22RE Head Gasket and Timing Chain Replacement PICS
05-20-2009, 08:08 PM
#201
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you mentioned the one was unplugged, so I just rambled on about the 2 sencor plugin's there in the same area
lolyeah, if you have no AC, just wrap a wire-tie around it if you want and just tuck it out of the way
05-20-2009, 08:30 PM
#202
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By looking at the pics you just added, the little connector is for a AC hookup.
The one you spliced could be for AC stuff as well. My truck dosen't have that box on the head cover to plug into. (The one similar to the redish orange and blue plug on the head cover.)
The one you spliced could be for AC stuff as well. My truck dosen't have that box on the head cover to plug into. (The one similar to the redish orange and blue plug on the head cover.)
05-20-2009, 08:35 PM
#203
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Sweet! I'll just tuck it away and not worry about it! Thanks for all your help.
06-24-2009, 07:17 PM
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Coming back from a camping trip. 30 mins away from home the engine cuts off. Got it to start right up on the freeway. A minute later a pop sound then steam coming form the engine. 3 hours and $80 buck at autozone later, notice coolant in leaking from the exhaust pipe. Gave up and paid $100 for the tow home. Will be tearing down the engine pretty soon. We'll reread before starting on the job. Great job on the tread everyone.
08-10-2010, 07:25 AM
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Most of the information I used to change my timing chain was gained from this website... thank you to all the contributors. I wanted to add a note on the finding I had in the hopes of assisting anyone else who may look to this website for guidance.
My truck:
1994 Toyota Pickup, DLX, 2x4
177,000 miles
22re, EFI, single row timing chain.
The problem:
At around 150,000 miles my truck was loosing power; would not climb hill like it used to. At 160,000 miles I noticed at highway cruising, the engine would ‘buck’ - almost as if the ignition was shut off for a millisecond. I took it to my local Toyota dealer and they said with that many miles I probably had a plugged fuel filter or the injectors needing flushing and cleaning. I had already replaced the fuel filter, cap, rotor, plugs and wire-set. I had the injectors and fuel system cleaned - $350 - with no improvement.
At 175,000 miles the truck not only had the ‘bucking’ at highway speeds, but began to exhibit the same behaviour around town. It even got to the point when starting out from a stop I had no idea whether the truck would accelerate normally or feeling like it was running on half the cylinders.
Trouble-shooting the problem:
I suspected the Mass Air Vane (which was a junk yard pull from when my old unit broke a spring), fuel system, or ignition system. I started with checking the timing and noticed that the timing mark was wondering about 5 degrees; not at all steady.
*note: on this model, a jumper needs to be placed between TE1 and E1 on the diagnostics block to prevent the ECU from adjusting the timing while verifying with timing light.
I decided it was time to change the timing chain set.
I used Toyota gaskets because of their recommendation on the forum by a few people and they are not that expensive. I did however not go with Toyota parts on the other items as I think the aftermarket products are acceptable and far less expensive. The timing chain set is Japan made which is Superior in my opinion as opposed to Taiwanese or Chinese made parts and probably as close to Toyota OEM as I would find for this price. In regard to aftermarket parts, I have now boycotted A*zone auto parts... the Duralast products have been replaced many times (warranty, but a hassle to have to change). I’ve now started using NAPA Auto Parts and have not had a problem for years. This is just my observation, your mileage may vary.
Parts:
- Local Toyota dealer, ~$20
-- Timing cover gasket set
-- Oil pump o-ring
-- Distributor o-ring
-- Front crank seal
- Local NAPA Auto parts
-- Valve cover gasket set (felpro), $17
-- New water pump, $34
- http://www.engnbldr.com/
-- Timing chain set w/steel chain guide, #TKS900SR, $56
Instructions followed:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml
Following these instruction, I did not remove the cylinder head or plan on removing the oil pan. the oil pan needed to be removed however (explanation follows).
