dirtnerd

anyone done this? I have a 88 4runner (3.0L auto) and a donor 96 T100 (3.4L 5-speed).

I understand that the late model R150F has the clutch slave cylinder on the dirver's side and the bellhousing is 1" longer than the early model. But how does it compare in length to the A340H? (my 4runner is stored off-site right now, so I can get a measurement on it at this time)

If I use the T100 tranny, will I need to mod the crossmember and resize the drive shafts? Will there be clearance issues with the exhaust and the clutch slave? will the t-case shifter be pushed back into the center console? Any info would be helpful. Thanks!

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160/ is your new best friend.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

I have not heard of guys using the 3.4 5spd yet. The other option that i know works is to find a 3.0 manual trans 4runner and take all the 5spd related parts including drivelines and crossmember. It will be all bolt on at that point

dirtnerd

Thanks. This is what I figured I had to do, but I'm having trouble finding an early model 5-speed with under 200k mi. I may just suck it up and get a high mileage tranny and rebuild it.

I would like to use the T100 tranny if I can since it has such low mileage. I dont mind making a custom crossmember, but I'd like to avoid custom driveshafts since that will add about $500 to the build. My biggest concern right now is having the clutch and exhaust on the same side. I dont want to have my clutch fail when I'm driving down the street because the heat from the exhaust melted the seals.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Will the 3.0 Bell housing bolt to the T100 Transmission.

Or could it be made to work??

That would move your clutch to the other side.

dirtnerd

No, I don't think so. The bellhousing is longer because the input shaft is longer. So if I swapped bellhousings, I would need to have a 1" spacer machined to compensate for that difference. That starts to get way more complicated than it needs to be. As far as I can tell, I also can't swap input shafts because the gear angles are different.

dirtnerd

I went by storage place after work and got some measurements.

88 4 runner A340H tranny:
39-3/4" from bellhousing to rear flange mounting surface
27-5/8" from bellhousing to front output (very rough estimate - CV in the way)

front d-shaft is ~22-1/2" flange to flange at ride height. center of weld to center of weld on the tube is 3-7/8".

rear d-shaft is 30-3/4" weld to weld on tube; 46-5/8" flange to flange at ride height.

I estimated 34" from bellhousing to front of center console.


T-100 R150F:
38-7/8" from bellhousing to rear output
28-1/2" bellhousing to front output
front d-shaft is 4-3/4" weld to weld on tube
shifters are 21-3/4 - 30" from bellhousing.

So, it looks like I can use T-100 tranny w T-100 front d shaft and only have to get a custom rear shaft. BUT I took a look at where the exhaust comes thru and it's real tight. No way clutch slave and exhaust will fit in the same space. Guess I need to get an older R150F.

Anyone got the bellhousing to front and rear flange measurements for the 3.0L R150F?

darkprairie24

Hey i am wanting to do the same swap. What did you figure out? Can the 5speed from the t100 work in the 1st gen behind the 5vze. I figured: cross member mod, exhaust mod, adding clutch slave (etc) and the ecu wiring. Otherwise should be fairly straight forward????

dirtnerd

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...emonch-223093/

I finished this project almost a year ago. I've put about 15k mi on the truck w no issues. Cruise control works, AC works, everything works like it should, no check engine lights. Use that link above for the wiring. It was spot on. For AC, I use the amp from the t100 and spiced in the pressure switch and on off button from the 88 4runner to it. I also removed the wiring that went to the neutral safety switch and wired in the starter relay w the factory clutch bypass button and clutch petal safety switch from the T100. Do yourself a favor and rewire your ignition switch to only the coil of the starter relay, and supply power from the battery. The factory wiring diagram shows power routing through the ignition switch to both the coil and contact of the relay. The old worn out ignition switch contacts can't handle the load. I had a clicky starter until I changed that. Also, I ended up getting a tranny from a '91 pickup and doing rebuild kit. No need to change your cross member. It bolts right up. The rear output is 2" shorter. So I bought a 1" driveshaft spacer from lowrange. I still have 1" less spline engagement, but it's fine.

dirtnerd

forgot to mention, there is no way the T100 tranny will work. The Y-pipe flange would be right in the way of the clutch slave cylinder. You'd have to keep the exhaust on the passenger side, but then the t case drop and gas tank are in the way. easier to find a junkyard tranny from a 3.0

darkprairie24

Thanks Dirtnerd.... i was hoping the t100 151 would work. Oh well. I will start digging for a junk yard older one. I guess could go with a t100 with an auto for a donor but I really wanted the 5spd.