rod1210

ok so first of all i am very sorry i know this thread does not belong here but it does not let me post in the correct area. So admin if you could change that that would be great!

so here is the problem that i have been fighting with for about 2 month now....

i have a 1986 pickup 2wd 22rte. i get a code 2 which is air flow meter circuit.

so what happens is the truck runs full rich 10 on my Wideband, and the more i try to go WOT the faster it leans out. so its basically un-drivable. when i accelerate to about 2k rpm i my motor litterly sounds like a rotary. i have vacuum leaks in my intercooler or piping i read about 19 vacuum on my boost gauge.

i have the 7mge- swapped am with the swapped circuit bored. one day the truck started with that code and did not run correctly. luckily i found another stock afm swapped it and it started working again.

so i swapped the circuit bored with the old one.(7mge housing for better air flow) i run about 15 pounds of boost on my truck and with i swapped afm it started leaning out on my top end. So i started adjusting fuel. So one day i was at the gas station making the final tweak to adjusting am fuel mixture. (probably doesn't matter but all info helps) i noticed my spark plug wire wasn't all the way plunged in but still making good connection plunged it in. and as soon as i touched the idler mixture screw i got the code again.

so it worked a total of about 3 days.

So i just bought another stock afm (untouched ) and plunged it in and it didn't solve the problem.

So now I'm stuck i have tried about everything checking continuity and following all the wiring diagrams. I'm open to all suggestions. I'm just trying to drive my truck again!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

You are in the correct section. When I seen intercooler pretty much left me out as I don't know much about them. Maybe someone else will be able to help you.

rod1210

Thanks for the reply. theoretically the intercooler just cools the air in a closed system from the turbo outlet to the intake. but the problem that i have is with the afm.

i noticed when i looked up the differences between the edu i got this diagram. maybe someone could chim in? i also have all of the truck wiring diagrams if some one would like to look at that as well if it helps.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Quite often a meter probe will push through corrosion but when things are plugged together they don`t work like they should.

Cleaning all the connections might help !! The word is might .

Remember it can be a problem in the whole AFM circuit .



Then having extra air being sucked in before the throttle body just adds even more air to the engine.

Get those leaks fixed that could be most of your problem.

rod1210

Thanks for the reply wyomoming9 ill try to clean up the connections on the afm. I doubt i have any leaks as i don't hear anything and my vacuum gauge reads normal at about 19-20 inHg which is normal with no leaks at all. Im thinking it has something to do with the whole circuit. i can move the afm flap and it will not read the signal for it. but as soon as i open it it will turn on the fuel pump

rod1210

UPDATE***

ok so i check all continuity to all wires and everything checks out EXCEPT the black wire. so if anyone can tell me where the black wire connects to other sensors and other solids that would be great so i don't have to rip everything apart.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have not worked on a turbo truck and knowing Toyota, they always change something and why I figure it will be quite a bit different then what I have worked on.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

The black wire is the 12 + VDC comes from the EFI fuse it goes to pin 8 on the ecu

It splits and also goes through the EFI relay to the Circuit opening relay

it is also the B+ at the check connector.

Then of course it is only energized with the ignition on.

dark_fairytales

Am I understanding this correctly. you have a turbo 22re that has metered boost leaks, and you are trying to run the stock fueling system at 15psi of boost. If this is the case, you have two issues. First, the boost pressure is beyond the ability of the stock fueling system, which is why your engine is leaning out. Second, you have changed the idle mix on the afm to solve the lean boost that the fueling system will never keep up with, and when idling there is no boost, so your rich mix is due to trying to richen up the mix. Plus your boost leaks are vacuum leaks during idle.

rod1210

thanks for the reply guys. just to clear things up. i do NOT have any boost leaks / vacuum. Also i do not have a 22re-t but a 22rte so the ecu knows when to add fuel and when to draw back fuel at idle. but that is not the problem. (but yes 15 pounds on a 22rte moored over 1mm with a metal head gaskets and arp studs, and i did add a intercooler because i don't want my motor to blow up with all the hot air)

but anyways The problem I'm having is i get a check engine for afm circuit which is code 2. this IS the problem i need to solve. i was looking for wiring info for the black wire but i which is i believe +b1 wire runs to a vs. fuel pressure solenoid and also ties into the refi main relay and circuit opening relay and then finally to the afm. this is the only wire that doesn't have continuity. just wondering how its run and where exactly in the car it splits off

rod1210

ok so i found the problem that the b+1 wire was not connected i spliced into the edu connection and then the afm and wired it directly and fired right up! but i am one of those people that do like to find the problem inside the harness. So if you guys could tell me where all the splices are for the b+1 or any possible breakage points that would be great!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I really doubt your going to find anyone who has taken the harness completely apart .There are splices in the harness .

Do you really want to pull the entire dash harness and engine harness apart .

You should check it at every location

Starting at the EFI fuse . You have the schematics just check .

rod1210

thabks for all the replays guys. Problem solved!!!!

So here's the fix

So if you check continuity between the 02 check Connection I believe and b+1 if you get nothing then if you go the the harness under the wheel well closest to the front of the pickup open it up. There is a spice where those 3 wires come together. That's where mine came apart

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Was there physical damage to the harness there ??

What caused it to come apart ??

Corrosion from winter chemicals ??

rod1210

thrre was corossion there at that spit I but it was tucked and wrapped by electrical tape. so I guess just from being old and over time the crimp corroded away and feel apart