kdevine321

Howdy, I'm looking for some suggestions on how to diagnose/solve an engine vibration issue I'm dealing with post Timing Chain replacement. I've tried to thoroughly rule out many of the usual culprits to nail this one down but I'm finally at my wits end of knowledge so asking help.

Here's the scenerio:
Just finished installing a timing chain kit w/water pump, oil pump, steel guide, new injectors, ball joints, shocks, complete steering components from gearbox out, and performed valve lash adjustment. Prior to this job, the truck idled smooth, accelerated fine, had good power, and started fine. There was a bad front end/suspension looseness that cause the truck to shake violently going above 45 mph due to old ball joints and blown out shocks and all. Also, the guide was broken so I figured it'd be a good time to 'go all in' and make this thing drivable again.
Post installation, I swapped a steering vibration for an engine vibration. The truck starts fine, idles "smooth" with no backfire, but rocks a whole lot and carries this vibration all the way through all RPM's. I can feel the stick shift vibrate rapidly but tighter frequency as I drive faster.
Things I've checked to try and rule out the problem:
1. New Flamethrower Injectors: Installed these and actually cylinder #2 was misfiring so I thought this was my issue(vibration). Checked the spark plug, it was dry so check the resistance of the injector and it was out of spec. Swapped it with another new FT injector that was in spec 14ohms and misfire went away and reduced some idle/acceleration vibration but only 25%. All cylinders seem to be firing now.
2. Timing: checked and rechecked the timing. Cam and crank line up, its at 5btdc with jumper, dizzy is set 1/2 on rotator nut slide area, all cylinders hold a steady pulse with the timing light on them and are perfectly in place.
3. Vacuum leaks: None, checked and rechecked this with propane, starter fluid, and all. I don't think vacuum would be an issue at 4rpms merging onto the highway anyway.
4. Fuel: New Fuel Regulator as of 2y.ago as well as fuel pump/sending unit/filter. It seems to be getting fuel but I don't know how to really check. But, keep in mind, this engine idled smooth and ran smooth prior to my job.
5. Cam: Nothing changed post timing chain job so don't know why this would matter, it looked good when I checked it during the lash job.
6. Valve lash: Did the job according to specs that vid on youtube with the white 22re in the parking garage and my fsm.
7. Motor mounts: never touched them during all the installs, don't see why they'd change in 4 weeks sitting in my garage.
8. Compression: 140, 145, 143, 148 right before valve lash and start of timing job.

So, if you got any ideas on what I need to do next I'd greatly appreciate it!! I'm moving from KY to NC for a new job in 4 weeks so I REALLY want to get this thing running confidently so I don't break down and miss work as a 'new guy'. THANKS!!

t100 noob

best bet... sell it to me or se tit on fire, that money pits gonna fill up sometime soon, no but on a serious note,
if you have 4wheel drive, check the cv axels,
if you have automatic hubs and 4wheel drive, swap ot the front for aisin manual hubs
if youve been hard on it, check the front end alignment most shops charge like 90$
get your tires balanced and or rotate them
or again just set that thing on fire and start a new project.

kdevine321

Dude, you have no idea how close I am to driving this thing off a cliff. I just keep having hope that this "one more fix" will solve my issues and make this thing dependable. I've learned alot throughout the last 4 but I guess just not enough. If I can't fix this thing in two weeks, then its getting traded for a Kia. At that point my tail will be between my legs, but at least ill have working Air Conditioning in NC. But for real, what else am I missing? It developed a bad vibration and stumble on acceleration with 30% less overall power after installs. Racking my brain here.

t100 noob

how close are you to jacksonville? im fairly certain its your front hubs, rotors, or cv axels

kdevine321

Moving to Charlotte. It idles rough and continues with the vibration on acceleration even through flooring it. When coasting in nuetral it rolls smooth but I can feel the engine rocking on the mounts. My hubs are good and my cv axles aren't locked in to the drivetrain. Its not a drivetrain issue. Its a manual and shifts smooth as butter as new clutch right before I bought it.

t100 noob

idk then man.. checked your brakes? are your rotors super warped or anything haha. just throwing out the small posibilities.. mud in your rims? throwing the balance off... are your tires balanced right?

kdevine321

it was the injectors not firing. Completely dead cylinders. I've never had a mis-fire and wasn't totally confident diagnosing as such. Then I swapped back in my oem's and she's purrs like a kitten. Apparently I drove 100 last week on 2 cylinders. But like I said before t100, it was shaking on idle so it wasn't anything to do with drivetrain, wheels, or such. Thanks.