twidget00

I just replace the head gasket on my 90 puickup and got it all back together but it won't run for more than a minute. I also changed the spark plugs and recently the fuel filter. When I try the throttle it bogs like it's getting too much air or not enough fuel. All of the vacuum lines are routed correctly. My dad was helping me and thinks its the timing but it sounds more like some kind of fuel problem. It was leaking a little bit at the fuel filter but we got it down to a slow drip. When removing the distributor we turned it to tdc and marked the timing chain before pulling the camshaft. Is there something I could have missed? This is my only vehicle and I need to figure this out quick.

scope103

Well, IF it's a timing issue, you have to check it. A timing light is about $20, and you have to have one anyway if you're anywhere near a head gasket replacement.

But "runs for no more than a minute" could be the VAF/COR circuit. You DO have the induction system all hooked up, don't you? If so, you can easily check for this by jumpering FP to B+ in diagnostic. This will switch on the fuel pump with key-on, bypassing VAF-COR. If it runs then, you've found your problem.

A fuel leak "down to a slow drip" can still incinerate you. Fix it.

twidget00

Ok so fuel leak stopped I am almost positive I narrowed it down to the maf, when removing the plug my dad took out the screws instead of just that clip.I picked up a used one so fingers crossed. Thanks for the help I will update after I try it.

Pick up man

You might want to turn your distributor cap if it is a timing problem...you never know

twidget00

We tried the distributor cap it was the mass air sensor got it running now we just need to adjust the timing. Glad I found this forum lol.

scope103

Not quite; you have "Volume Air Sensor" (VAF). It works on a different physical principal. Not that you care, but using the right words to describe the components will help in the long run.

For that matter, based on your symptoms it was probably the Fuel Control aspect of the VAF that was your problem. If the proximity switch inside the VAF was the problem then replacing the VAF is probably the way to go. But without testing the VAF, you may have just re-made the connection by removing and replacing the connector; you may not have needed a replacement VAF.