j2the-e

No I haven't. But I'm looking at my EWD and its not possible to fry anything with this test. The latch switch is a simple 2 way open, close switch. Pin 1 is always ground and pin 3 should have power when operating the window switch if you'd rather use a DVOM. And jumping pin 1 to pin 2 should turn on the back door warning light.
Limit switch is unrelated as its only function is to prevent the defroster from turning on when the window isn't all the way up.

stanz

iTrader: (1)

I'll have to try it in the morning. From your description it does not sound like the window limit switch could/should have damaged the latch.

stanz

iTrader: (1)

I met a guy today that was able to sell me all of the tailgate internals - regulator and all switches. I hooked up the latch he sold me and the back door light went off and the window relay started clicking but still had no movement (the window is already up).

I disconnected the motor harness and hit it with a test light. I now have current when I depress the up switch (but the window is already up). I do not have current when I depress any of the down switches.

I'm now thinking perhaps I have a broken wire somewhere. Is there anything else that would allow the window to go up but not down?

j2the-e

When you used the test light, did you put one lead to ground, or did you put both leads to the connector? It uses the same wires to the motor to control up and down. Just reverses the current flow using 2 different relays within the rear window relay box. 1 relay energizes when going up. And the other relay energizes when going down. The only common variable between the 2 down switches is the relay.

stanz

iTrader: (1)

I put the light to ground and tested each terminal separately. I knew that the polarity changes with the up/down buttons so I was expecting the othe side to light up when I hit the down button

j2the-e

Looks like you did it the right way. I dont see any links between the 2 window switches other than the relay box

stanz

iTrader: (1)

I've got nice relay click when I hit the down buttons so I know the relay is good.

j2the-e

Did you check for ground at the motor while pushing the up button? That wire also provides power when pushing the down button

j2the-e

And just because a relay is clicking, doesn't always mean its good. The contacts can become corroded internally on the switched side of the relay.

stanz

iTrader: (1)

The relays are less than a week old. I just replaced all of them on the board.

stanz

iTrader: (1)

Ground at the motor? Not sure what you mean? There are only two wires going to the motor, and they switch polarity based on the up or down. Is that what you're referring to?

If so, I tested both sides for current with the switches going in both directions. I confirmed that one pin responded to the up button, the other pin did not respond at all.

j2the-e

You said you tested it for power using a test light hooked to a body ground. That doesn't check the grounding side of the circuit. The same wire that should have power when pressing "down" should be grounded when pushing "up."

stanz

iTrader: (1)

Great point. Thanks! I didn't test for that. The rig is now at a mechanic shop for a new timing chain, p/s pump, master cylinder, etc. I just had a body seam failure too (major leak). Chasing too many demons at once.

I had to farm out some of the work so I can focus on other things for the holiday. I'll pick this thread back up next week when I get the truck back.

stanz

iTrader: (1)

Fixed! The verdict is that I fried both the ds tailgate latch and some thing(s) other than the relays in the relay box. Even with the new tailgate latch, I was still having issues. I picked up a confirmed working relay box off Craigslist and everything started working again! Finally!

Thanks all for your input!

stanz

iTrader: (1)

I can't believe this is happening to me... I'm getting divorced and trying to move my stuff out of my house... I just did a run to the storage unit and the window was working fine. Got home, it doesn't work and there's no relay click.

The rear wiper still works and disconnecting the wiper wire harness to the canopy didn't solve it either. I have all of my trim back on and I need to keep moving. Ugh!

Other than the canopy top switch and the rear window lock button (center console) all other parts in the system have been replaced. Can someone please tell me how to jump the rear window lock switch to test that?

Thanks!!

Toenail619

iTrader: (1)

I feel your pain. My rig came with no working rear window I tried replacing everything but the wiring harness (which I may do through 4crawlers website.

Heres what I tried:
-1 replaced relay box
-zip tied down the bolt/top is on sensor (located by rear cargo light)
-Tried a friends top to see if wiper sensor working
-Tried friends tailgate
-Grounded the front switch wire as Terry did to bypass all safety switches.

Non of this worked.....

So Thakfully my local mechanic has delt with this a lot and bypassed the whole system with an aftermarket toggel switch.

He routed direct power from the battery to the switch and then tapped into these wires (See below) on the power window regulator box to the switch to control the window.

Sorry for the crummy pics:


He tapped the bigger Blue wire with the black stripe and the bigger blue wire with the yellow stripe in the top of the photo.

Pros:
Window works!
Cons:
It works all the time with the top on or off tail gate down or up which could lead to breaking it.

Also I hate not being able to open it from the back with key.

Hope this helps

stanz

iTrader: (1)

Thanks but I'm a stickler for keeping this kind of stuff stock. I want all switches working as they should.

smithyboy69

Did you ever fix it? I'm having the exact same issue, im going to replace the latch tomorrow to see what happens.

stanz

iTrader: (1)

Yes. I had a broken wire at the switch in the center console. It killed everything.