To keep track of which bolt came off of the timing chain cover:
I took the picture found just below step 15 and enlarged to full page print. I then placed the print in a zip-lock freezer bag. When I took a bolt out of the timing chain cover, I poked it through the plastic bag in the proper location so that I would know where the bolt came from. A cardboard box would have worked also.
Things I learned...
Timing chain:
The old timing chain must have had some slack in it... When installing the new timing chain and gears, the crank had to be rotated slightly to allow the gear keys to align. I double checked that the lighter colored chain links matched the gear markings and the gear markings were still correctly orientated (cam gear mark at 12 o’clock and crank gear mark at 6 o’clock).
During the dis-assembly I did find that the driver’s side timing chain guide had two chunks missing, one at the top and one around the top bolt hole. Unfortunately this now added the additional task of dropping the oil pan in order to search and retrieve the missing plastic.
Gasket sealants:
I did use Black RTV sealant more to hold the gaskets in place than to seal. On my previous water pump replacement I over did it with the sealant and it just made a mess and when taking the pump off I found it seeped into many of the coolant path-ways.
When removing the timing chain cover, I noticed no sealant was used and only in a few spots did the gasket stick to the cover. I installed the timing chain cover using only a dab of Black RTV to hold the gasket in place... no leaks.
Valve cover:
When I placed the valve cover back on, I over tightened the bolts and it gave me a bit of a scare. The valve cover will interfere with the valves and it will sound like a diesel if you over tighten the valve cover. I backed the cover hold downs off until the rubber grommet on top just begins to ‘squeeze’ out around the metal cap of the grommet.
Distributor gear:
I did run into an issue when I had the engine back together... it would start, but would run as if it had no power. Adjusted the distributor all the way advanced and it ran better. Realizing that I must have put the distributor in wrong, I bumped the distributor gear one tooth and the truck started up without an issue.
Thank you for taking the time to read and I hope that some of this information will help.
My truck:
1994 Toyota Pickup, DLX, 2x4
177,000 miles
22re, EFI, single row timing chain.
The problem:
At around 150,000 miles my truck was loosing power; would not climb hill like it used to. At 160,000 miles I noticed at highway cruising, the engine would ‘buck’ - almost as if the ignition was shut off for a millisecond. I took it to my local Toyota dealer and they said with that many miles I probably had a plugged fuel filter or the injectors needing flushing and cleaning. I had already replaced the fuel filter, cap, rotor, plugs and wire-set. I had the injectors and fuel system cleaned - $350 - with no improvement.
At 175,000 miles the truck not only had the ‘bucking’ at highway speeds, but began to exhibit the same behaviour around town. It even got to the point when starting out from a stop I had no idea whether the truck would accelerate normally or feeling like it was running on half the cylinders.
Trouble-shooting the problem:
I suspected the Mass Air Vane (which was a junk yard pull from when my old unit broke a spring), fuel system, or ignition system. I started with checking the timing and noticed that the timing mark was wondering about 5 degrees; not at all steady.
*note: on this model, a jumper needs to be placed between TE1 and E1 on the diagnostics block to prevent the ECU from adjusting the timing while verifying with timing light.
I decided it was time to change the timing chain set.
I used Toyota gaskets because of their recommendation on the forum by a few people and they are not that expensive. I did however not go with Toyota parts on the other items as I think the aftermarket products are acceptable and far less expensive. The timing chain set is Japan made which is Superior in my opinion as opposed to Taiwanese or Chinese made parts and probably as close to Toyota OEM as I would find for this price. In regard to aftermarket parts, I have now boycotted A*zone auto parts... the Duralast products have been replaced many times (warranty, but a hassle to have to change). I’ve now started using NAPA Auto Parts and have not had a problem for years. This is just my observation, your mileage may vary.
Parts:
- Local Toyota dealer, ~$20
-- Timing cover gasket set
-- Oil pump o-ring
-- Distributor o-ring
-- Front crank seal
- Local NAPA Auto parts
-- Valve cover gasket set (felpro), $17
-- New water pump, $34
- http://www.engnbldr.com/
-- Timing chain set w/steel chain guide, #TKS900SR, $56
Instructions followed:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml
Following these instruction, I did not remove the cylinder head or plan on removing the oil pan. the oil pan needed to be removed however (explanation follows).
