Duckie

So here is some back story. Finished the TC and got her all timed up and running perfect. I noticed a small oil leak from the area of the top timing cover bolt (the one inside of the head) and got it sealed up. I still had a small drip coming off the bottom, onto the steering stabilizer and figired it was just left from the leak. Turns out it was because I didn't fix the groove in the crank from the original seal. So today I ordered a repair sleeve to fix that.

As to my alt issues, this morning while driving the truck to work (and subsequently slinging oil all over everything under my hood), my brake and charge lights came on. Lights dimmed, ect. I researched it and know its most likely something to do with the alternator, brushes, voltage regulator, and so on. So I only drove her from work to my parents and thats where she is parked until I get the repair sleeve.

I guess my question is, could oil that has covered everything have gotten in the alternator and be causing these issues? I'm going back over later to pull it to have it tested anyways, but I would like to note that the whole bottom on the alternator was covered in oil.

Any opinions are appreciated.

BMcEL

It's much more common for the brushes to wear out. I'd open it up and check them...sounds like it's due for a cleaning anyway.

angrybob

Personally, my experience is that oil doesn't affect the alternator. I drove my rig for a year before I rebuilt the power steering pump which leaked ps fluid all over it. My guess is also that its the brushes.

87Toy22r

Oil can mess with alt!

Duckie

So my plan for now is to pick up the repair sleeve tomorrow, and on Thursday I'll go ahead and repair the crankshaft and finish removing the alt for cleaning, inspection, and testing. If it tests bad, oh well ill just buy a refurb. If its good, ill just buy the brushes. Either way ill be taking a look at it before I even take It to get tested.

BMcEL

If the brushes are bad, it will test bad. I would NOT recommend trading your OEM alternator for a remanufactured unit. This goes for starters and blower motors too...repair OEM every time.

Unless it got completely saturated with oil, it's probably just the brushes which are only a few dollars at the dealership. I replaced the brushes in mine at about 215k miles and it's still working perfectly at 255k. I wouldn't replace it with a reman if someone handed me one for free.

Edit - Toyota makes updated front and rear main seals that will ride in different spots on the crank. This is a better option than sleeving it.

Duckie

Alright guys, a really quick question. Whats the best way to remove the oil seal with out damaging it? I currently have the crank pulley and alt off, and I have my sleeve to install on the pulley. I just wanted to remove the oil seal as well to make sure its not comprimised. (BTW, the oil seal is brand new from my timing chain job, so as far as running, the engine might have about 2 hours of run time with all new timing stuff.)

Duckie

Unfortunatly, it is already a re-manned unit. Today when I pulled it I double checked and has a re-man stamp. I have yet to even crack it open but I can already say its pretty well covered in oil. I'll see how much got inside though and make a decision after I get it cleaned up and tested.

Duckie

How do these brushes look? From some of the comparative pictures they dont look too bad.

BMcEL

They don't look that bad. I personally wouldn't waste my time on a remanufactured unit. If I were you I'd try to find a used OEM alt to put some new brushes in and call it good.

Duckie

The only problem with that is that unless an OEM alt can be had today or tomorrow for less than a re-man, its not really an option. I need my truck back up within the next 24 to 48 hours. I'm really hoping that I don't need an alternator at all.

BMcEL

You could always clean the alt and all connections, slap it back together and see if it still does it.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Is the charging belt soaked full of oil and slipping? I tend to think your alt is good.

Duckie

The alt just tested bad at O'reily. A reman Is $80. I did consider the belts being coated, but now that it tested bad after I cleaned It up Im not sure.

BMcEL

Could still be bad connections...I've seen good alts test bad at auto parts stores.

Duckie

Well tomorrow I'm going to slap this one back on and see how I goes for a few short drives. If its still bugging ill just drop on a new reman.

angrybob

FYI - I'm guessing you are talking about the oil seal that is pressed into the timing cover?

I can't remember for sure if that seal bottoms on the timing cover or if its a through hole, but I think it bottoms and needs to be pulled. If you can tap it through the back side of the cover with a socket or PVC pipe/fitting that is only slightly smaller, than maybe. If it has to be pulled, you probably can't...and more important shouldn't.

Seal is cheap, like $5 at O'Reilly.

Heh - if you're coming to Phoenix I have an extra one you can have

Duckie

Thanks for the advice. I wound up just leaving it though. When I first pulled the crank pulley, I thought I saw a mar in the bottom of the seal. Turns out my eyes were blinded by the sun just perfectly coming through a gap by the battery while I was looking up. I wiped it down and it was sitting perfect and new looking still. Looking back, if I really wanted it out, I probably would have just pulled the oil pump.

Duckie

A quick question, what brand was the oem alternator? Was it Denso? Because that's the reman I currently have, and those remans look to run closer to $100 online.

bluAM2

Denso it is