92DLX

***I asked this question in the General Electrical section but that section doesn't get much traffic so I'm asking here***


Hey guys,

Simple question, but thought I'd ask rather than make a stupid mistake.

I'm nearly finished wiring up a 12 Volt Guy dual battery kit. He has one wire from the switch that is intended to be tied into an ignition wire via a vampire clip/wire tap. The instruction here is to tap into a "fused ignition 12 volt".

Will someone help me identify which wire I should tap for this?

I have a wiring diagram but am a total wiring dummy when it comes to OEM systems. I am fine at adding accessories running off of an aftermarket panel and kept entirely separate from the stock wiring.

I have a 92 22re.

Thanks.

92DLX

Hmm... 12v guy suggests something at the fuse block that is on at start. I'd prefer something that doesn't immobilize the vehicle if the wire tap ends up failing over time. What is at the fuse block that is on at start and the least dangerous to tap?

92DLX

Bumping in hopes that someone else who has successfully wired the 12v guy dual battery switch sees this thread.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

4Runner or Truck??

Just where are you planning on doing this Engine Compartment or Cab?? Does he not suggest a location??

What does this wire do??

I sure would not be splicing a wire that way I have seen to many failures .

92DLX

92 22re truck. The wire will reach anywhere in the cab under the dash and can extend into the engine compartment too, so either work.

He only says: " 12 volt ignition switched" and "I would find one at fuse block on with ignition."

I'll post the wiring diagram in a minute.

92DLX

The wire in question is yellow on the diagram. It is one of four wires connected to the switch. The other three are: switch ground, + wire from second battery (powers switch), wire to relay/isolator.

As I mentioned before, I am okay at adding accessories to a separate accessory panel but I have no competence at wiring into the existing OEM stystem.

92DLX

http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/pr...iews/12voltguy

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...-volt-guy.html

Those are two write ups of installs. In the first it sounds like the corresponding wire is black: "The black wire goes to ignition 12v and you are done wiring."

In the second it is red: "The red wire goes to a fused ignition hot wire. Make sure the hot lead you tap into is also hot in the start position."

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Find the gray wire (4Runner) Truck should be the same going to the radio it will work for what you need.

It should be easy to find on the Harness going to the radio.

Comes from the 7.5 amp radio fuse .Switched power

If you screw something up it is only the radio.

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

x2 on what Wyoming said. I don't know what the wire is being used for or what kind of amperage you need, but the radio or cigarette lighter are good choices for what you need and if something happens your truck will still run.

92DLX

Thanks guys. I ended up tapping what I take to be the supply for the cigarette lighter since it was easier to get to than the stereo wiring. Everything seems to work well! Nice to have that part done.

Now I have a new problem. Since hooking up the whole system, there is static on all radio stations. The problem only happens when playing the radio, not CD's or iPod. It happens only when the engine is running, not when the engine is off and the accessories are on. Plugging or unplugging the tap into the cig wire doesn't change the problem.

I assume it is due to one of my new grounds. One of the grounds comes from the switch and to the ground bus on an aftermarket accessory panel which is grounded to the starting battery's ground terminal. The second new ground runs from the second battery in the bed of the truck down to the frame. This is just a 4 gauge cable with a copper ends screwed to the frame with a self-tapping metal screw.

What do you electrically inclined guys think?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Old or cheap spark plug wires.

Then you might have one or more loose connections arcing .

Just curious why are you using a frame Ground???

I use mine so I have a good ground at the rear of the truck .

Could you not find a better way then a self tapping screw .

no bolts close by??

92DLX

The interference on the radio started immediately after this install so I suspect that it is related rather than a pre-existing condition. Although coincidences do happen.

I put the second battery in the bed of the truck and didn't want to run a large ground all the way back up to the first battery or to any of the forward ground locations. I grounded onto the frame at the passenger side right near the gap between the cab and bed. There are some bolts I could use around there if that is going to be a lot better. I'd probably need to get a different terminal since this one has a small hole that worked with the self-tapper.

The interference is intermittent and went away entirely for about 5 minutes this afternoon. Last night it was a lot worse.

Thoughts?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Just a thought it only happens with the engine running correct?

Possible intermittent outside interference ??

It would only be the radio reception as it is the only one transmitted through the air .

Really hard to know with out hearing .

A popping static noise or more of a whine ??

We all tend to describe sounds different

Does it change at all with changes in rpm.

Pretty much comes down to a ignition noise, alternator, loose connections arcing or your new battery isolator making noise.

Anything in the instructions about it causing electrical interference ??

92DLX

Weirdly enough the noise went away today. Might have been some outside interference instead of something from the truck.

I'll see if it is related to moisture or anything else that changes and report back.