To keep track of which bolt came off of the timing chain cover:
I took the picture found just below step 15 and enlarged to full page print. I then placed the print in a zip-lock freezer bag. When I took a bolt out of the timing chain cover, I poked it through the plastic bag in the proper location so that I would know where the bolt came from. A cardboard box would have worked also.
Things I learned...
Timing chain:
The old timing chain must have had some slack in it... When installing the new timing chain and gears, the crank had to be rotated slightly to allow the gear keys to align. I double checked that the lighter colored chain links matched the gear markings and the gear markings were still correctly orientated (cam gear mark at 12 o’clock and crank gear mark at 6 o’clock).
During the dis-assembly I did find that the driver’s side timing chain guide had two chunks missing, one at the top and one around the top bolt hole. Unfortunately this now added the additional task of dropping the oil pan in order to search and retrieve the missing plastic.
Gasket sealants:
I did use Black RTV sealant more to hold the gaskets in place than to seal. On my previous water pump replacement I over did it with the sealant and it just made a mess and when taking the pump off I found it seeped into many of the coolant path-ways.
When removing the timing chain cover, I noticed no sealant was used and only in a few spots did the gasket stick to the cover. I installed the timing chain cover using only a dab of Black RTV to hold the gasket in place... no leaks.
Valve cover:
When I placed the valve cover back on, I over tightened the bolts and it gave me a bit of a scare. The valve cover will interfere with the valves and it will sound like a diesel if you over tighten the valve cover. I backed the cover hold downs off until the rubber grommet on top just begins to ‘squeeze’ out around the metal cap of the grommet.
Distributor gear:
I did run into an issue when I had the engine back together... it would start, but would run as if it had no power. Adjusted the distributor all the way advanced and it ran better. Realizing that I must have put the distributor in wrong, I bumped the distributor gear one tooth and the truck started up without an issue.
Thank you for taking the time to read and I hope that some of this information will help.
10-31-2010, 08:46 PM
#212
Registered User
I spent last weekend redoing the timing cover gaskets and such. Just bought my 86 4runner and it leaked like a sun of a gun and there was silicone oozing out the bottom corner of the timing cover so I figured that was the main problem. Left the head and pan on. Went fairly smoothly for my first time. Then I discovered a big problem! Whoever did the timing before I bought it crumpled the head gasket!! It seems to be a good seal between the block and the head but the extension between the head and the timing cover was buggered up bad. I knew I wouldn't be able to save that so I cut it off as close to the block as I could and used lots of Permatex Ultra Blue. After I got it put together enough to fire up I noticed it leaking from one of the corners where I cut the head gasket. I'm going now to putts with it and see if it is still leaking (it most likely is) and if so I thought of taking the timing cover off again and cutting a cork gasket to mate up to the head gasket and again using a liberal amount of Permatex.
I really don't want to take the head off because it seems to be a good seal between the head and the block and I dont have very much money, I'm just finishing school and I'm broke for probably another month until I can get back to work and I know that if I start something like that there is going to be a million things go wrong and I just can't deal with that right now.
Do you guys have any suggestions or ideas?
I really don't want to take the head off because it seems to be a good seal between the head and the block and I dont have very much money, I'm just finishing school and I'm broke for probably another month until I can get back to work and I know that if I start something like that there is going to be a million things go wrong and I just can't deal with that right now.
Do you guys have any suggestions or ideas?
just did a HG job on a 22r-e, then discovered after getting it running great, that the timing cover had timing chain bites leaking water into my oil pan.
so upon replacement, the new cover would not fit, and trying to fit it chewed the nice OEM head gasket I just put on. I try to not halfass anything ever, but at this point if I can avoid buying another head gasket and putting more time which i don't have into this vehicle, i'm going to do it. so my question is, if i cut this part off am I playing with fire? I have a tube of toyota FIPG which I swear is like The Right Stuff combined with JB Weld... it's not meant to come off *ever*. I'm worried the gap may be too large to fill though. I don't want an oil leak but I also don't want to waste a lot of time and money if I can get similar results by cutting corners.. pun intended.
