stanz

iTrader: (1)

Ok. So last year I replaced all four relays in the control box and my rear window and wiper have been working flawlessly.

Since I got my 4Runner, the rear defroster grid has never worked but it has always had juice going to tabs on the window frame. Today I dug in and tried out some of that paint on grid repair. I was trying to be clever and trick control box into thinking the window was up to allow me to work on it with half down and have the defroster on.

That's when I got into trouble...

To do that, I removed the rear window limit switch without unplugging it. It's only got one wire going into it and it grounds through it's mount. I heard the relay freaking out was the connection got loose on the limit switch.

From that point my rear window switches went dead, but my rear wiper and everything else in the vehicle still work.

I tested the limit switch with an ohm meter and it appears to have resistance when closed.

I also pulled the relay box and everything looks nice and clean. No burned solder joints.

Electrical diagnostics are a weakness of mine.

Also, front windows work fine - I do not have the window lock on. Rear window does not work from either interior switch or from the key.

Is there a way to test the relays? Other thoughts?

Also, there are 4 relays in the box. Does anyone know which does which? If I have to replace, I prefer to replace only the ones that control the window (vs. the wiper).

Thanks!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Here is some info.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CommonProblems

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l#post51400485

http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...ay-repair.html

j2the-e

There are 2 window locks. One for the doors and one for the rear. Have you checked the one for the rear?

j2the-e

Never mind this idea. My rear window still works from the key when its locked. Seems kinda pointless...

brianh699

Did you check the circuit breaker? Drivers side kick panel there's one for power windows one for rear window.

stanz

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Are the circuit breakers resettable?

stanz

iTrader: (1)

Updates:

1) Confirmed all fuses are intact and good - both in cab and under hood.

2) Tried to see if the circuit breaker were able to be reset by pushing a nail through the hole in the lid. I never really found anything that gave a positive click. Retested after trying. No change.

3) Removed circuit breaker and put in a jumper wire. No change. Can't say that the breaker is good, but I can say that I've eliminated that.

I ordered new relays again today so I have them either way. I had to order a minimum of 10, so if others need a few, I'll be happy to share.

Anything else I'm missing?

brianh699

Have you checked other limit switches, ie top switch, wiper park switch.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

There is always a way to test relays you energize the coil and see if you have continuity on the contacts that should be closed and none on the ones that should be open.

A hint if you are working on your hatch window to jumper the motor just disconnect the motor plug so much easier. That way all the other safeties and relays are out of the circuit

On your safety switch it is possible you have a bad ground with the hatch in the down position.

You are talking about the one that attaches to the left side latch??:jessica:

stanz

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Makes sense.


I'm pretty sure the top switch is ok since the wiper works. Where is the wiper park switch located?

I'm pretty much at my limit with this truck at this point. I've been going for a solid year straight, I've made alot of progress but I'm worn out. I realize that I brought this issue onto myself, but it's really bad timing and without a garage and non-stop rain, I just don't know when I'm going to be able to fix this myself and having no access to the trunk is a major issue for me.

Is there anyone out there local to Portland with a garage interested in volunteering to help me troubleshoot this further?

stanz

iTrader: (1)

Ok. All 4 relays have been replaced and still no change. I checked and there are no broken wires anywhere within the tailgate.

Can someone please tell me how I go about testing each of these switches:
1) ds tailgate latch
2) door lock switch (in tailgate)
3) window limit switch (in tailgate)
4) wiper park switch

I'm really in a jam. I need my tailgate usable again. Please help!

stanz

iTrader: (1)

I just read in someone else's post that they were able to bypass a bad cover top switch by placing a jumper in the plug. I just tried that and that also did not help.

Please keep them coming.

stanz

iTrader: (1)

I also just found in another post that disconnecting the wiper harness at the the base of the canopy takes the wiper limit switch out of the equation. I tested that. Still no power to the window.

That leaves #'s 1 - 3.

j2the-e

Is the window up or down? My old 87 I had to push the left side of the tailgate pretty hard to get it to fully latch and for the widow to work.

stanz

iTrader: (1)

Window is up. I had no issues with the latch prior and did give it a good push while testing things out. Thx

stanz

iTrader: (1)

One more, what I believe to be a very important clue... the 'back door' light is constantly on. I thought that this was because I had been driving around with the rear relay box in. Now that the box is in, the light is still on constantly. Does this narrow it down to #1 & #2?

j2the-e

I think that would narrow it down to the latch switch. The back door light will come on when the tailgate is up and un-locked or when the tailgate is open, locked or unlocked. If the light is on because of the lock switch, the window should still operate because the lock will lock automatically when the window is rolled up.

stanz

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Last night I pulled the plug on the latch and hit all three wire with a test light. I couldn't find one with current. How do I test it to confirm? I really don't want to start throwing parts at this.

j2the-e

Jumper pin 1 to pin 3, push the button, and see if the window works. Pin 1 is always ground. Pin 3 is power when the button is pushed. At least thats how it is in my 89 wiring diagram

stanz

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the tip. Have you actually done this before? I want to be careful not to damage anything else. This all started when I disconnected the window limit switch. I can't believe that it could have fried the latch.