DH6twinotter

Awesome! This is EXACTLY what I made also. Works amazingly well, but still takes some muscle. 2nd time I had to take off my crank bolt, had it out in 5 minutes with this tool. It makes it easy to torque the bolt back down too.

pyromjm

Yeah DH6 I got the idea from you when you said you made a tool out of metal to bolt to the pulley holes. Thank you for your inspiration

pyromjm

oh yeah i was going to post what happened to my socket extender


SNAP :'(
haha should have known...

Also wanted to ask, is something wrong with my clutch, since it was slipping ( i think ) when the truck was in gear (5th and 3rd) and i tried to remove the crank bolt? It was resisting, but it WAS slipping..

DH6twinotter

I think I broke 2 sockets and a ratchet on mine.

Don't know about your clutch. I have no experiance working on manuals, so I dunno. Maybe somebody else will chime in. Sorry.

snelson

Hey all,
Thought I'd chime in here since no one's mentioned it, but regarding removing the crankshaft bolt - I went ahead and bought the factory service tool at a small auto parts store for $35, the one for holding the cams steady when removing the cam bolts.
This Factory service tool also works to hold the crank too when removing the 181 ft/lb torqued bolt!

Maybe I'm stating something that everyone knows already, but I haven't seen it mentioned....
This thread has a picture of the tool
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ebuild-122151/
Steve

Blurr

snelson, how is the quality of the SST you bought? the one you referred to is a Matco that I borrowed and is extremely solid but the cheaper ones i saw on ebay and whatnot looked flimsy.

pyromjm

Putting the new water pump on, what kind of packing seal do i use? Do i use that with the gasket? or is it one or the other?

In order to change the upper idler pulley, do you have to remove the cam sprockets? I dont want to do that

runethechamp

Use the seal packing material for the water pump.

I'm pretty sure the cam sprockets have to come off. I think you ened the top timing belt covers off to get to the idler pulley, and to get the timing belt covers off the cam sprockets need to come off. Although, maybe it works with only taking off the small center timing belt cover before you can get to the upper idler pulley. Can't remember but it should be pretty easy to see once you're in there if it works or not.

thook

If all you're doing is replacing the water pump, timing belt, idler pulley, and any other front end components do not worry about those cam sprockets. The only reason they'd ever have to come off is if you're replacing the seals (because of leakage) and/or servicing the heads. Otherwise, leave them alone. The backing plate behind the idler pulley will have to come off, and....obviously....so will the the front timing cover. That backing plate comes off seperately from the rear timing cover.....which does not need to come off unless you're servicing the top end.

As far as the water pump, the gasket is all you should need. Unless, you want to apply a little packing material to help keep the gasket in place upon installation. Even then, it's not really necessary.

pyromjm

Is packing materal the same as liquid gasket?

I removed the center part from the rear timing belt cover, the on in front of the upper idler pulley, but where the idler pulley is bolted down is impossible to get to... It seems like the only way is to take off a BUNCH of other stuff off the top near the manifold.

pyromjm

what do i buy at schucks for packing seal? is that whats its called on the package?

4biker

I did the exact same thing on my third gen crank bolt - you need the beefier 1/2" all the way or they'll shear off. For my pulley tool, I put two 3/8" drill bits through my 2x6 and into the pulley (the 2x4 split into tiny pieces) and drilled a 1/2" hole for the socket extender, then pounded the extender through. I had clearance issues with the radiator, but that is in a different engine bay. When that sucker popped, I seriously thought I had ruined something expensive. Turns out, it was all smooth sailing from there.
Good luck!

snelson

Hey Blurr,
It's super tough - you could club a whale with this thing - it's exactly the same as the one linked above. Here's the link to the canadian tire store where I bought mine...

thook

Did your new pump not come with a gasket? Well, regardless, the packing material is FIPG (form in place gasket). So, yeah, liquid gasket material. The FIPG is what Toyota offers.....apparently the bomb. Use it if you can get it.

You can get back there for the idler pulley if you pull the plenum and squeeze back there with a deep socket and wobbley extension. To pull the plenum, you don't have to remove all the vacuum lines on the passenger side....in this case, anyway.

Oh, and as I recall, the main obstacle is the fuel line. If you don't have the wobbly the steel line will tolerate a little flexing, but not much. So, you may have to just pull it off from the fuel rails.

pyromjm

It came with a gasket, but someone said its best to use both. I went to the dealer and got some FIPG.

pyromjm

Got everything back together and took it for a road test.
After it was warm, the idle was rEAlly low... died on me one time even while not moving.. Did i forget to plug something in somewhere?

pyromjm

Did some searching, TNRAbbit says it might be because of a 'thumpty thump' amp putting strain on the alternator, ill try turning that off.. But i have never had this problem before, even with the amp. Ill also try adjusting the warm idle screw.

arielb1

sorry...

thook

Hmmm.....check for your water temp sensor connection....or even the sensor itself. It may not be it, but if you pulled the plenum, it can get knocked around.

If you can't figure it out soon enough, try and post a pic or two of the top end paying attention to the vacuum lines and electrical connections.

pyromjm

where is that connection exactly?