01-07-2011, 09:26 AM
#213
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Hello,
I ran across this thread hoping that it would help in the job I am about to undertake!
I rolled off the freeway yesterday, noticed I was idling pretty rough waiting on the light. Came out of the light smoothed out and was back to rolling as normal for the next couple of mile to my destination.
Thats when I started seeing the whitesmoke and the smell of coolant from the exhaust.
My first conclusion HEADGASKET
A little background..... I am the original owner of this 94 well maintained low mileage (127k) Just had a timing chain replaced at less than 20k....
I inspected the stick and cap for signs of coolant in the oil with none to be found.
Any input would be greatly appreciated as well as some links to good photos of the job at hand.
Thank You in advance
Steve
I forgot to mention that I had no indication of it overheating or loss of oil pressure indicted by the gauges.
I ran across this thread hoping that it would help in the job I am about to undertake!
I rolled off the freeway yesterday, noticed I was idling pretty rough waiting on the light. Came out of the light smoothed out and was back to rolling as normal for the next couple of mile to my destination.
Thats when I started seeing the whitesmoke and the smell of coolant from the exhaust.
My first conclusion HEADGASKET
A little background..... I am the original owner of this 94 well maintained low mileage (127k) Just had a timing chain replaced at less than 20k....
I inspected the stick and cap for signs of coolant in the oil with none to be found.
Any input would be greatly appreciated as well as some links to good photos of the job at hand.
Thank You in advance
Steve
I forgot to mention that I had no indication of it overheating or loss of oil pressure indicted by the gauges.
Last edited by 2fast4uzx14; 01-07-2011 at 09:38 AM. Reason: Sorry I forgot to mention I am a newbie and sometimes mechanically challenged....lol
01-07-2011, 09:58 AM
#215
Registered User
Most likely yours went the way of mine...Your HG went on the exhaust side, mine was on #3. Lost a ton of coolant, no milk shake oil mess, just blowing out the exhaust...
This thread is really good...tons of info here. You can also take a gander at this one as well. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-again-215101/
Mine isn't nearly as purdy as 92's though...
This thread is really good...tons of info here. You can also take a gander at this one as well. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-again-215101/
Mine isn't nearly as purdy as 92's though...
01-07-2011, 10:07 AM
#216
Registered User
Just noticed how many images are missing on this.
Check these out.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cement-212688/
This is the non-condensed version. If you make it through this read I'll give you a cookie!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...thread-188472/
Check these out.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cement-212688/
This is the non-condensed version. If you make it through this read I'll give you a cookie!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...thread-188472/
01-07-2011, 10:55 AM
#217
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2fast... I just got done replacing my headgasket last week. Nothing in the oil, no smell, no overheating. I always check my fluids on the weekend and seen I was low on coolant. Checked again 2 days later. Same thing. Had it for 6 months and dont know the history of it, but one of my head bolts was loose enough I could get it with my fingers. Leaked on #2 exhaust side. I would run your test. Sorry, it isnt looking good, but its not a bad job. If you do get into replacing it. Send your head to a machine shop. It cost me $36 to have it checked out. Dont want to put it in and find you have a warped head.
01-07-2011, 11:32 AM
#218
Registered User
Please get the head checked. I didn't the first time around and the HG went again after 20K so I had to do it again. Only I replaced the head with the Street R/V from engngldr and since your in there might as well toss a cam in. It'll make a difference. I used the 268 I know some other folks use the 261, for what I use the truck for I should have used the 261 (more on the lower end the 268 is more mid) either one will really help you out. All depends on what you do with it.
03-10-2017, 12:44 AM
#219
I'd like to see the photos... 
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