, seeing that the only thing I'M POSITIVE on is 'HOW TICKED OFF I AM'.... 'and confused', .... it ends up being more of a 'round and round' hypothetical session... But THAT'S OK, right? I mean, that's what keeps me thinking and on my toes. REALLY appreciate you offering parts, etc. Unfortunately your year 22RE is not interchangeable on many things/sensors, etc. But I DO appreciate it

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Grego92 did not mention the year of his 22RE (engine assumed), but guessing from the screen name, a 1992, then he of course has the later model VSV-controlled EGR and the PAIR system.

My HC went up a little bit, like from 4 to 9 or something like that, when I retarded the timing from 5 to something closer to 0.