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22r w/NO BARK -- Gears or Bolt-on's?

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Old 11-21-2009, 10:08 PM
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22r w/NO BARK -- Gears or Bolt-on's?

1st off, LOVE THIS SITE! Been lurking the last couple weeks... tons of info on here, embarrassed to say how many hours I spent reading 92 TOY SLOOOOOW build up... enjoy Lumpy and Olharleyguy's insight.

My '86 with a 22r/5 spd/4WD needs more power! I've been driving it since '92 and put 31 x 10.50's on it in '93. I know it's just a 4 cyl but I'd like to at least have the ABILITY to get a speeding ticket on the highway!

I've done several searches and found out some guys have noticed gains from re-gearing. Used this site http://www.brian894x4.com/Gearratiosanddiffs.html to figure out I have 4.11's (original owner) from the factory. Some have gone with 4.56 and others 4.88 with the 31's. My question is which gears would I get the most bang for my buck with? I'm not much of an Off-Roader, just would like to be quicker from the start and have more acceleration on the highway.

If gearing is not the best way to go, I've also looked into getting some bolt-ons... header, cat, exhaust system, K & N w/Weber carb.

Any suggestions??? Can't afford to do it all but have a little saved up.

Thanks for helping the newbie...
Old 11-21-2009, 10:20 PM
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When you added the 31'' tires you lost alot right there, and the only way to get the power back that you lost is to regear, i would go with 4.88 gears, they will help out alot, next would be a header and complete new exhaust 2'' or 2 1/4'' in size. The gears and exhaust will help alot, but if you want to spend more money then you can buy a cam. A 22RE will never be a power house, but every little bit helps.

Last edited by myyota; 11-21-2009 at 10:22 PM.
Old 11-21-2009, 10:30 PM
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Thanks myyota! I checked with a shop in town and the guy said it would be $1200 to do both front and back. He uses Yukon gears. Does that sound about right?

What kind of gains should I expect? Right now I barely reach 65 mph on the highway that is if my speedometer is correct. Was driving on the highway next to a buddy the other day and mine was 5 mph slow? If I re-gear will that correct my speedometer and odometer?
Old 11-21-2009, 11:02 PM
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it IS a 23/24 year old vehicle with a 96 hp rated motor at the crank

Giver her a tune-up, regear and you should be golden
Old 11-21-2009, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by toyota4x4907
it IS a 23/24 year old vehicle with a 96 hp rated motor at the crank

Giver her a tune-up, regear and you should be golden
Thanks! Tuned it up/Carb rebuild/new hoses -- runs strong, just looking for a little more pep. You think 4.56 or 4.88?
Old 11-21-2009, 11:24 PM
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4.88s, so you can run 33s later on if you want. Your hwy mpg will be a little higher, but marginally.
Old 11-22-2009, 12:01 AM
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The free flowing exhaust is definitely a good thing, 2 1/4 with a high flow muffler sounds good and frees up some power. Don't get a weber carb though, they are finicky and not worth it IMO. 2Gnarly just did a stacked air filter mod on his 22R, looks like a great idea to me
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...42/index3.html
Old 11-22-2009, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by toyota4x4907
4.88s, so you can run 33s later on if you want. Your hwy mpg will be a little higher, but marginally.
Think the gears run around $200ish? Should the labor really cost $1000? Guy says he's done a lot of work on late '80's Toyota's and it should only take him a day. Wish I could do this one myself...
Old 11-22-2009, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Yotapowa
The free flowing exhaust is definitely a good thing, 2 1/4 with a high flow muffler sounds good and frees up some power. Don't get a weber carb though, they are finicky and not worth it IMO. 2Gnarly just did a stacked air filter mod on his 22R, looks like a great idea to me
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...42/index3.html
Wow! Glad he had the picture. Don't know much about Carb's just read Weber's were pretty good? 32/36 or a 38? You must have run into some problems with them?
Old 11-22-2009, 12:58 AM
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looks like i nice truck in your avatar! you should regear to 4.88's and grab a cam, header, and intake. thats what i am doing and from what i hear it will wake the motor up alot. oyah welcome to yotatech!
Old 11-22-2009, 01:23 AM
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I've never used a weber, It just seems to me that the general consensus on this site is that the best carb for the 22R is teh Aisin one from the factory, they are very reliable and perform well.
Old 11-22-2009, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 91_TOYOTA_4x4
looks like i nice truck in your avatar! you should regear to 4.88's and grab a cam, header, and intake. thats what i am doing and from what i hear it will wake the motor up alot. oyah welcome to yotatech!
Thanks! Lots of bodywork and paint in the late 90's and now the rust is coming back...

Please post when you do your gears, cam, headers and intake. I'm looking at doing most of the same stuff and was wondering how much of a performace increase I will really notice. Yukon gears, no cam plans, LC header and K & N intake. You?

Why the 4.88's over 4.56's?
Old 11-22-2009, 11:04 PM
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rust lol never goes away
yah i will post when i do all that stuff.

i want 4.88's because i want 33's until sas but i have too wait untill my 31's wear out.
4.56's are perfect with 31's but if you ever plan for 33's the 4.88's are your best shot so thats why i want 4.88's.
Old 11-22-2009, 11:15 PM
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Definatly go with the 4.88's. You can save yourself some money and take the thirdmembers out yourself and take them into the driveline shop. Shop around. You should be able to find someone to do your gears for alot cheaper.

I wouldn't trade my weber for anything. Big increase in power, and fuel mileage. They are fineky sometimes but are also very simple to tune and understand. Add a header and exhuast along with a weber and you will have plenty of power. Personally I would go with a weber and header long before I regeared.
Old 11-22-2009, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by neilan
Definatly go with the 4.88's. You can save yourself some money and take the thirdmembers out yourself and take them into the driveline shop. Shop around. You should be able to find someone to do your gears for alot cheaper.

I wouldn't trade my weber for anything. Big increase in power, and fuel mileage. They are fineky sometimes but are also very simple to tune and understand. Add a header and exhuast along with a weber and you will have plenty of power. Personally I would go with a weber and header long before I regeared.
Thanks neilan! Smaller town with not many drive line places around. Also, the guy I've been talking to owned and worked on several late 80's Toyota's.

I keep going back and forth on the regearing and bolt-on's. Was told that I wouldn't notice much of a gain if I did the Carb & bolt-on's without regearing? Keep in mind- more of a DD than Off-Roader...

You like the 32/36 better or 38? Is it necessary to get a new downdraft intake manifold with a new Carb?
Old 11-23-2009, 04:36 AM
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(2) 4.88 R&Ps $300
(2) Install kits $200
(2) Solid pinio spacers $25

Bench install per diff should be around $150 for someone who knows what they are doing. $1K is robbery.

Old 11-23-2009, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
(2) 4.88 R&Ps $300
(2) Install kits $200
(2) Solid pinio spacers $25

Bench install per diff should be around $150 for someone who knows what they are doing. $1K is robbery.

Thanks! So $800ish then? Want it done right the 1st time.
Old 11-23-2009, 10:24 PM
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Anyone else have any feedback on the price to re-gear? I called a couple more places today and didn't have much luck finding anyone that does it, waiting on a bid from 1 more place. $1200 sounds like it way to much... haven't done this before, just don't want/can't afford to get screwed!
Old 11-28-2009, 09:38 AM
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Does an assembled 3rd member include everything I need to regear?
Old 11-28-2009, 09:59 AM
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86 was that a drive it in drive it out install price.


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