27@Ryan@27

so i have a 1990 with a 22re and it misses while divin at steady rpm. it idles fine tho. also it randomly over heats. doesn't matter if its in town or in the hills. sometimes its fine others its not. miles are unknown, speedo didn't work when we bought it and po couldn't tell us anything. what might the problems be?

bryan89

wow,
sounds like you have a couple different problems there that could be for a hundred different reasons.

for overheating: is there fluid in it? is it the right level/mixture?. check that the fan belt is tight. then check that the fan clutch bearing is still good (i.e. the fan doesnt wobble around). then after that i would start with a radiator flush and a thermostat. does it leak any radiator fluid out of the weap hole? could be a water pump. thats just the top of the list.


Other issue could be a misfire or timing related. jump out the ecu terminals and check timing. if that doesnt work, since you know nothing about it from the previous owner, start with plugs, wires, rotor, and a cap. they are typically overlooked wear items and not serviced until there is a problem.

without any information its all just a stab in the dark. if you really cant get any information what so ever from the PO. start turning over logs and see whats under there



btw...welcome to yotatech!

27@Ryan@27

water pump was replaced over the summer. its full of fluid. belts are tight. and no leaks. fan doesn't woble. so i guess i'll flush it and a new thermostat.

i replaced most of the that right after i got it. so about 2 years ago. wires and plugs were done over the summer. i don't really know electrical stuff at all. so how do you jump the ecu?

A7QG59F2

Find the dlc connector near the fuse box under the hood (the cover for it is on a plastic hinge unless it is broken) and, with the key off, jump the terminals labels Te1 and E1. Then turn the key to the ign position and count the flashes of the check engine light.
ex. 4 quick flashes..... pause..... 1 flash..... long pause..... 1 flash..... pause..... 4 quick flashes..... long pause..... etc.
would indicate a code 41 and code 14.

BajaRunner

Run a compression test. Then make sure you are getting a spark at each plug. Have you replaced the cap/rotor/plugs/wires recently?

bryan89

he said he did plugs and wires. dont know about cap and rotor.

i was talking about shorting the terminals for checking timing. A7qg was talking about checking the computer for codes. which is something else that you could do.

as far as shorting the terminals for timing: you need to short terminals T and E1 of the check connector before checking timing. this forces the computer to put the engine in "idle mode". otherwise your timing will appear way off. for the 22re timing should be 5* BTDC (below top dead center) at idle.

then unshort the ignition check connector and recheck timing. should be 10-14* at idle at this point. taken straight out of Toyota FSm.


To check for engine codes, you need to get the engine to normal operation temperature. then turn everything off, ignition, accessories everything. then put the truck in neutral. turn on the ignition switch, but do not start the truck. go to the passenger fender well and short terminals T and E1 again. then go check the check engine light. if everything is okay (No codes) then it will blink continuously every .26 seconds for the 22re. (Really close to 4 times per second).

if not, you have codes.

27@Ryan@27

i'll have to get ahold of a timing light but i'll check for codes tomorrow. cap and rotor were done a couple years ago. how often should they be done?

BajaRunner

I always did the cap and rotor on a yearly basis with spark plugs and wires with my old 22re. Of course you could probably get away with doing that only every 5 years.

It depends on your climate, and how good the parts are themselves. They only require you to remove 2 screws on the distributor cap, and you can check for wear, corrosion or cracks.

Definetly check the timing, and make sure that the timing chain did not "skip a tooth". When you remove the valve cover, and set the engine to TDC, (Timing mark @ 0 on crank pulley), the cam shaft gear's dimple should be at 11:30 or 12 o clock.

BajaRunner

Also you should really run a compression test. Random overheating is a little suspect of a blown head gasket.

For $13 you can buy a new thermostat and make sure its not that. Also get a new radiator cap. Just to rule that out.

27@Ryan@27

radiator cap is new. i know the compresion isn't the best. burns a quart of oil in about 2 tanks. but i'll try to get ahold of i timing light and compression tester

i just tested for codes and got none.

the only other thing i thought of is that id does have an exhaust leak. manifold is cracked. could bad o2 reading cause it to cut out?

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Probably not, but you should fix that anyway

27@Ryan@27

yeah i know. thats one of the next projects when i get the money to do it

peckinpah

My high speed miss turned out to be a bad Throttle Position Sensor. It was sending out erratic readings, causing the engine to stumble, but only when warmed up and usually while passing other cars at high speeds or on hills.

I would get my hands on an ohm tester and some spacers and see if yours is working properly, as shown here:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

VABYRD

My 89 had the same problem. Felt like it was missing something fierce. I replaced the o2 sensor and it was like I had a new motor.....