2 inch suspension lift. Somthing needs to be done!
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2 inch suspension lift. Somthing needs to be done!
There are alot of you out there including myself that want a small lift for their older pickups and 4 runners. My ? is why no one makes them i mean how hard would it be. I wish i knew someone in the industry so i could recommend to the their design board that this is something that needs to be made. Just wanted to get everyones opinion on this and see if it would get recognized by the right person.
Thanks, Clint
Thanks, Clint
#2
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2" lifts are made.
For 2", you can use ball joint spacers up front:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ntSpacer.shtml
And in back, a 2" lift spring (like OME), an add-a-leaf (like the Rancho Soft-Ride AAL kit), or longr spring shackles:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shackles.shtml#FAQ4
For 2", you can use ball joint spacers up front:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ntSpacer.shtml
And in back, a 2" lift spring (like OME), an add-a-leaf (like the Rancho Soft-Ride AAL kit), or longr spring shackles:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shackles.shtml#FAQ4
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We' ll I have thought about this but i am still a little gun shy about the re alignment thing and the cv joint wear and tear. But what i thought about doing is using your 1 inch bj spacers and 1 inch differential drop bracket and then the angles would be back in check or would this even work?
#4
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For 2" your CV angles should be OK. Manual hubs would be a better investment than a diff drop IMHO.
No matter what lift you put on, you'll need a QUALITY alignment after.
Or you could do a body lift from Roger.
No matter what lift you put on, you'll need a QUALITY alignment after.
Or you could do a body lift from Roger.
#5
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We' ll I have thought about this but i am still a little gun shy about the re alignment thing and the cv joint wear and tear. But what i thought about doing is using your 1 inch bj spacers and 1 inch differential drop bracket and then the angles would be back in check or would this even work?
Yep, IFS will require an alignment after any sort of lift, even cranking up the torsion bars. CV joint wear can be minimized w/ manual locking hubs, leave them unlocked and you have no CV joint wear. The diff drop kit can help reduce the CV joint angles, if needed. With the 1.5" spacers, you can adjust the ride height up or down to meet your needs.
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So even without the diff drop it will still be ok on the cv angles. I am really leaning towards doing the 1 inch bj spacers in front and 1.5 inches of lift in the rear. I kinda want to run 32x 11.50 s one day but would like the look of the extra inch a half or 2 inches of lift. I don't want a body lift. Whats your opinions?
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So even without the diff drop it will still be ok on the cv angles. I am really leaning towards doing the 1 inch bj spacers in front and 1.5 inches of lift in the rear. I kinda want to run 32x 11.50 s one day but would like the look of the extra inch a half or 2 inches of lift. I don't want a body lift. Whats your opinions?
Frank
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I would rather just not lift at all. You can run a 31x10.50, 32x11.50, or 33x10.50 without lift and minimal (if any) rubbing issues on or offroad. I have been extremely pleased with running stock suspension on 33x10.50s.
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You can run 32x11.5 on stock suspension. I have been running them for the past 2 years with a tbar crank and have had no problems. Just dont leave your hubs locked when running high speeds.
#13
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Also consider that increased clearance between the front wheels lessens the number of times and severity your crossmember hits rocks, etc... The added compression travel is also easier on the truck overall when absorbing impacts.
One downside to cranked torsion bars or spacers is increased force on the idler arm. An idler arm brace is a good idea with or without lift if you plan to do more slow speed crawling type of wheeling.
I'm not lifting my truck nearly as high as I did the last one but since installing the front and rear spacers I enjoy how little the truck bottoms out even when going through dips on the street.
Frank
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I wouldn't even worry about my Cv's unless I kept my hubs locked in all the time,otherwise your not even putting any stress on them.
The only time I have my front hubs locked in is when I' 4wheelin'
If you leave them locked in all the time it is less gas mpg,and more wear on the vehicle. Hope this helps.
The only time I have my front hubs locked in is when I' 4wheelin'
If you leave them locked in all the time it is less gas mpg,and more wear on the vehicle. Hope this helps.
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Frank
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Old Man Emu makes one that's 1.75 and 2.0. Go to http://www.rocky-road.com/ they have the cheepest I've seen
#19
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I have the Downey 1.5" HD coils and love them. My 4Runner got nearly 3" of lift at the hitch out of the coils because the stock ones had sagged so badly. Remember that you'll also probably want new shocks to go along with the spacers/springs.
My 0.02
Last edited by mastacox; 03-13-2007 at 11:51 AM.
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Check my signature: I am currently running 4Crawler 1.5" BJ spacers with slightly cranked t-bars for about 2" of lift. In the back I have 1.5" lift shackles and an add-a-leaf for about 2" of lift. I have PLENTY of room for 33" tires, although am currently on 31s.
I haven't had any major CV issues, although I must say that recently my dad used the truck and apparently ripped the inner boot (NO problem/damage with the actual joint). This is the first problem I've had since last year when i put this lift on. i have never had overextension problems while using the 4x4. Note that i do have manual hubs, which greatly reduces wear.