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22RE Thermostat Replacement

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Old 01-13-2011, 06:00 AM
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22RE Thermostat Replacement

After doing a search using the key word "Thermostat" and pulling up nearly every thread ever posted I never did find the simple answer I was looking for. What T-stat (temp range, etc.) do you recommend for a '93 22RE (manual, 4wd pickup)? Also once I go to replace it is there a gasket I will need? Also this is a Texas truck if that makes any difference.

FWIW my truck the past 2 days has started (according to the temp gauge which seems to work perfect) to heat up almost to the Red part of the gauge about 4 miles from my house (exact same spot in the road both times, outside temp in the '30's). Luckily both times I noticed it so I pulled over and let it idle and after about a minute or so the temp goes down back to the normal orperating temp and I go on about my way with no problems. Just watching my gauge it would appear the T-Stat is sticking shut until the temps get hotter than normal then it decides to open up and work fine. Just want to repalce it before one day it decides not to open up.
Old 01-13-2011, 06:04 AM
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The one that is listed in the FSM. If I remember right 190°F The gasket will come with the t-stat. Should be either a paper gasket or sometimes is just a rubber o-ring. What ever you do DO NOT get a fail-safe thermostat.

Your probably right about the t-stat sticking but it almost sounds like a temp overshoot issue as well.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tml#Thermostat

Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 01-13-2011 at 06:22 AM.
Old 01-13-2011, 06:25 AM
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i have the dual stage on that 4crawler mentions....about $27....but good money spent for some peace of mind.

i DID NOT have a gasket with mine but did get one from the parts store......it's just a rubber ring similar in size to..........well, never mind.....but it fits on the outer edge of the thermostat. after that it's just gray RTV (i think its PERMATEX brand "for use with water pumps" that is gray-ish) and a 1/8'' bead of it on the mating surface.

BEWARE......soak those 2 bolts with some kind of penetrant...as my 1st experience wrenching on my truck went well for about 20 seconds until i broke my 1st bolt and had to have the neighbor heli-coil it.

and DITTO....sounds like a T-stat issue to me too.
Old 01-13-2011, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 92 TOY
i have the dual stage on that 4crawler mentions....about $27....but good money spent for some peace of mind.

i DID NOT have a gasket with mine but did get one from the parts store......it's just a rubber ring similar in size to..........well, never mind.....but it fits on the outer edge of the thermostat. after that it's just gray RTV (i think its PERMATEX brand "for use with water pumps" that is gray-ish) and a 1/8'' bead of it on the mating surface.

BEWARE......soak those 2 bolts with some kind of penetrant...as my 1st experience wrenching on my truck went well for about 20 seconds until i broke my 1st bolt and had to have the neighbor heli-coil it.

and DITTO....sounds like a T-stat issue to me too.

Exactly this, i broke a bolt on mine too, sigh...
Old 01-13-2011, 06:45 AM
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Am I the only one who hasn't broken one of those t-stat housing bolts?
Old 01-13-2011, 07:41 AM
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Replaced mine in about 15 min. No problem w/ the bolts. Napa brand 195 degree stat. Came w/ gasket.
Old 01-13-2011, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by cracker_1
Replaced mine in about 15 min. No problem w/ the bolts. Napa brand 195 degree stat. Came w/ gasket.

you texas boys don't have the corrosion issues us northeast boys have
Old 01-13-2011, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
Am I the only one who hasn't broken one of those t-stat housing bolts?
Jinx

:wabbit2:
Old 01-13-2011, 08:29 AM
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To the OP. I was having the same problem as you, but it only happened when I was running the heater. It could be that your thermostat is OK, and replacing is a waste of time.

I drilled a 1/16th inch hole in the top edge of the thermostat as suggested here:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tml#Thermostat

Worked for me. Now my truck warms up normally whether I'm using the heater or not.

I would try drilling a hole and see if that fixes the problem. Since you're going to be replacing it anyway, what have you got to lose? Also, be sure you're using the 190 degree model.

Last edited by peckinpah; 01-13-2011 at 08:30 AM.
Old 01-13-2011, 08:34 AM
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Use PB Blaster penetrant on the bolts. IMO the Best penetrant on the market. (it actually does what it is supposed to)
Old 01-13-2011, 08:34 AM
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Thanks guys. I will call NAPA and make sure they have one and do it this weekend. It's been a while since I have replaced one but it is more of the easier things to do (unless of course I twist off a bolt). I went ahead and shot some PB Blaster on the bolts.

FWIW I don't think it was the heater because it wasn't on either time and the temp went back down on it's own. Good to know for future reference.
Old 01-13-2011, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
Jinx

:wabbit2:
hahah quiet you.

I don't see how PB blaster is gonna help those bolts unless you work the bolt in and out, the threads of those bolts are inside the intake manifold. But when putting them back in it's a good idea to put some anti-seize on those threads. I will not have that problem ever again on most of my exterior engine bolts since most of mine are Stainless steel now.

Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 01-13-2011 at 10:54 AM.
Old 01-13-2011, 12:09 PM
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Red face

Who ever told you stainless and aluminum won`t corrode .

When you break those M8 bolts in the thermostat you will break them both

The M8 helicoil kit or your favorite brand should come with the Thermostat
Old 01-13-2011, 12:13 PM
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it will just should not be enough to be a problem. I hope lol.

I don't know how old my bed is, but the aluminum and stainless bolts seem to be holding up really well together. Not the same thing but......

Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 01-13-2011 at 12:14 PM.
Old 01-13-2011, 04:00 PM
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FWIW I never broke my t-stat housing bolts either, 180,000 miles in a place where corrosion is definitely present. The 2 stage Toyota t-stat is 88 *C, whereas the Moto-rad one that was in there was 82* C.
Old 01-13-2011, 05:55 PM
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My tstat bolts are fine.

I had issues this winter with it over heating because it wasnt opening when the temps were around zero.

The solution was to drill a small hole in the tstat. Works like a charm. My thread about it: Click Here, Ill take you there

Last edited by rattlewagon; 01-13-2011 at 06:01 PM.
Old 01-14-2011, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 92 TOY
you texas boys don't have the corrosion issues us northeast boys have
READ MY INFO...I am in COLORADO, NOT TEXAS! Thanks for the put down.....
Old 01-14-2011, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by cracker_1
READ MY INFO...I am in COLORADO, NOT TEXAS! Thanks for the put down.....
Haha 92 Toy, I think you just got
Old 01-14-2011, 07:57 AM
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same difference...no rust..
Old 12-25-2019, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Brazos
After doing a search using the key word "Thermostat" and pulling up nearly every thread ever posted I never did find the simple answer I was looking for. What T-stat (temp range, etc.) do you recommend for a '93 22RE (manual, 4wd pickup)? Also once I go to replace it is there a gasket I will need? Also this is a Texas truck if that makes any difference.

FWIW my truck the past 2 days has started (according to the temp gauge which seems to work perfect) to heat up almost to the Red part of the gauge about 4 miles from my house (exact same spot in the road both times, outside temp in the '30's). Luckily both times I noticed it so I pulled over and let it idle and after about a minute or so the temp goes down back to the normal orperating temp and I go on about my way with no problems. Just watching my gauge it would appear the T-Stat is sticking shut until the temps get hotter than normal then it decides to open up and work fine. Just want to repalce it before one day it decides not to open up.
so I have leak up by my thermostat but out of the front of the moter looks like it's posing out but it mainly does it when I park what's the steps of fixing


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