jetpilot

I am removing the 22RE from my '87 pickup and replacing it with an identical motor from my parts truck. If anyone has removed/installed a 22re, any wisdom or tips you'd like to share to help make the job go a litlle easier would be greatly appreciated.

rdlsz24

Bump I'm mostly likely going to be doing the same thing in the next couple of weeks. The only part I'm worried about is switching the flywheel and clutch to the donor engine since it was an auto and mine is stick.

Rob

Mr Priceless

is it still running? any probs?

Georgiadave

Here is what I did or considered for my engine replacement, it is a 1994 4X4:

New clutch
Remote oil filter kit (no more mess under the filter)
Spark plugs, ignition wires, cap, rotor
Toyota exhaust gaskets instead of the ones in the kit
New exhaust studs and nuts – the old ones will be annealed pretty soft
Replace alternator brushes
Replace Thermostat
Drain and Replace Power Steering Fluid
New belts
Vacuum hoses
Fuel filter (much easier with engine out of the truck)
Engine mounts (if worn)
Cooling and heater system hoses
Hoses under the intake manifold (They are attached to the manifold via the rear of the engine)
Radiator clean up if needed


For the actual removal and reinstallation, there are a number of threads on this subject; they should give you some idea of the problems others have solved.

Study the FSM or a Haynes manual on how to remove the engine. Here are some things not in the manual that I learned that might be useful:

I would just remove the engine, leave the transmission in the truck. Brace the transmission.

Do not remove any parts that can stay on the engine or just be disconnected. For instance, leave the power steering and A/C hoses connected, just disconnect the units from the engine, and tie them aside. Leave the fuel injection system, exhaust manifold, and alternator on the engine. Reinstall these items before you put the engine back in the truck. However, I would remove the battery; you can use the additional access, and avoid inadvertently shorting the terminals while you work.

The wire harness is difficult to remove from the fuel injection manifold, as it is under a wealth of other stuff. Also, it is woven through the fuel injection manifold. Instead, disconnect the wire harness from the ECU, MAF sensor, starter, transmission, etc, and remove it with the engine.

It is very important to LABEL EVERYTHING like hoses, vacuum tubes, electrical connections. This site is full of people whining and asking about how to reconnect these things after an engine change. Also, when you can, run fasteners back into their place after you have removed a component. You will then know where they belong, because they will be where they belong. Otherwise, bag and label.

After you get the engine out, the fuel injection manifold has an Allen bolt buried in the front that is hard to access and is in pretty tight. I had to turn it off by chiseling it, what a PITA. Replace it with a regular hex headed bolt. The bolt size is 100MM 8 X 1.25.

The starter is removed through the wheel well.

I would change the coolant and vacuum hoses while the engine is on the stand, because some of them are hard to even see with the engine in the truck.

While the engine is out, I would replace the clutch. Marlin seems to be the clutch of choice.

If you can, use two engine stands, one with the old engine on it, the other with the new engine, move parts from the old engine directly to the new one. This will help keep things organized.

If you can do simple soldering, slip a new set of brushes in the alternator. The alternator is hard to access with the engine in the truck, and you will have the unit off anyway.

When you reinstall the engine, level it side to side with ratchet straps or something, as it is unbalanced and will not hang level. The engine needs to be level to go back in.

There will be some unanticipated work to be done, like broken bolts, components that are bad and shoddy work from prior maintenance. These will add time and money to the job.

This job does not require any great knowledge, it is just time consuming. It took me about 15 hours spread over two weeks to accomplish it. I needed help getting the engine out and back in, other than that, I did it alone. You will need a cherry picker and at least one engine stand, and a sheltered place to work. I rolled my truck out of the garage to remove and replace the engine, other than that, it was in the garage. Some long extensions to remove the top engine to transmission bolts and the exhaust pipe to manifold nuts will be very useful.